considering getting an fc

Unarmed

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1990 Toyota Celica GT-S 1987 Dodge W100 318 now 440ci soon)
I have always liked the RX7's in particular the FC. now I am finally looking for a RX7 FC project car, but first I would like to know a few things about the rx7.
first I was wondering how this car is on the low end.
second I was wondering how it handles
third I was wondering what kinda potential does it have (sticking with a rotary engine of coarse)

if I dont end up getting an fc I am probably gonna get an old camaro or firebird to fix up...
 
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Well, I've only driven one fc (our '87 track car), and it doesn't have a whole ton in the low end, but it revs up FAST (way faster than my miata) and in its mostly stock configuration has a lot more guts than my mx-5. I thought I knew what power oversteer felt like before, but after taking the fc out on the course a couple times now that we've got it restored to almost stock condition, I realise I've got a ton to learn, since I can now start to learn how to steer with the gas pedal :D

As far as handling, even stock, the FC's chassis is sooooo much stiffer than my miata. We upgraded to some tanabe springs and kyb gas shocks, got some shock tower mount braces, and the car feels far flatter in the slaloms than my MX5. After we added the camber plates and got a decent alignment set up, the thing just had grip everywhere... feels way more nimble than my miata, despite weighing about 500 lbs heavier. (tho we're starting to work on weight reduction now :D)

As far as potential motor-wise... just depends on how much time/energy and money you want to dump into it, and if you plan on going turbo or not. If staying N/A, theres a lot of stuff you can work with... depending on how crazy you want to get. You can get a p-port/bridgeport job done to add a lot of power, switch from the stock steel to carbon apex seals (will require more frequent rebuilds, but allows the engine to rev above 8500 rpm)... you can get lightened rotors, and I've even been told you can switch to the RX8's higher compression rotors. If you don't care about emissions, you can gain a lot by upgrading the exhaust system (both weight and power wise - our car has 3 catalytic converters stock! very restrictive and heavy!)

If you want to get really nutty, the sky really is the limit... I know of at least one 3-rotor design w/a single turbo setup pushing over 1000 bhp.
 
No rotary has a lot of low RPM torque. One reason they went sequential with the turbochargers on the FDs. Not hugely experienced with the FC, but the ones I have driven were definitely a momentum car. That said, it handles way better out of the box than a Camaro/Firebird. But then I'm not a fan of live axles or mullet haircuts. ;)
If you want a straight-line car, go GM. If you value a light(er) car with good handling and IMO better looks, go FC.
 
my biggest selling points on the old camaros are tons of low end, can find them pretty cheap 3rd gen v-8 and my father rebuilt one 2nd gen from totaled 3 times, so he knows the car.

the rx-7 sounds like a better choice tho... guess I will just have to see if I can drive both cars to decide..

myself I dont really care about 1/4 mile times, or auto-x times... I just care about whether the car is fun or not....

my celica (2.2L) is fun in the turns but I want more in a project car than simply fun in the turns...

and if I get a Camaro, and it feels like I am driving a Cadillac, or I get an RX-7 and it feels like I am driving the protege, that would just flat out suck because I am looking for a sort of balance between a strait line car and a car thats good in the turns...

it doesn't have to be awesome for both, but it must be fun to drive.
 
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wow... I think I made the most edits in one post...
 
Having had an NA Miata and an FC RX-7 (at the same time) I'd have to say that unless you're crazy-tall, get an NA Miata, put a Hard Dog Roll bar in it, and go play. If you want a bit of power, get a 92-93 Miata, put the $1200 Greddy Turbo in it and go play faster.

Edit: I'm sorry. Reasons!

1. Power to weight is about the same on non-turbo FC's and 1st gen. Miatas.
2. The oldest Miatas are newer than all but the last of the FC's.
3. The Miata engine is good for 2-300K miles, a 13B with more than 100K is considered a ticking time bomb.
4. The Miata will get much better gas mileage.
5. Any mechanic can work on a Miata, rotary mechanics are hard to find.
6. You'll pay a LOT less for insurance on a Miata.

All that said, I loved 'em both, and would love to have either one back. :D
 
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You can go N/A you could S/C or you can just get a Turbo. How much power do you want? If you want low end, then get an n/a do full exhaust and intake, and strap on a s/c.
 
ive had two fcs.. both were turbos
lots of potential.. then again.. most cars are with a good bankroll
your project is intended for what application unarmed... autocross.. road course.. etc..
 
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Even the N/A have good potencial! :) The stock exhaust system holds back about 25hp alone! a header is worth 12whp alone! VDI if you don't have it is another 12whp, and stand alone (Rtek7 recommended) is another 10whp post tuning!
 
BTW the handling on the Car is amazing despite the age of the chassis, VERY stiff, rotates well, and has good grip. Even has a form of 4 wheel steering that changes camber at different G's. I love the car and I've only had it 3 months.
 
3. The Miata engine is good for 2-300K miles, a 13B with more than 100K is considered a ticking time bomb.
5. Any mechanic can work on a Miata, rotary mechanics are hard to find.
6. You'll pay a LOT less for insurance on a Miata.

an NA 13B should last longer than 100k no? i know the turbo ones require rebuilds every 100k or so, even earlier sometimes

rotaries are not hard to work on. i think people are afraid of it that's all. forums and a haynes manual is all you need

my rx7 was about 20$ / month and my friend pays around 12$ for insurance. But i have 2 cars, maybe it's so cheap because they figured i can't drive both cars at the same time? lol
 
I own an 86 n/a 5spd coupe and a 89 n/a auto vert I love both cars they are a blast of fun I would recomend them to anyone... my vert has over 150K my coupe only has 80K

both still run strong
 
ours has a few little problems recently. passenger door handle broke (apparently, after reading up on the forum, it is a common failure) and either the switch or relay for the dash lights went. we ordered the handle directly from mazda for like 60$ and my friend helped fixed the dash lights.

1st problems i had with the car in about 15 months of ownership. i think its great for a 20+yo car
 
yeah my coupe just enquired a few problems

broken passenger door handle
pass side frt caliper is locked up (time for 4 pot upgrade)
clutch is slipping (to much power with my tune)


Oh well time for the T2 swap!!
 
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