CorkSport SRI & Duct Installation Tips

ScorpioGTX1

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2012 Mazda 2 GS M/T
I just finished installing the CorkSport SRI, and am so far very happy with it. It took me quite a bit longer to complete the install than I had anticipated, but I'm a pretty big noob when it comes to working on engines, so I took my time with it to make sure I didn't screw anything up. I figured that I'd make a list of little tips for those of you who haven't installed the SRI yet that might save you a bit of time and headache.

1. I ran into a roadblock early on while trying to remove the ECU wiring cover. The retarded little screws that hold it in place (pictured below) are made of plastic, and strip extremely easy. Not only that, but if you simply try to turn them with a screwdriver, they will just rotate endlessly and not back out. That's because they're accepted by these ultra retarded plastic housings. I had to call Derrick to figure this out, and of course he was extremely helpful in telling me what to do. Apparently you need to jam a screwdriver in the space below where the screw is seated and push up, so that the screw's threads can catch on inside of the housing and back out. For some reason it seems that Mazda really doesn't want you to get in here, but I have no clue why. When reassembling everything, I threw these f***ing things out and replaced them with zip ties, which work a thousand times better.

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2. Before unscrewing the MAF sensor, I found it helpful to entirely remove the battery. Removing the foremost screw is easy with a small phillips screwdriver, but it's difficult to reach the other one, even with an L-shaped driver. I didn't want to risk stripping the screw, so removing the battery made everything much easier. It also gives you more space to work with and a nice little shelf to place your tools!

3. Use lube on the MAF sensor O ring when placing it in the CorkSport MAF. The instructions suggest doing this and there's a reason for it! Don't use lube and you risk pinching the O ring.

4. Pulling most of the stock hoses out takes a bit of muscle, but the breather hose that connects via that long black nipple [lol] is a royal pain in the ass. I suggest using a tiny flathead screwdriver to shimmy it under the hose to help break the deathgrip the hose has on the nipple.

5. Don't attach the filter to the CorkSport MAF until you're done fitting the silicone coupler to the throttle body (especially if you're also installing the duct). It takes some muscle to fit the coupler on, and it's much easier this way.

6. The instructions tell you to use the 2.75 inch clamp to connect the filter to the MAF, and the 3 inch clamp to connect the coupler to the throttle body, but it's actually the other way around.

6. Use silicone lube on the all nipples you need to connect the tiny air temperature sensor hoses to. It makes a nearly impossible task slightly less impossible.

7. I used a couple extra washers between the air duct and the bracket that attaches to the overflow reservoir for better fitment. Your mileage may vary.

I hope these little tips might help someone in the future. Overall the install wasn't too hard (even a noob), but knowing these little tips might accelerate the process.

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I'm glad you posted this. I would have liked a few of those tips when I did my install, especially tip#4. I ran into a few of the very same issues, and ended up having to bike to the store to get another 3" clamp. And those silicon hoses. Good God. I had to chew on them for a few minutes each to get them on (thanks for the tip Derrick!) since I had no silicon lube. It took me 2.5 very frustrating hours. About 20 minutes of patiently taking everything apart, and carefully making sure I put the CS parts together in the right orientation and order. 1.5 hours were spent trying to get that GERTDAMN silicon coupler onto the throttle body. It was so frickin tight in diameter I just could not seem to get it on. I also spent a solid 15 minutes rolling through ever cussword I knew, and making a few new ones along the way. Finally I got that f*cker on, and I was done 5 minutes later. It's been a dream ever since, and the difference in driving entertainment is huge. But hell, that was a tough one!
 
I finally got around to this mod tonight, minus the air duct. Actual time working on this was under an hour (in mostly 5-10 minute increments). Silicon coupler to throttle body took a little muscling, though it seemed much easier to manipulate once the MAF housing was attached to the coupler. Using a screwdriver to dilate the silicone hose tips along with some silicon lube on the silicon hose ends and plastic tubes allowed me to get them over the plastic tubes without much trouble. I was a little worried about the filter end rubbing the battery cable so I put some wiring loom over that part just for peace of mind. For those that don't have silicon lube to use, liquid dish soap (and probably hand soap too) makes a nice substitute.

Technically my intake kit was used prior to my install (though it sure didn't look it) so that may have helped a little.
 
