Bose issues: Integrating an aftermarket subwoofer.

[SayNoToPistons]

For those that are lazy to read:
Tap into Bose speaker output for a subwoofer? Get muddy bass, harsh highs and loss in mid range from Bose speakers.


From what I have discovered, tapping any output from the Bose processor/amp will yield poor results. Not only will the sub-bass sound muddy, it will also hinder the Bose system to produce very harsh highs with a loss in mids.

I assume this has to do with the Bose processor EQing the signals out to the speakers to the point where it is not suitable to be used for sub-bass even with a LOC. Also the Bose processor somehow modifies all system signals (especially the highs) when there is a draw from tapping into one of its outputs, which is the most significant problem. Personally, I have a high level input in my amp, but for those even with the best LOC like the LC2i yielded similar results.

I haven't tried tapping in between the headunit and Bose processor/amp. Check the diagrams and you will see a connector with (if I recall correctly) 8 wires. Those 8 wires are not labeled, so you would have to find out which is for the two rear full range signals. This might be the last experiment to see if we can get a proper full range signal without hindering the rest of the system.

For more information, follow my thread:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...powered-rf-subwoofer-speaker-level-input.html

 

[i3enny]

i tapped into the wires before the bose amplifier and i have had great results.

 

[SayNoToPistons]

Which wires did you tap into? The wires are unlabeled, so I assumed you measured the signal?

 

[garyd9]

Which wires did you tap into? The wires are unlabeled, so I assumed you measured the signal?

Post 26 in your DIYMA thread seems to indicate the HU <-> Amp wires for the pre-amp signals...

Even if those aren't the proper wires, using the same method that poster used might be what you'll need to do to solve the riddle. Sure, it's a PITA... but wouldn't it be worth it?

 

[SayNoToPistons]

Post 26 in your DIYMA thread seems to indicate the HU <-> Amp wires for the pre-amp signals...

Even if those aren't the proper wires, using the same method that poster used might be what you'll need to do to solve the riddle. Sure, it's a PITA... but wouldn't it be worth it?

Yeah, I'm going to take a stab at that harness with a DMM. I was wondering what wires i3enny tapped into and if they correlate with that post.

 

[garyd9]

Yeah, I'm going to take a stab at that harness with a DMM. I was wondering what wires i3enny tapped into and if they correlate with that post.

However it works out, please let us all know.

 

[SayNoToPistons]

Will do.

For the record, the system sounds better if the subwoofer signal is tapped into the rear speakers and headunit's "Center Point" mode is enable. The harshness is no longer present and the subwoofer signal is stronger as the Bose processor EQ's each set of speakers to an entirely different setting. IMO still not acceptable because the subwoofer receives a signal that is overwhelmingly strong in the upper spectrum of the sub-bass frequency, which at times can drown out everything else. Crossover settings did not help much.

 

[Bob-Loblaw]

So did you ever get this worked out? I'm thinking of adding a sub but it sounds like a PITA.

 

[i3enny]

theres a diagram floating around that was labeled correctly and color coded for pos, neg, left, right, etc. It was pretty straight forward, worked without flaw from day one.

 

[i3enny]

in fact, now that i think about it, I think i uploaded the diagram to my albums for reference....

 

[Bob-Loblaw]

in fact, now that i think about it, I think i uploaded the diagram to my albums for reference....

That diagram work for the 2016 as well?

 

[i3enny]

I cannot confirm this- I guess if you have a similar bose setup it would. It makes sense from a financial standpoint to use all the same wiring harnesses. When you pull apart the passenger side kick panel, if your wires are the same colors that feed into the amp, then it should.