Thanks
. It's actually the exact same exhaust I've been running since last year, just without any interior it get's picked up in the camera a heck of a lot louder lol
D Prepared Miata Build
- Thread starter aMaff
- Start date
Thanks
. It's actually the exact same exhaust I've been running since last year, just without any interior it get's picked up in the camera a heck of a lot louder lolA bit. I'm at a bit of a crossroads regarding that because I've got a couple options:
1. Stick with the 4.3:1 rear end. With as little power as I'm making, it keeps us in the power band and doesn't bog. The miata's transmission allows pretty quick 2-3 shifts so it's not a huge deal, but more time on the power would be nicer.
2. Change to a 4.1:1 rear end. Longer gearing, but on the flipside we'll spend more time out of ye olde power band.
I'll have to run through some numbers to see if we can gain enough MPH in 2nd gear to make it worth running the 4.1:1.
1. Stick with the 4.3:1 rear end. With as little power as I'm making, it keeps us in the power band and doesn't bog. The miata's transmission allows pretty quick 2-3 shifts so it's not a huge deal, but more time on the power would be nicer.
2. Change to a 4.1:1 rear end. Longer gearing, but on the flipside we'll spend more time out of ye olde power band.
I'll have to run through some numbers to see if we can gain enough MPH in 2nd gear to make it worth running the 4.1:1.
Numbahs
Hokay, so here are the numbers using a 20.1" tire (couldn't get one 20" exactly in my gearing calculator lol)
7200 RPM rev-limit
4.3:1
=====
1st: 31.7
2nd: 53.0
3rd: 75.1
4.1:1
=====
1st: 33.2
2nd: 55.6
3rd: 78.8
So, at the stock rev limit, I'm only gaining 2.6 mph in 2nd gear. I think we'll still be hitting the limiter.
BUT, after the Megasquirt install:
7800 RPM rev-limit
4.3:1
=====
1st: 34.3
2nd: 57.4
3rd: 81.4
4.1:1
=====
1st: 36.0
2nd: 60.2
3rd: 85.3
we're picking up 4.5 mph with the 4.3 just bumping the rev-limiter up. Obviously, 7.2 mph if we go w/ a 4.1:1.
I think I'm going to stick with the 4.3:1 for the time being until the megasquirt is installed. Once we have some power over where the rev-limiter is and run a few events to see if we're still getting in the limiter at most events. Let's face it, this was a pretty fast, open course this weekend, not a whole lot of transition, lots of throttle.
Hokay, so here are the numbers using a 20.1" tire (couldn't get one 20" exactly in my gearing calculator lol)
7200 RPM rev-limit
4.3:1
=====
1st: 31.7
2nd: 53.0
3rd: 75.1
4.1:1
=====
1st: 33.2
2nd: 55.6
3rd: 78.8
So, at the stock rev limit, I'm only gaining 2.6 mph in 2nd gear. I think we'll still be hitting the limiter.
BUT, after the Megasquirt install:
7800 RPM rev-limit
4.3:1
=====
1st: 34.3
2nd: 57.4
3rd: 81.4
4.1:1
=====
1st: 36.0
2nd: 60.2
3rd: 85.3
we're picking up 4.5 mph with the 4.3 just bumping the rev-limiter up. Obviously, 7.2 mph if we go w/ a 4.1:1.
I think I'm going to stick with the 4.3:1 for the time being until the megasquirt is installed. Once we have some power over where the rev-limiter is and run a few events to see if we're still getting in the limiter at most events. Let's face it, this was a pretty fast, open course this weekend, not a whole lot of transition, lots of throttle.
atlantamx3
Member
Thanks for the pics Perry. You've made the car look a helluva lot nicer than it actually is lol (for reference, see the video's Tom Gorman posted lol). Nice job
EDIT: Luke: Yeah, I know right? But I'd have to take a 75 lb weight hit to run the wheels he's running. And they've only got 1/2" more rubber than I do (though it is a straight walled slick, so they've got a bit more response from the tire than we do).
EDIT #2: I was messing around with the suspension last night to make sure everything was still in good shape and I found a trashed lower ball joint. Did the push/pull wheel bearing test and the wheel had like an inch of play... uh... no wheel bearing I've ever seen has that much movement lol. So I stuck my head under the car thinking it was probably a bad tie rod end, but the lower front driver's side balljoint definitely has some badness going on with it. Glad it didn't break. Not sure if we blew it out this event or if I just never noticed it, but I'm just glad it didn't break on course. Time to call Mazdaspeed and have a couple new ones shipped out.
EDIT: Luke: Yeah, I know right? But I'd have to take a 75 lb weight hit to run the wheels he's running. And they've only got 1/2" more rubber than I do (though it is a straight walled slick, so they've got a bit more response from the tire than we do).
EDIT #2: I was messing around with the suspension last night to make sure everything was still in good shape and I found a trashed lower ball joint. Did the push/pull wheel bearing test and the wheel had like an inch of play... uh... no wheel bearing I've ever seen has that much movement lol. So I stuck my head under the car thinking it was probably a bad tie rod end, but the lower front driver's side balljoint definitely has some badness going on with it. Glad it didn't break. Not sure if we blew it out this event or if I just never noticed it, but I'm just glad it didn't break on course. Time to call Mazdaspeed and have a couple new ones shipped out.
