Bose Rear speakers have no BASS

[CX7_Scott]

I have *NO* experience with modern audio installations and I won't claim to.

- BUT -

If I had to venture a guess: I would say that most "Branded" audio systems in cars (Bose, Infinity, etc.) are custom engineered and designed for that specific vehicle. They are not just grabbing "off-the-shelf" components that they already make... they are creating a "sonic experience" where the only goal is how the end-result sounds.

Back in the "old days"... they were popping radios into the dash and throwing "stock" speakers wherever they would fit. Upgrading to a higher-quality speaker or compononet could almost ALWAYS make it sound better because very-little thought went into the requirements or designing of such a system.

Nowadays... I am 100% sure that Bose (or other branded systems) will "Analyze" the environment and custom-design a solution for each vehicle. Because they already "know" the space and are building the system, they can taylor the configuration(s) to get the desired results. If you arbitrarilly try to enhance or augment such a system, you may invariably end-up making it sound worse or BREAKING it.

Unless, of course, you are also a trained professional that understands how these systems work together to produce the final sound(s).

What's my point...? I agree with what others have said - either stick with the original equipment... or gut the beast and use components that work together for YOUR needs - not tapping-in to what's there.

(but what do *I* know?)

 

[chuyler1]

Excellent comment Scott, you have a pretty good grasp of what they do, but don't assume they use high-quality components to achieve their result. First off, Bose and Infinity have a target volume for their high fidelity which may be lower than the average stereo junky would expect. If you have ever installed a subwoofer in a car, you will not get satisfaction from a factory stereo that has one.

Because Bose and Infinity don't have to produce extreme volume levels they can cut corners. They still use cheap speakers off their own shelf (same size in most cars)...but they are better than your average stock speaker. They use low power...but it is more than your average stock deck. They use tweeters...but they won't shine like an aftermarket component speaker tweeter. They use subwoofers...but only to fill out the range that their cheap midranges cannot reproduce, think of them as midbass woofers instead of subwoofers.

However, to overcome the flaws in their speakers and amps, they tune the system for each car. Even though a speed6 and and speed3 may have the same speakers and amp, if you were to swap them they wouldn't sound right in the opposite car because the eq circuit is different. This tuning is where the end user really benefits. I wouldn't say the system is worth the $500-1000 they charge (since you can get much better aftermarket) but it is certainly better than what the manufacturer is going to toss in the car as an afterthought.

I doubt the OEM 5x7" speaker has changed a bit in the past 10 years. I'm sure its the same design they were putting in 323s and 626s.

 

[Mazda3]

One thing I know for sure is that the 9 speaker BOSE system in my CX-7 sounds quite abit better than the 7 speaker system did in my Mazda 6. Its all the stereo I need at this point in my life.

 

[CX7_Scott]

Excellent comment Scott, you have a pretty good grasp of what they do, but don't assume they use high-quality components to achieve their result.

For the record... nowhere did I mention they use high-quality anything.

I agree that it's more about making it sound good at "typical" volume levels. The other advantages to shelling-out the $$$ for a factory-installed and custom-tuned system is integration with the vehicle. Steering-wheel controls, aesthetics... the TechPackage does a "decent" job of tying the AM/FM/CD/MP3-CD/Sirrius/Navigation/Rear backup camera, built-in microphone for voice commands and for AudioPilot/speaker placement and EQ... the whole thing works together.

For me to get a custom-installed system to sound BETTER than the Bose system, to have all the audio/video integration, to have steering wheel controls... I'm sure I'd be paying $1,000 and up for a system that feels well-integrated.

Besides... I must admit... I am no-longer a "fan" of the bells & whistles stylings of most aftermarket head units or their user interfaces. I feel like I'm watching StarTrek or playing a video game.

I'm all for simple, classic styling. Minimalism.
NOT this kind of thing:

From a user-interface standpoing - all of those seem to be the standard styling and all of them fail miserably in *my* opinion. Simplicity and elegance seem to be lacking in the aftermarket world. Not all of us want "bling".

Just my opinion.

 

[vicmar]

Hi,
I read in a Car & Driver article that the project manager who designed the CX-7, which was called the cross-sport (I think) when it was still a concept car, designed the car around the driver, meaning the sound system was optimized for that position and rear seat passenger sound was secondary, and that may be why the rear speakers aren't putting out any serious bass, which is left for the front 9 inch subs.

On a side note, I'm not a big fan of Bose auto sound systems, but my dad's 2000 Pathfinder's (non-Bose) sound system began sounding real bad, and I noted the front door speakers foam surround rotted out, so I ordered some new Pioneers from an online retailer for all 4 doors, and was surprised to find 3 regular full range speakers and one Bose full range installed from factory, and the Bose speaker was still in perfect condition, and actually sounded 10x better that the Pioneer I installed. So, I guess they do have their speaker manufacturing process down pat.

The only thing I don't like about my Touring's Bose system is how it tapers off the bass as the volume is raised above 30-35 (to reduce distorsion I'm sure), making the system sound thinner, replacing bass with midrange.

 

[chuyler1]

Are you sure that isn't the auto-loudness feature? Usually loudness is required for low volume because the speakers produce very little bass with such low power...but as you turn the volume up the loudness tapers off because it is no longer required. If you have loudness on, turn it off and set your bass/treble accordingly. Then you won't feel as though the bass goes down as teh volume goes up.

 

[vbbuilt01]

Annoying Vibrations from Speakers

Wow, excellent commentary here! I've learned a lot, just from this thread! Thanks to all!

Now for this slightly O/T question. I have the Tech package with the 9 speaker Bose system.

When I have the volume turned up, pumping out some pretty good bass, I get this annoying vibration, almost a rattle, from both of the front speakers, especially when the doors are open. I occasionally get that "rattle" even when the doors are closed and the volume cranked.

