Yeah there is a TSB for that issue. The dealer should replace your HU no problem.
Blose improvement for cheap $
- Thread starter 6262MS3
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Yeah there is a TSB for that issue. The dealer should replace your HU no problem.
Mazda_Thr3
Member
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- 2008 Mazda 3i Touring Value
im good with abbreviations but not with TSB 
im still in warranty so they WILL do it for free hehe.
im still in warranty so they WILL do it for free hehe.NiteRunner
Member
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- MazdaSpeed3 GT
Installed the front 10u coils pictured in OP, tweets and caps.
Wow, definitely better. For those that know, cleaning and moving up the highs really helps the sound stage.
This whole thing takes maybe a couple hours. I will try to take pics since I elected to put the cap into the door sail, believe it or not that big thing will fit.
Did a post get deleted? What happened to the four .15u coils as well, were these all for the rear doors? The rear sounds muddy enough without removing any highs present me thinks. Maybe some better full range speakers.
Shame on Mazda and Bose for installing such a cheap system. I'm not a Bose fan, but I know they could have done much better than this for the same money, just listen now.
For me it's on to installing a comp 300wRMS 8" sub for now. I don't want to remove the Bose sub as it's not hurting anything. Any ideas on other stealth amp locations? It's only 8"x10"x3"
Wow, definitely better. For those that know, cleaning and moving up the highs really helps the sound stage.
This whole thing takes maybe a couple hours. I will try to take pics since I elected to put the cap into the door sail, believe it or not that big thing will fit.
Did a post get deleted? What happened to the four .15u coils as well, were these all for the rear doors? The rear sounds muddy enough without removing any highs present me thinks. Maybe some better full range speakers.
Shame on Mazda and Bose for installing such a cheap system. I'm not a Bose fan, but I know they could have done much better than this for the same money, just listen now.
For me it's on to installing a comp 300wRMS 8" sub for now. I don't want to remove the Bose sub as it's not hurting anything. Any ideas on other stealth amp locations? It's only 8"x10"x3"
Niterunner, If you installed bass limiters on the rears, that's all you need to do.There are no highs coming from back there anyways. Glad to hear it made a great difference, like it did for my car. There's another thread around here about this that includes doing the rears. Maybe that's where the missing post is you're looking for. I think it's called the fix for Bose, or something like that.
The forum defaults to only showing posts within a month so you might have to look in the lower left and choose a longer time period to see all the posts.
The forum defaults to only showing posts within a month so you might have to look in the lower left and choose a longer time period to see all the posts.
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NiteRunner
Member
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- MazdaSpeed3 GT
Thanks for the link Breezy, I found the info regarding the extra coils.
What do you think the crossover point is like with your setup vs the other.
Yours with (2).15u coils per front, right? The other is (1).10u coil, (what I did also). I like the sound but would like to know what I've cut out.
As mentioned I managed to fit those huge caps into the sail, so anyone that just wants better highs can do this mod in about half an hour.
What do you think the crossover point is like with your setup vs the other.
Yours with (2).15u coils per front, right? The other is (1).10u coil, (what I did also). I like the sound but would like to know what I've cut out.
As mentioned I managed to fit those huge caps into the sail, so anyone that just wants better highs can do this mod in about half an hour.
Gezz, I would say the system with only the fronts done was a 6-7 on a scale of 1-10. With the rears done, the sound really came alive. I would give that a 9 or so. It made a world of difference to do the rears. This might sound a little wierd but I've found only a one type of music that sounded wrong on this system and that is Mark Knofler/ Dire Straits. For some reason the vocals are downplayed. Every else I listen too, from soft female vocalists to rockers like Ian Hunter sound great. I'm quite happy with it.
I also have 1 CD that is a "quiet" recording. That requires about 4 or 5 more clicks of volume, and it doesn't sound nearly as good as everything else does. For me 14 on a normal CD or radio will blow me out of the car, but this one CD needs more than that. I think the system at around 15 or so starts to get distorted to some small degree and that's what I'm hearing. I believe it's in the cheesy amp. I think the speakers are pretty good.