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Took 36 more lbs out of the car tonight. And now, it's FINALLY starting to look like a prepared class car. It doesn't officially become a Prepared class car until it's got mismatched body panels . Also cut off the sail windows so it'll be ready to go once we're ready for the windshield to come out.
Pics:
Just need to rig up a cable latch system and I'll be ready to go
. Also cut off the sail windows so it'll be ready to go once we're ready for the windshield to come out.Pics:
Just need to rig up a cable latch system and I'll be ready to go
Front suspension's apart again... Hopefully this was just a case of really old ball joints that were run for a time on a Spec Miata, then on an STS car for even longer. I have new ones from Mazdaspeed should be here tomorrow, and hopefully I'll have it all back together by tomorrow night.
you need more tire:
I found my 2002's purpose in life...
bullshark524
Member
- :
- 2000 mazda protege es soon to be 2000 mazda protege klze
i read this thread and told my dad about it cuz he has a miata and he asked me a good question. if you try to get it street legal how are you goin to get around the fact that you heve no headlights?
1st off: that's not going to happen. No time w/ 2 kids on the way.
2nd off: once the headlight covers go back on, no one but "us" would be the wiser. There's no 'safety' inspection in GA, so if I *did* want to take the time to get the emissions tested and passed, I'd have exactly no problem getting the tag renewed.
best part about GA is there is not actual inspection just need it emissions tested. Although i am sure you would get nailed at night without headlights or turn signals. I doubt though that this car will ever see the road again outside an event
bullshark524
Member
- :
- 2000 mazda protege es soon to be 2000 mazda protege klze
wasnt positive if it would be under saftey inspection but i like your build. it is the s***
Been oot and aboot for a few weeks now, but finally back to work on it:
Finally got around to ordering / picking up the parts I needed for the inner door latches. The cable was very easy to find (Home Depot / lowes hardware dept), but I wanted something fairly thin. It wasn't going to be supporting any real load, so the lighter the better. I settled on 1/16" cable. The problem there is finding cable clamps that small. Fortunately, McMaster Carr came to the rescue on that with some nice, stainless steel pieces. That said, small hardware = small fasteners, so I'm glad I had my "miniature combo wrench" set handy lol.
It's a 7/32" wrench... yeah... tiny.
attachment at the actual latch mechanism. Notice the actuator rod behind it: A set of stock outer door pulls were sourced from Mazmart and installed as well.
attachment at the 'hard point' on the door. The little oval recess was already there from the factory, so I just drilled a hole through there to feed the cable, as it was an ideal location.
View of the completed system. Basically just push any direction on the cable and it pops the latch open.
Finally got around to ordering / picking up the parts I needed for the inner door latches. The cable was very easy to find (Home Depot / lowes hardware dept), but I wanted something fairly thin. It wasn't going to be supporting any real load, so the lighter the better. I settled on 1/16" cable. The problem there is finding cable clamps that small. Fortunately, McMaster Carr came to the rescue on that with some nice, stainless steel pieces. That said, small hardware = small fasteners, so I'm glad I had my "miniature combo wrench" set handy lol.
It's a 7/32" wrench... yeah... tiny.
attachment at the actual latch mechanism. Notice the actuator rod behind it: A set of stock outer door pulls were sourced from Mazmart and installed as well.
attachment at the 'hard point' on the door. The little oval recess was already there from the factory, so I just drilled a hole through there to feed the cable, as it was an ideal location.
View of the completed system. Basically just push any direction on the cable and it pops the latch open.
Not without suffering a serious injury to the elbow. It's tucked in under what used to be the inner window "frame", so I'd have to basically go through that steel to hit the cable. The only really "easy" way to get to it is to reach across with my right hand to pull the cable, then push the door open with my left (if I'm in the driver's seat). We'll find out next weekend for sure though
In preparation for Sunday's autocross, and because I didn't want to do any work tomorrow as there is significant amounts of racing (Petit) and college football ('Bama v Florida) to be watched tomorrow, from about 11:00 tomorrow morning non stop until about 10 or 11 tomorrow night lol.
So, I got a stock gauge cluster mounted. It's actually surprisingly sturdy. I also went ahead and secured a lot of the wires we had swinging around as G-Meters for the camera (that's my story and I'm stickin' to it) at the last event:
Yeah, it's off center, but it brings the tach closer to center. And I apparently have WAY too much fuel on-board. That can be attributed to not having gauges at the last event, and putting a couple gallons in "just in case".
Also worked out a system to transport the tires that doesn't involve them being inside my truck. I don't mind the smell too much, but Jen does. And when a pregnant woman doesn't like a smell... you better not be the reason it's there hahaha
So, I got a stock gauge cluster mounted. It's actually surprisingly sturdy. I also went ahead and secured a lot of the wires we had swinging around as G-Meters for the camera (that's my story and I'm stickin' to it) at the last event:
Yeah, it's off center, but it brings the tach closer to center. And I apparently have WAY too much fuel on-board
. That can be attributed to not having gauges at the last event, and putting a couple gallons in "just in case".
Also worked out a system to transport the tires that doesn't involve them being inside my truck. I don't mind the smell too much, but Jen does. And when a pregnant woman doesn't like a smell... you better not be the reason it's there hahaha