What could be the cause?

I took the car back to the dealer who tried to fix it and he told me, after examining the enclosure, that he thinks it might be some of the molding on the inside, that is vibrating. Unfortunately, he wasn't able to fix the problem.

Any ideas on what I can do about that? Would an after-market installer be able to analyze the problem and fix, without replacing any components?

I want to be able to to have clean sound, when the volume is cranked and doors are open. I don't want to hear vibration or rattle.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Vince.

 

[mikey1981]

its the door plastic that is on the left top driver/right top passenger (if you open the door, the plastic that meets the metal of the door underneath the side mirror.) if you add some pressure, the rattle of the plastic will end. use a sliver of dbl sided tape or a small rubber insert to tighten up the space, u should be ok. there doesnt seem to be any felt or padding on the bottom of this surface.

on quick fix that most people prob wont like but it works for me. i add some slight pressure to the side of the door with my knee while driving, and it usually takes care of the rattles from the bass, lol.

 

[chuyler1]

A layer of RAAMMat ensolite will solve all your rattling problems.
www.raammat.com

 

[vbbuilt01]

Mikey, thanks. I've never popped the panels on a door, so wouldn't know how to do, what you're advocating. Is there some technique? I don't want to damage anything or mar the finish.

Vince.

its the door plastic that is on the left top driver/right top passenger (if you open the door, the plastic that meets the metal of the door underneath the side mirror.) if you add some pressure, the rattle of the plastic will end. use a sliver of dbl sided tape or a small rubber insert to tighten up the space, u should be ok. there doesnt seem to be any felt or padding on the bottom of this surface.

on quick fix that most people prob wont like but it works for me. i add some slight pressure to the side of the door with my knee while driving, and it usually takes care of the rattles from the bass, lol.

 

[vbbuilt01]

Chuyler, I went to that website. Pretty complicated stuff. I'd need an expert. What's the cost for a techician to put in that ensolite?

Vince.

A layer of RAAMMat ensolite will solve all your rattling problems.
www.raammat.com

 

[mikey1981]

you wont have to pop or remove anything, there is a gap in the seem where the plastic is if you just pull gently with ur fingers. You can easily slide a small rubber square and or dbl sided tape right into the gap without having to pull apart any material of sorts. If you are very concerned about damaging paint or whatever, get a nice straight edge screw driver, put a thin smooth towel over the head, slide it into the gap abit to get some space, insert the rubber or tape so the plastic edge rests nicely on it w/some pressure, and waaaala

 

[vbbuilt01]

I can't visualize what it is you're talking about. Wish you lived in northern VA...I'd buy you a beer in exchange for some hands-on assist.

No matter, no need for you to go into more explanation. Don't want to trouble you any further.

Thanks, Vince.

you wont have to pop or remove anything, there is a gap in the seem where the plastic is if you just pull gently with ur fingers. You can easily slide a small rubber square and or dbl sided tape right into the gap without having to pull apart any material of sorts. If you are very concerned about damaging paint or whatever, get a nice straight edge screw driver, put a thin smooth towel over the head, slide it into the gap abit to get some space, insert the rubber or tape so the plastic edge rests nicely on it w/some pressure, and waaaala

 

[mikey1981]

ill take pictures for ya - its not a big thing todo at all - when i get out of the office, ill post some.

 

[chuyler1]

I don't know what it would cost for a professional to install. Removing door panels isn't very difficult, there are a few screws, fasteners, and then it just pops right off. Any audio shop should be able to give you a quote.

 

[vbbuilt01]

ill take pictures for ya - its not a big thing todo at all - when i get out of the office, ill post some.

Hey Mikey, did you get a chance to take some pics?

Thanks, Vince.

 

[xraytedjim]

I'd buy you a beer in exchange for some hands-on assist.

I've used that line in the past....(boobs)


Usually got me slapped!! (nuts)

 

[bertrand_CX_7]

Hi Guys,

It's look like more than one has already the solution for the Bose rear Speakers. Sorry but didn't see this link before.

Take a look at the attached pictures.

Here is the original link: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2661947

So back to the main question: Is there any one here who add a subwoofer and keep the Bose Radio Unit.

Thanks for the feed back

 

[mikey1981]

Hey Mikey, did you get a chance to take some pics?

Thanks, Vince.

just revisiting and saw this....too bad..sorry vince! the cx-7 didnt hold up long enough for me to take pics, lol.

 

[bertrand_CX_7]

Hi,

comming back with some news.

I'll get the sub in my car install this Friday with a second amp just to have more bass.

NB: For background infos: I'll keep the bose system add a second amp for the subwoofer in fiberglass enclosure box.

I've chose a customized Subwoofer enclosure what costum sounds will build in for me.By the way I'll also plug the https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) which will allow me to play the song names and tittles on the factory LED what the mazda ipod connector didn't and still control the Ipod on the steering wheel. Men It's sucks 180 boxs to only plug the MP3? Just Crazy(Oh yes Mazda you're sucking).

Is any one been using the same AUX adapter ? It'll be great to share some infos and experiances(NB: Have a Bose and I thing It's SAT reday since I have the SAT button on my head unit.).

For the Sub I'll surelly go with the JL 12W1v2. Right now I'm not sure if the 13" will fitt in the right luguage area like here Sub enclosure box . So my question: Does any one has 13" in a customized subinclusre installed? Will be nice to get some infos.

So my big Question: I've take a look at the Audi 'S' series with Bose system this weekend. All of them with Bose sounds system has a 13" subwoofer in a customized enclosure. But It's sounds not bad. The audis have additionallly a 3,5 High toner in the rear doors. IS THE ANY REASON FOR USING HERE A 13" SUB?

Thanks for your answers and advices.

Bertrand_CX_7