If you wan't loud get a short ram...I ran a short ram last week after I waited till I had time to pull the splash guard again. The SRI was incredibly loud and the TB wistle was too...second I put the CAI back on it was almost 30% quieter at wot. Anyone have picts of where exactly the filter sits...there is dividers(if you removed the front bumper yet) that block air from going left and right into the fenders. Only to the radiator. I dremeled my fog light delete plates and grille meshed the holes. Horn is 10% louder and cai got a lil bit louder(comfortably).
CAI is... quieter??
- Thread starter goldwing2000
- Start date
1st K&N puts out one of the best filters oth there on the market
Actually thats what K&N's marketing wants you to think. Actually their filters are actually sub-standard compared to other alternative solutions.
K&N Filters...
1) Filter less then stock paper filters.
2) Sometimes result in a performance loss
3) Are generally constructed of poor quality materials.
Holding a K&N filter in your hand (especially a cone based), you can feel how flimsy the filter is. Press on the pleats and they bend. Press on the ends and they bend. Their constructed as cheaply as possible, then have the price jacked up to make maximum profit.
Technically the best filtering media is paper, hands down, and proven in multiple tests. Cotton/oil based filters usually come in 2nd or 3rd, sometimes behind foam.
K&N likes you to believe that the filter is in some way a "restriction" and tries to prove this through varied marketing skeet all over the place.
Realistically the filter is usually the LEAST restrictive part of an intake assembly.
For example on the Mazda 6, if you flow bench the airbox with and without the filter, there is only a 6% difference in airflow.
Leave the filter in, but remove the resonator, and the airflow increases 12-15% (with filter in).
Do the tray mod, the flapper mod, and the resonator mod, and leave the filter in, and you increase airflow almost 40%.
Some options for paper cone filters are...
http://www.baldwinfilter.com/
If your looking for a cotton based oil filter thats far superior (in every way) to a K&N based, check out S&B.
http://www.sbfilters.com/home.htm
Their filters use deeper peats (better filtering surface area), larger pleats (better surface area), tighter meshes (better stability/strength), reinforced end caps (better stability/strength), and have a unique open cone for increased noise/sound, and technically airflow, but as mentioned earlier, filters aren't a restriction.
For more information on this topic, and links to tests and explanations about the true facts about K&N type filters, visit...
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?t=160&start=0
and
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
Knowledge is power, never listen to marketing!
Here's the difference between the crappy injen K&N filter, vs the S&B replacement on my Injen CAI.
Which one would you rather have filtering your air? (Note K&N filter damage)
Actually thats what K&N's marketing wants you to think. Actually their filters are actually sub-standard compared to other alternative solutions.
K&N Filters...
1) Filter less then stock paper filters.
2) Sometimes result in a performance loss
3) Are generally constructed of poor quality materials.
Holding a K&N filter in your hand (especially a cone based), you can feel how flimsy the filter is. Press on the pleats and they bend. Press on the ends and they bend. Their constructed as cheaply as possible, then have the price jacked up to make maximum profit.
Technically the best filtering media is paper, hands down, and proven in multiple tests. Cotton/oil based filters usually come in 2nd or 3rd, sometimes behind foam.
K&N likes you to believe that the filter is in some way a "restriction" and tries to prove this through varied marketing skeet all over the place.
Realistically the filter is usually the LEAST restrictive part of an intake assembly.
For example on the Mazda 6, if you flow bench the airbox with and without the filter, there is only a 6% difference in airflow.
Leave the filter in, but remove the resonator, and the airflow increases 12-15% (with filter in).
Do the tray mod, the flapper mod, and the resonator mod, and leave the filter in, and you increase airflow almost 40%.
Some options for paper cone filters are...
http://www.baldwinfilter.com/
If your looking for a cotton based oil filter thats far superior (in every way) to a K&N based, check out S&B.
http://www.sbfilters.com/home.htm
Their filters use deeper peats (better filtering surface area), larger pleats (better surface area), tighter meshes (better stability/strength), reinforced end caps (better stability/strength), and have a unique open cone for increased noise/sound, and technically airflow, but as mentioned earlier, filters aren't a restriction.
For more information on this topic, and links to tests and explanations about the true facts about K&N type filters, visit...
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?t=160&start=0
and
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
Knowledge is power, never listen to marketing!
Here's the difference between the crappy injen K&N filter, vs the S&B replacement on my Injen CAI.
Which one would you rather have filtering your air? (Note K&N filter damage)
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I had the K&N pannel filter....I now have a no name 12 inch open top similar to ones you have pictured...When I said custom setup..it's custom....damn filter almost sits on the bottom of the splash guard(hump) ....yeah the material is thicker than the aem one(really soft...picts comming soon) that came with my sri! I can sit on the filter and it still doesn't give way...mr_luv1 saw my setup. I pulled a nice lil cel only in 8 miles!!! I pulled the filter cause after the mesh mod you can see the filter just standing in front of the car. 1 bad rainstorm and I nearly sweated bullets on 495! Off topic(like we already were'nt) anyone find winshield wiper motors that are faster and compatable with our cars cause the fast setting isn't even fast enough for a light shower let alone the rainstorms we get around here.
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I was verry "noided" cause before I was doing the "Usual flow of traffic" speed and next thing I see like an inch of water alone standing on the highway. the filter was dry before I got to his house....SE D.C. to near bethesda. I'm gonna put the filter back on with the custom wind deflector?heat shield I had for my sri(Picts of that soon as well)
Few notes....
1) Try Rain-X for rainstorms. After using it once (the wipes are nice) you'll swear by it. The harder it rains, the less you need your wipers
.
2) Hydrolocking requires that the filter be completely submerged in water. Two Mazda 6's have reported hydrolocking. One with an Injen intake, and one with a completely stock car. Generally if your in 3-4 feet of water, your screwed regardless of if your car is modded or not.
Best rule of thumb, if the water is CROSSING the road, turn around, or let someone else go through first.
1) Try Rain-X for rainstorms. After using it once (the wipes are nice) you'll swear by it. The harder it rains, the less you need your wipers
.2) Hydrolocking requires that the filter be completely submerged in water. Two Mazda 6's have reported hydrolocking. One with an Injen intake, and one with a completely stock car. Generally if your in 3-4 feet of water, your screwed regardless of if your car is modded or not.
Best rule of thumb, if the water is CROSSING the road, turn around, or let someone else go through first
.
