Avenge Cosmo

AVENGE

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Eunos Cosmo 20b Type E
Hey guys,

Here is my 20b Cosmo its a 92 Type E. So far I have added 3 piece 20x11 wheels, d2 coilovers and a carbing strut brace, and rolled the front guards. I am really happy with how the car handles with this setup. Since picking the car up a week ago I have changed the plugs and done an oil change. One small niggle I have with this car is it has a noticeable miss and wont rev past 5000rpm. Any thoughts on that miss would be appreciated. I might start with the fuel filter.

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Wow, looks really good mate!

Definately change the petrol filter. One tuner over here has noticed a link between stuffed motors and old clogged filters. Should be replaced annually. Check your Plug leads. I'm amazed how many cars still have original leads.

Kramer
 
Thanks mate - I will def replace the filter then. Its funny you mentioned the lead set - my dad had a drive of it and he thought it could be the lead set too - I am pretty sure they are original.
 
Thanks guys appreciate your positive comments. I am going to take your recommendations around my little problem. Just waiting on the parts to arrive - will keep you posted.
 
Bit of an update - took the cosmo out of the garage and cleaned it today and my girl shot these pics using an instagram ap. Waiting for oem plug leads and a new fuel filter to arrive from Japan. My usual rotary workshop is booked solid for 6 weeks due to circuit racing off season here in NZL - so can't get the cosmo over for a while yet - but they think I might have a collapsed cat based on what I have told them.

I have also bought a couple of cool Re-Amemiya bits for it.

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I have one of those pod filters myself,, I have to say you did really well geting hold of one of those column pod gauges they are like hens teeth
if you spot another in black snap it up for me (peep)

Cheers Frank
 
121 bubble has an equvelant fuel filter that you can buy from your local Mazda dealer BP01-20-40B99
Kramer
 
121 bubble has an equvelant fuel filter that you can buy from your local Mazda dealer BP01-20-40B99
Kramer

I have ordered one of these which I believe is the equivalent in the UK for mine. Here in the UK now and hope to check this at the weekend.

Ant
 
Happy to report that the new fuel filter and lead set seems to have fixed my reving over 5k and missing problem. It does feels like the 2nd turbo is maybe not there though - so next step is to hook up the boost gauge and see if its boosting properly.
 
Ok quick update- sorted my error 48 code from my other thread it was an unplugged sensor. I refurbished (powdercoated it black) and cleaned the re-amemiya intake fitted that and had a mandrel bent exhaust 3.5 inch into twin 2.5 inch nz made rotary specific custom adrenalin r mufflers built and installed. The second turbo is now boosting and wow what a difference - i drove it back from a friends place tonight about an hour away and on a cold night on some back country roads on the way home she pulled hard. Effortless power now - i am very happy and loving that 20b sound (drive2)

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Happy to report that the new fuel filter and lead set seems to have fixed my reving over 5k and missing problem. It does feels like the 2nd turbo is maybe not there though - so next step is to hook up the boost gauge and see if its boosting properly.

Glad to know...How many miles or km was the previous fuel filter on for? I've wondered how often the EC fuel filter should be changed..?


Ok quick update- sorted my error 48 code from my other thread it was an unplugged sensor. I refurbished (powdercoated it black) and cleaned the re-amemiya intake fitted that and had a mandrel bent exhaust 3.5 inch into twin 2.5 inch nz made rotary specific custom adrenalin r mufflers built and installed. The second turbo is now boosting and wow what a difference - i drove it back from a friends place tonight about an hour away and on a cold night on some back country roads on the way home she pulled hard. Effortless power now - i am very happy and loving that 20b sound (drive2)

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Nice update...So you don't have to run any smog / cats for older cars in New Zealand?
 
Glad to know...How many miles or km was the previous fuel filter on for? I've wondered how often the EC fuel filter should be changed..?




Nice update...So you don't have to run any smog / cats for older cars in New Zealand?

Antoine I am not sure - but i suspect it may never have been changed - my car has 61,000 kms on the clock/

If the car is pre 2005 you don't need any smog stuff or cats in NZ - so I ditched the airpump too when I got the exhaust done.
 