NiteRunner
Member
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- MazdaSpeed3 GT
What do you think of Breezy using (2).15mH coils for each front vs your use of (1).10mH in conjunction with the same cap and tweet? I just installed your setup and so far I like it.
Maybe we're missing something here. I did just what 626 did EXCEPT that I also put the caps as you them, on the rear speakers too.
NiteRunner
Member
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- MazdaSpeed3 GT
Sorry Breezy, I was asking the wrong person. I didn't realize that someone else was elaborating on your OP.
This is 626 method.
In your thread "The fix for the Bose!!" post #32 reads
What diff does .075mH make from .100mH in this application? I purchased both as bacarl uses .100mH for the rear doors.
This is 626 method.
In your thread "The fix for the Bose!!" post #32 reads
What diff does .075mH make from .100mH in this application? I purchased both as bacarl uses .100mH for the rear doors.
Whoa whoa, I didn't type that. That would actually make me sound like a smart person! That quote came from kvndoom.
However, I think I can answer your question. By using the .075mH inductor rather than the .10mH, it changes the frequency of the low-pass filter. Using a .10mH results in a ~3kHz low-pass, which leaves a large gap between the ~4kHz high-pass created by the 10uF capacitor. Changing the inductance of the coil (coils in this case) shrinks that gap and allows a fuller frequency range to be heard.
However, I think I can answer your question. By using the .075mH inductor rather than the .10mH, it changes the frequency of the low-pass filter. Using a .10mH results in a ~3kHz low-pass, which leaves a large gap between the ~4kHz high-pass created by the 10uF capacitor. Changing the inductance of the coil (coils in this case) shrinks that gap and allows a fuller frequency range to be heard.
NiteRunner
Member
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- MazdaSpeed3 GT
Oops, not sure how I got that confused since I thought I used the quote button, but then I was quoting from two different threads.
Appreciate the help with the x-over points. As mentioned I currently have it set up like Breezy @ .10, maybe I'll give it a try @.075 and see if I get better results.
Thanks
ps, still looking for some help on my amp mounting location thread.
Appreciate the help with the x-over points. As mentioned I currently have it set up like Breezy @ .10, maybe I'll give it a try @.075 and see if I get better results.
Thanks
ps, still looking for some help on my amp mounting location thread.
NiteRunner
Member
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- MazdaSpeed3 GT
As mentioned the biggest difference is raising and cleaning up the front staging.
I've competed with my own installation before, but never designed my own x-overs, (someone figured them first). I agree about the low pass and was also thinking they needed one, but I believe that you are right and the Bose amp already does this, possibly on a sliding scale even. I may leave the .10s alone, or take them out and use them in the rear doors as I planned when I purchased them. I still can't believe that these woofers were playing full range before, that's ludicrous.
Still no one who knows a good place for an amp? I was debating on defiling the sub floor area above and to the left of the spare tire. Might just fit, anyone know or have pics?
I've competed with my own installation before, but never designed my own x-overs, (someone figured them first). I agree about the low pass and was also thinking they needed one, but I believe that you are right and the Bose amp already does this, possibly on a sliding scale even. I may leave the .10s alone, or take them out and use them in the rear doors as I planned when I purchased them. I still can't believe that these woofers were playing full range before, that's ludicrous.
Still no one who knows a good place for an amp? I was debating on defiling the sub floor area above and to the left of the spare tire. Might just fit, anyone know or have pics?
I've been following this thread for awhile and decided to go ahead and do the mods. I'm waiting for the parts to arrive. I'm planning to do it this weekend.
I have been looking for threads how to remove the door panels. I found the "how to" for the front panel. Could somebody point me to the right place to find 'how to remove the rear door panel'? Maybe I have not look long enough.
Or could you guys give some tips how to remove the rear door panel?
Thanks in advance.
I have been looking for threads how to remove the door panels. I found the "how to" for the front panel. Could somebody point me to the right place to find 'how to remove the rear door panel'? Maybe I have not look long enough.
Or could you guys give some tips how to remove the rear door panel?
Thanks in advance.
