CX-5 2019 Car Battery Died - Immobilized Indicator

HI - We left a light on in our 2019 Mazda-CX5 and were able to get the battery charged but after recharged the two keys we have would not start the vehicle, we used logic to determine they have functional batteries with being able to remotely lock and unlock the car from inside the house. The issue we have is the push button engine start flashes amber and on the dash we see a blinking car immobilized light that is a hybrid of a car and a lock. I'm not an expert but understand how to use a search engine, is my assumption correct that the 2 keys simply need to be reprogrammed? If that is the case, is there a do it yourself solution to reprogram a key or do dealers and lock smith's have special equipment required? I posted a 15 second video that shows our issue, any feedback would be helpful explaining if this is something I can fix myself or requires a service provider. Thank you - MazdaFazda

15 Second YouTube Video Showing Our issue
 
Dead battery would not cause keys to not work. I've removed battery then reattached and the keys continue to work.
Make sure the shifter is all the way in park. If it is, try pushing it further North and hold the fob next to the start button and see if you get a green light on the Start button.

Also - are you sure the battery is charged up? Just because you can unlock the doors doesn't mean the battery has enough power to start the car.
 
Great points, this is why I posted. The battery seems to be fully charged but I could be wrong, the question market is the vehicle immobilizer light showing up, that seems to be my issue that emerged after recharging the battery and preventing the keys from starting the car. if the my FOB can unlock/lock doors remotely I assume maybe its not a programming issue?
 
When the battery is bricked you get all kinds of weird sh** on the dash.

Since you've already charged it and can't start it I'd go buy a new battery and try that first. Just make sure you can return the battery if it doesn't work.

Have not seen one post on this forum about immobilizer problems and I've been here since 2015.
 
Great, this is awesome advice, thank you it confirms my gut feeling the battery is f*** up, before spending the 150.00 USD to have someone come out here and reprogram keys, go buy a new battery that I can return if needed.
 
Have you tried using the end of the key with the Mazda logo to press the start button? That's the way to do it if the remote batt fails. 🤷‍♂️ Worth a shot
 
Thanks for the pointer, I tried that, sounds like its a way to start your car in the event you are stranded with a battery gone dad on the FOB, it did not work as well, my sense here is go to Auto Zone and buy a new battery, I confirmed they will accept return, will let you guys know if that fixes the issue, I cancelled the lock smith service call.
 
Great points, this is why I posted. The battery seems to be fully charged but I could be wrong, the question market is the vehicle immobilizer light showing up, that seems to be my issue that emerged after recharging the battery and preventing the keys from starting the car. if the my FOB can unlock/lock doors remotely I assume maybe its not a programming issue?
your battery is now dead most likely. If it got depleted and if it is the original with the car.
 
your battery is now dead most likely. If it got depleted and if it is the original with the car.
I appreciate the collective input, sounds like you guys are all saying "get a new battery first, don't waste money on getting your keys reprogrammed" - Look forward to posting an update on a new battery tomorrow.
 
First of all, no new programming is needed, most likely your fobs are fine.

When you press the fob to the Start button, does the color change at all? With either fob?

Second, you say that you charged the battery fully, how so?

Do you have a charger? What type and how did you determine that it was fully charged? Do you have a multimeter to test the battery voltage?

A fully charged battery, at rest, should read above 12.3vdc. Once the car is started the battery should read somewhere above 14vdc, if the alternator is doing its job charging the battery.
 
Keep a multi-meter around the house.
It is very useful. Costs only $10-15.
A good battery should measure about 12.5 to 12.6v.
(best case = 2.1V per cell * 6 = 12.6V)
When an old lead-acid battery is drained completely, it won't come back up fully after recharge.
 
Mission Accomplished! - Got myself to Auto Zone, not being the car nut they gave me 3 options for new batteries i went with the one the middle, brought it home took out a socket wrench switched the battery out and bam! I guess the lesson is despite your battery appearing to hold a charge it can still be the root cause for ignition failure, my dumb ass thought it was the keys appreciate the help. My next conquer is to figure out how to disable a speed restrictor on a golf cart but I'll save that for another forum :)
 
Keep a multi-meter around the house.
It is very useful. Costs only $10-15.
A good battery should measure about 12.5 to 12.6v.
(best case = 2.1V per cell * 6 = 12.6V)
When an old lead-acid battery is drained completely, it won't come back up fully after recharge.
thank you have a multi meter should have thought to do that, i did have external charger that was reading 12.0V
 
Mission Accomplished! - Got myself to Auto Zone, not being the car nut they gave me 3 options for new batteries i went with the one the middle, brought it home took out a socket wrench switched the battery out and bam! I guess the lesson is despite your battery appearing to hold a charge it can still be the root cause for ignition failure, my dumb ass thought it was the keys appreciate the help. My next conquer is to figure out how to disable a speed restrictor on a golf cart but I'll save that for another forum :)
Glad it worked out for you and didn't cost an arm and a leg.
 
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