Blown headgasket (azian6er)

azian6er

Asian Law Student
:
Mazda Speed Protege #987
well s***, my hg finally went. Im glad it wasnt anything else. I have been having numerous boiling coolant problems and radiator troubles over the past 5K miles.

First my lower radiator hose burst on the freeway then i pulled over and saw what happened. I just thought that the hose popped, so i replaced it on the side of the freeway but then i started the car and there was white smoke comming from everywhere. Tons was billowing out of my tail pipe. From this iand the boiling coolant problems i had i determined it is a headgasket failure.

Basically, I need to know how hard it is to do the hg and which would be a good alternative to the stock one.

Anyone know how much labor is involved and which one i should go with?

Also, can i get a thicker one to lower my compression down to 8.5:1 instead of 9:1 now?

I need help, and a hug (bang)

-B
 
yeah, you can get a thicker one. I'd get a copper one... I saw a GB a while ago?

glad you finally figured it out, although I wonder why if finally decided to take a crap.
 
too much heat and abuse no doubt.

is a head gasket hard to swap? do i need to check compression before i pull the head? just to make sure my piston rings arent fried with detonation?

-B
 
that sucks man... andrea and i were hoping it was just that coolant hose.

and pat, i think it finally decided to take a crap because we were trying to race a modded cobra :p

but yeah, that really sucks bryan, lemme know how the fix goes.
 
you can get a copper one. headgasket is about a 5 hour job. make sure you replace the head bolts with new ones unless you have ARP headstuds. i would do a compression and leak down test before you pull out so you have #'s to go by after you get the gasket replaced. also flush the oil to make sure it doesn't get contaminated.

-Alan
 
i replaced my headgasket and it took me two days. I did it slowly but it was done correctly the first time. There are a lot of things to remove and even more with a turbo car.

Good luck with yer gasket do0d.
 
its possible the head is warped... thats worse-case though... you should look to upgrade the radiator.. cause its the real culprit here
 
i definately know that the radiator is the culprit. Ryan, you know where to get a good deal on a pwr one?

-B

Also, does anyone know where to get a rubbercoated headgasket?
 
yeah i am also curious if i need to keep the msp sized radiator then im wondering what will fit. I was thining some kind of honda radiator, but im not sure.

-B
 
which FMIC do you have? that would be a start as to if you can use a standard sized one
 
yeah i know. I have a custom unit that utilizes the space of the stock ic so theortically, i couldnt use the full sized radiator unless i rerouted my ic piping. I dont know what will fit in the stock msp radiator space.

-B
 
yeah... not worth it... beter to just get the MSP one, and get some upgraded fans to help out.... stock fans are PUSS!!!!
 
so you are saying, just get a stock msp radiator? i dont believe they make upgraded ones for the msp size yet, do they?

-B
 
http://www.awrracing.com/pages/cooling.html

<table width="690" border="0" cellpadding="2"> <tbody><tr><td colspan="4" valign="middle" align="center"><hr> </td> </tr> <tr> <td width="177" valign="top"></td> <td colspan="3" valign="top">
COMPETITION RADIATOR 1995-2003 PROTEGE SEDAN, MP3 AND PROTEGE5

Our competition radiator is for higher output engines, such as those used in the SPEED World Challenge cars. Also excellent for MAZDASPEED or turbocharged applications, this radiator is 6" narrower than stock to allow for the placement of an intercooler or oil cooler beside the radiator.

This 6061-T6 all aluminum radiator features a heavier duty construction, and improved design over our HIGH PERFORMANCE radiator, specifically tailored for higher output engines. This radiator requires two mounting tabs to be relocated to install and is available for the 1995-2003 Mazda Protege'.

A High Performance radiator hose kit is also available through AWR as an upgrade to this radiator. 13" tall x 21.0 wide x 3 1/4" thick core.

</td> </tr> <tr> <td width="177" valign="middle" align="center">
</td> <td valign="top" width="353"> <table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="0"> <tbody><tr> <td width="200"> 0000-01-3502

</td> <td></td> </tr> </tbody></table> </td> <td colspan="2" valign="top"> 1995-2003 Protege ES, MP3, and Protege5. (may require slight fitment to 1995-98 Proteges)

</td></tr></tbody> </table>
 
As a warning, thicker head gaskets will blow out easier, so you know. More material means a wider point of failure. A copper one will definitly help, though. Hey, while you have your head off, though, could you take a picture of the one of chambers? I'm kind of curious to see what sort of quench zone the FS head has.
 
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