Antoine, fuel filter every twelve months! They are a paper type inside and apparently they literally fall to bits. They are cheap as chips and not worth not doing!

Kramer
 
Hey all - I fitted the re amemiya shroud and a boost gauge this weekend. It reveals interesting info. From a standing start the primary turbo is boosting to 9psi then there is a noticeable drop to 5psi during transition and then it drops away to nothing by about 6500rpm. If you floor it ie to perform a pass when the 2nd turbo kicks in it makes a fluttery noise and the boost bounces around 5psi. I searched online and replaced the solenoid on the Jpipe (between throttle body and intercooler) this hasn't fixed the problem. I am getting fed up with the unreliability of this twin turbo setup - strongly leaning towards going to a streetable single turbo (maybe a smaller turbo for more low end rather than all out big mother). Any recommendations or advice welcomed.

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check your vacuum box is holding vacuum. it should hold vacuum for about 30s after shut down.
iv heard this is the most common 2nd turbo issue.
Failing that it may also be one of the soleniods under the intake manifold.
 
This was happening to me with my twin setup. Pretty much the exact scenario that you described. You have a few options and I'll start them in order of least difficult to most difficult...

1. Go non-sequential!

Remove all non-essential rats nest components and manually set the flappers to open. You can do this without removing the actual turbos and it would take about a day to do if you are used to the Cosmo's engine bay. Lots of guides are available online. Basicallly, you need to make up 8, 3K Ohm resistors attached to space connectors. You plus these into the solenoid connections after removing them to avoid error codes. I can dig up more specific info for you.

2. Go Single!

I'd recommend something like a T04Z, T04R, T04E (what I have currently got) or GT35R. Borg Warner are also recommended but I haven't had any luck with these. Going single has its charms - consistent boost levels, ability to find replacement parts easily etc. The downsides are that you are opening a can of worms. I went single for the exact same reasons and my car ended up being off the road for a year.

I refuse to go into any sort of debt because of my car so I was essentially just spending my "allowance" money each month to acquire parts. I did most of the work without the assistance of a mechanic also so that saved me $$$. The reason why I say it is a can of worms is that there are a ton of small things that you will need which quickly add up... gaskets, new studs etc. But even worse, you start to think to yourself "while I am here I may as well..." ...and that was pretty much what I did for a year.

Do I regret it? Hell no. The car is so much more fun. It's like sitting on a nuclear arsenal waiting to unleash it. With the factory turbos, sure you had a massive arsenal of power, but the launch button could not be guaranteed to work. With the single set-up you know that you can unleash the monster at will. :)

For the trials and tribulations of going single on a Cosmo, check out my build thread.

3. Restore the factory system

I rate this as being the most problematic of all three. Why? because stuff under the bonnet is old and going to break. You pretty much need to consider that everything involved in that system will need to be replaced with new parts. When I was working on my car connectors would just break when I touched them. I knew to be gentle but still things were extremely brittle.

This is the point at which you go to your local Mazda dealer and they will do one of two things... The first and most likely option is that they will tell you to go away and find part numbers for everything. The second thing which they will do is charge you a handsome fee for these parts. Don't get me wrong, I am not complaining about the price of these parts because it was a very expensive (and complex) car. My main issue comes back to the fact that 15 years from now, you are going to be doing the exact same thing. You'll get about eight to ten years of good drive ability, then the gremlins come back.

The other reason why I rate this as the third option is that you will more than likely need to do all of this work yourself unless you have serious disposable cash. It CAN be done though - but for time invested / money spent I think that this option has the least return on investment. Plus every time I see this picture I cringe..

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I would say it comes down to your long terms plans for the car. All of these options mean that you will be committing to owning the car for a long period of time. I decided to put the time into going single because I have no intentions of selling my car.
 
Berty,
I'd be interested in the more specific info if you have it to hand. Mine is non-sequential but has been completed poor mans style. I know of the FD guides, did you have more specifics for the Cosmo? I will *eventually* go single but would like to clean up and simplify as much as possible.
 

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