ATF and filter change pictures or how-to?
- Thread starter fluxpato
- Start date
I haven't done it yet on my own 2, but I've done several ATF flushes on our Mazda 3, and from the looks of it the process is very similar and pretty easy. (I'd point you to a link on a "competing" Mazda 3 forum but the forums here would nuke the link.)
Here's the basic procedure. Note that you'll need a drain pan that's graduated so you can see visually how much fluid is in it. I made by own with a small clear Rubbermaid storage bin, with quart lines Sharpied on the side. In total, you should need about 9 quarts of Mazda M-V (not Mercon V, which is different) compatible ATF.
1. Jack up the car and drain the ATF from the tranny pan, should be about 3 quarts.
2. Refill the tranny pan with an equivalent amount of new fluid, by sticking a funnel in the dipstick tube.
3. Get a 3 to 4-foot length of 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing and connect it to the output side of the little "pancake" ATF cooler at the front of the car.
4. Stick the other end of the tube in the drain pan, then have a helper start the car.
5. Old fluid will start being pumped into the drain pan. Have the helper stop the engine when it's pumped out the same amount of fluid that you'd drained earlier (again, about 3 quarts).
6. Refill the tranny pan, again, with an equivalent amount of new fluid. At this point, the entire ATX system (including torque converter) has 66% new fluid and 33% old fluid.
7. Repeat step 4 and 5. Stop the engine when you start to see new, bright red fluid coming through the clear hose.
8. Repeat step 6.
Here's the basic procedure. Note that you'll need a drain pan that's graduated so you can see visually how much fluid is in it. I made by own with a small clear Rubbermaid storage bin, with quart lines Sharpied on the side. In total, you should need about 9 quarts of Mazda M-V (not Mercon V, which is different) compatible ATF.
1. Jack up the car and drain the ATF from the tranny pan, should be about 3 quarts.
2. Refill the tranny pan with an equivalent amount of new fluid, by sticking a funnel in the dipstick tube.
3. Get a 3 to 4-foot length of 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing and connect it to the output side of the little "pancake" ATF cooler at the front of the car.
4. Stick the other end of the tube in the drain pan, then have a helper start the car.
5. Old fluid will start being pumped into the drain pan. Have the helper stop the engine when it's pumped out the same amount of fluid that you'd drained earlier (again, about 3 quarts).
6. Refill the tranny pan, again, with an equivalent amount of new fluid. At this point, the entire ATX system (including torque converter) has 66% new fluid and 33% old fluid.
7. Repeat step 4 and 5. Stop the engine when you start to see new, bright red fluid coming through the clear hose.
8. Repeat step 6.
I'm pretty sure it does, but it's not a typical radiator-style one -- it's this little thing the size of a tuna can. I think there may be a coolant loop that runs through it or something. I need to get under my car again one of these weekends to do some more underbody Plasti-Dipping, so I'll try to remember to take pictures.
Just re-read the how-to post here, haven't had time to do the change yet. My dealer sold me MERCON V and not M5...I'm guessing I need to take it back and swap it?
EDIT: Yup, sure do. Manual says M-V, not Mercon V. Gonna smack the parts guy when I go back in, could've cost me my warranty. One more reason to dislike dealerships.
EDIT: Yup, sure do. Manual says M-V, not Mercon V. Gonna smack the parts guy when I go back in, could've cost me my warranty. One more reason to dislike dealerships.
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Plasti-Dip: http://www.plastidip.com/
Basically, it's a spray-on rubber/plastic coating. What's nice about it, though, is that if you wax the surface first, you can peel it off. It's also pretty tough stuff if you apply it as multiple coats.
As for Mercon V, you wouldn't blow up your transmission or anything if you use it...it's close enough in spec to M-V to work. But if you have the option to switch it for the real deal, do so. You can also look at synthetic ATF that's compatible with M-V, like Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF (which is what I run in our Mazda 3 and will likely use in my 2 when it's due for a flush).
Basically, it's a spray-on rubber/plastic coating. What's nice about it, though, is that if you wax the surface first, you can peel it off. It's also pretty tough stuff if you apply it as multiple coats.
As for Mercon V, you wouldn't blow up your transmission or anything if you use it...it's close enough in spec to M-V to work. But if you have the option to switch it for the real deal, do so. You can also look at synthetic ATF that's compatible with M-V, like Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF (which is what I run in our Mazda 3 and will likely use in my 2 when it's due for a flush).
So the good news (back 8 months ago) was I got the right sort of ATF, the M-V. The bad news, it was a project that never got completed. Wife and I swapped cars, her old VW blew up and I gave her my 2 so she'd have something reliable to drive while out of state for her co-op. 6 months and 15k miles later they're both back, and the 2's still in great shape, although in need of some maintenance. Pulled up this thread since it's time to finally get this done, long overdue.
I'm clear on everything except the part about the pancake-tuna can cooler, last night's quick glance in the engine bay didn't reveal anything. DrWebster, if you have a few extra minutes, would you mind snapping a photo of what it looks like? I found that link at the "competing forum", the method is just as you described and seems pretty simple. I figured if I can't locate the little cooler then I'll just drain and fill without a flush, should be better than nothing. Need to do this along with an oil/filter chance, air filter changes, and take a peek at some squeaky brakes (and I have no clue how to diagnose brakes
)
Your help was, and still is, greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I'm clear on everything except the part about the pancake-tuna can cooler, last night's quick glance in the engine bay didn't reveal anything. DrWebster, if you have a few extra minutes, would you mind snapping a photo of what it looks like? I found that link at the "competing forum", the method is just as you described and seems pretty simple. I figured if I can't locate the little cooler then I'll just drain and fill without a flush, should be better than nothing. Need to do this along with an oil/filter chance, air filter changes, and take a peek at some squeaky brakes (and I have no clue how to diagnose brakes
) Your help was, and still is, greatly appreciated. Thanks!