Glad it went on smoothly for you. This is one of the best mods you can do for the car. Smooths things out and just opens the engine up a bit across the range, and it sounds great! I was also surprised that after adding the duct I could again feel a difference in pull. You'll like that one too when you get around to it...
 
I was a little worried about the filter end rubbing the battery cable so I put some wiring loom over that part just for peace of mind.

My filter touches the cable as well. I'm going to wrap that cable a bit more just as a precaution.
 
And I almost forgot...

Scorpio - Those little plastic anchor/screw fasteners that you love so much are used in just about every car I've come across. Usually holding together interior panels, carpeting, fender liners, etc. On older cars they are very challenging to deal with as the plastic is extremely brittle.
 
Installed the SRI yesterday and these tips really helped. Loving the new found power in the 2
 
Do you have our battery slid back all the way in the tray?

-Derrick

Yeah, I even unscrewed the tray and slid it back as far as possible too. The + cable isn't a problem, but the thick cable that's near the battery tray (circled in red) is where it touches a bit.

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IF you have the duct, keep an eye on it. The back-facing edge of the top of the duct that is directly over the air filter (where the CS sticker is) can cut into your battery cable due to engine movement. Mine started to do this, and cut through approximately 1/32" of the surface of the battery cable insulation, but I caught it in time and tied the cable back tighter to the battery so it no longer can touch. Prior to the duct installation I did not have contact between the battery cable and the filter, but the duct can touch the battery cable, so watch out for that.
 
Thanks for the heads up. I may just cut all those little plastic straps holding down the cable so I can get it out of the way a bit more. If engine movement turns out to be an issue, I'll just use that as an excuse to get the awr mount. Hopefully I'll be able to get the intake duct soon. I've noticed more mid-range torque and top end power so far with just the SRI, minimal change in sound over the exhaust with race-pipe.
 
...minimal change in sound over the exhaust with race-pipe.

I found that the SRI's sound tends to blend in with the exhaust. With just the stock exhaust though, there's a HUGE difference in sound. If I had to choose between either the SRI or the exhaust, I'd go for the SRI.
 
I found that the SRI's sound tends to blend in with the exhaust. With just the stock exhaust though, there's a HUGE difference in sound. If I had to choose between either the SRI or the exhaust, I'd go for the SRI.

Yep. The intake added much more sound than my exhaust. It is pleasant noise too.
 
Yep. The intake added much more sound than my exhaust. It is pleasant noise too.

I made a panty-dropping revmatch downshift the other day near some girls and gave them quite a scare, hahaha. That whooshy induction noise is almost as loud as a BOV.
 
Ha nice write up! I'm doing this install as soon as it gets here, and on top of that the Short Shift Plate so removing the battery will help install all the parts.
 
Ha nice write up! I'm doing this install as soon as it gets here, and on top of that the Short Shift Plate so removing the battery will help install all the parts.

Needlenose pliars under the factory ball will pop it right off. Otherwise frustration may ensue.
 
I just did my SRI and found it easier to put the coupler on the throttle body, and then attach the rest of the assembly to it.

Chewing the hoses and then using a large flathead to stretch the ends out a bit seemed to help quite a bit with getting them on. I couldn't get them all the way, but they're on there pretty well with most of the nozzles covered.

I moved the large battery cable bundle to below the brackets that it was originally on top of, which stopped the filter rubbing on it, but it still touches the positive battery cable. I'm gonna have to keep an eye on it and maybe wrap with something.
 
I just did my SRI and found it easier to put the coupler on the throttle body, and then attach the rest of the assembly to it.

Chewing the hoses and then using a large flathead to stretch the ends out a bit seemed to help quite a bit with getting them on. I couldn't get them all the way, but they're on there pretty well with most of the nozzles covered.

I moved the large battery cable bundle to below the brackets that it was originally on top of, which stopped the filter rubbing on it, but it still touches the positive battery cable. I'm gonna have to keep an eye on it and maybe wrap with something.

I was thinking of doing the same thing :) You should post pictures of the positive cable touching
 
I just bent that bottom bracket down which pulled the large cable away from the filter. Wire loom is protecting the positive battery cable, and it looks like if you can disconnect it from the terminal it can be routed around the other side of the large cable and out of the way.
 

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