The front and rear panels are pretty similar, actually. Sorry I don't have any pics but I'll try to explain. You've got the same two screws to remove as the front, one behind the armrest/pull handle and one behind the latch lever. Pry up the little covers with a blade or tiny screwdriver and remove the screws.
Each panel has seven xmas tree push-in fasteners. Start at the edge of the panel closest to the hinge. You can kind of get your fingers behind the plastic there and pry up. Talking about the left door, I start at 2-3 o'clock and pop the fasteners out clockwise. The panel is also sandwiched between the sheet metel and the window glass at the top of the door. I've found it's easier to work the panel in/out if you remove the rear sail panel, which is just attached by two more push-in fasteners.
The connectors going to the locks/window switches can be a bit of a pain, but you can rotate the panel upside down to get a better view if need be.
Install is opposite. With the sail panel off, push the panel back between the sheet metal and window glass, then press in all seven fasteners (listen for seven distinct pops to ensure they're all in), then replace both screws.
Good luck! I just finished the mod last weekend and am really digging the results. I printed off kvndoom's write-up from Breezy's thread along with some of 626's pics.
The only advice I'd add is regarding the front junction where the woofer and tweeter wires split off the power wire from the amp. There is a T-junction that's all taped up, and I assumed that the crimp would be in there. However, I found that the amp wire actually goes up a few inches before it's crimped, then the woofer wire comes back down and the tweeter wire goes up. This might not make much sense until you look at it... Anyhow, don't bother cutting all the tape off the T-junction because there's nothing behind it. Start about two inches above it and slice the tape upwards - you should find the white wire crimper right away.
Each panel has seven xmas tree push-in fasteners. Start at the edge of the panel closest to the hinge. You can kind of get your fingers behind the plastic there and pry up. Talking about the left door, I start at 2-3 o'clock and pop the fasteners out clockwise. The panel is also sandwiched between the sheet metel and the window glass at the top of the door. I've found it's easier to work the panel in/out if you remove the rear sail panel, which is just attached by two more push-in fasteners.
The connectors going to the locks/window switches can be a bit of a pain, but you can rotate the panel upside down to get a better view if need be.
Install is opposite. With the sail panel off, push the panel back between the sheet metal and window glass, then press in all seven fasteners (listen for seven distinct pops to ensure they're all in), then replace both screws.
Good luck! I just finished the mod last weekend and am really digging the results. I printed off kvndoom's write-up from Breezy's thread along with some of 626's pics.
The only advice I'd add is regarding the front junction where the woofer and tweeter wires split off the power wire from the amp. There is a T-junction that's all taped up, and I assumed that the crimp would be in there. However, I found that the amp wire actually goes up a few inches before it's crimped, then the woofer wire comes back down and the tweeter wire goes up. This might not make much sense until you look at it... Anyhow, don't bother cutting all the tape off the T-junction because there's nothing behind it. Start about two inches above it and slice the tape upwards - you should find the white wire crimper right away.
I found it easier to just remove the sail panel between the doors and put the "cap" there, without having to remove the rear door parts at all. It's ultra easy to get in and out. Pull up the sill panels in each door opening then remove the sail panel. You can see the wiring right there.
dandydaniel
Member
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- 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3
sorry to bring back an old thread but i'm about to purchase the necessary parts to do this install... was wondering if anyone could post a couple extra pictures as well.. especially the rear specifically Breezy mentioning the fact that the rear could be done by just removing the "sail" piece?
qwerty4550
Member
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- Mazdaspeed3 Black Mica
Sorry for bringing an old post back to life, but does anybody have the wiring diagrams for the front left speaker and front right speaker? I tried to search the web and couldn't come up with anything. :-/
I'm having a bit of trouble with the bose speakers in my mazdaspeed3. I counteracted the lack of base with a couple of subs, but I've started experiencing another issue. The high vocals have started to distort at about 75% volume and get really bad at 100%. Has anyone experienced this issue before? I want to know whats causing the problem, did I blow out the amps or speakers? I've looked into replacing both and its way over my budget... Any tips?
