Anyone have an easy way to do your own tire rotation?

Quickjacks are awesome! Only reason I haven't bought some is I'll be building a shop in the near future, and I'm going to install a 4 post lift.
 
I only drive 3,500 miles/year so it's only an annual thing along with oil change. I use the spare tire, factory jack method. I clean off the inside of the wheels and air up each tire and spare to specs. I use the owner's manual crisscross/front to back method. My HF wrench is set to 95 lbs. Re-tighten lugs after 50-100 miles.
 
I rotate same side as mentioned earlier, at around 5-7,000 miles and not along with oil changes which are separate. It's a good time to 'walk' the tire thru a full rotation checking for cuts, nails, bubbles or any tire damage on tread and both sidewalls. Maybe dig out a few small pebbles. Also check for feathering across the tread and feel around the circumference for odd wear. Check and record tread depth at each groove. Quick glance to check for signs of missing balance weights (clean spot on the always dirty inner wheel surface) and overall visual check. Maybe catch any problems early. They're the only thing between me and the road at 70 mph.
Torqued to ~100 ft-lbs . Since they get torqued in steps of roughly 40, 70 and 100, it's quicker and easier to use a beam type (with pointer) torque wrench than adjusting a clicker torque wrench. Thru the years they consistently loosen at~80 when torqued to 100. I don't even bother to recheck at 50-100 miles later except for new aluminum wheels. They never come loose. A beam type torque wrench with short extension and appropriate socket has lived in the trunk of my vehicles since the 1970's. I guess a person just goes with what works for them.
 
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If your tires are directional, you can only rotate them front to rear.
If not, cross/X-rotation is OK.
I use a hydraulic jack and a jack stand to do the same side rotation.
 
New car with warranty I'll play suck it up and deal with the extra cost of a shop with oil changes that offer free tire rotations. Some shop do it $20. Let's say oil change is $50 at current market price. 36k warranty means about 5 oil change. So $250.

Option 2) Sam and I think Walmart (ones with a auto shop) Offer a lifetime tire rotation plan for $12 each tires. So $48 get you the rotations. Both I advise to get through door like 7/8 AM. First in line. PS Walmart is best for oil changes, because they don't do anything else. They don't need to damage to your vehicle for possible job or* BS on what things you MUST do or you might die.

Option 3. Once tires needs to be replaced. Buy from Costco, Sam, BJ. They will offer free tire rotations etc. Pep boy etc charge you EXTRA for this services.
 
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New car with warranty I'll play suck it up and deal with the extra cost of a shop with oil changes that offer free tire rotations. Some shop do it $20. Let's say oil change is $50 at current market price. 36k warranty means about 5 oil change. So $250.

Option 2) Sam and I think Walmart (ones with a auto shop) Offer a lifetime tire rotation plan for $12 each tires. So $48 get you the rotations. Both I advise to get through door like 7/8 AM. First in line. PS Walmart is best for oil changes, because they don't do anything else. They don't need damage your of BS on what things you MUST do or you might die.

Option 3. Once tires needs to be replaced. Buy from Costco, Sam, BJ. They will offer free tire rotations etc. Pep boy etc charge you EXTRA for this services.

Option 4, Do the work yourself.

"They don't need damage your of BS on what things you MUST do or you might die."

I tried to decode decipher figure out what you're trying to say here, care to help me out?
 
Option 4, Do the work yourself.

"They don't need damage your of BS on what things you MUST do or you might die."

I tried to decode decipher figure out what you're trying to say here, care to help me out?
Pretty easy to begin with. I don't know how to make something like that easier other than learning to use a torque wrench, don't have to recheck some one else's work.
 
New car with warranty I'll play suck it up and deal with the extra cost of a shop with oil changes that offer free tire rotations. Some shop do it $20. Let's say oil change is $50 at current market price. 36k warranty means about 5 oil change. So $250.

Option 2) Sam and I think Walmart (ones with a auto shop) Offer a lifetime tire rotation plan for $12 each tires. So $48 get you the rotations. Both I advise to get through door like 7/8 AM. First in line. PS Walmart is best for oil changes, because they don't do anything else. They don't need damage your of BS on what things you MUST do or you might die.

Option 3. Once tires needs to be replaced. Buy from Costco, Sam, BJ. They will offer free tire rotations etc. Pep boy etc charge you EXTRA for this services.
I would not use Walmart for ongoing service. They are a nightmare to deal with. I bought tires from them, but that’s a one time thing. I do rotations myself. Take it to a dealer if you have too, or a local tire shop.
 
They don't need to damage to your vehicle for possible job or* BS on what things you MUST do or you might die.

Sorry was typing on the phone at night and a tad sleepy.

I had an experience where some shop went out of their way to damage my vehicle. Saying "someone strip a shock bolt", they charged me $50 for removal and $30 for a larger bolt. This was my first ever shock replacement...

At most tire shop, even if your tires are good. They would deny the tire rotations. Saying they can't do it for safety reason. It has to be a minimum thickness via their own policy. Pushing you to buy a new set. It was a joke, since it was pretty new.

For those who don't want to hassle with learning or keeping a torque wrench a "Digital Torque Adapter" are much easier. Dont need to release pressure each time. I use this on top of my torque wrench 😂.

"QUINN 1/2 in. Drive 25-250 ft. lb. Digital Torque Adapter "--$40
 
Walmart Auto locations a hit or miss, really depend on the community. But just tossing options out there. Some rural town got nothing you can count on.
 
That's the first time that I've seen one of these "digital torque adapters". I took a look at Amazon.

The prices are right up there with a halfway decent wrench. But I suppose these adapters may have their place. One of the problems I see is that with the size of these things you may not be able to get them into tight spots.
 
Well this topic was for tires rotation. You will have plenty of room. What is nice about this brand is lifetime warranty. If this or my cheap $10 item isn't matching up, I would know.

I'm not a pro, just tires, brake, spark plugs. I might do my belts / pumps one day. There is this you YouTube guy that went through it on his cx 9 for us.

Biggest "tight" issue you will have is probably the nuts for brake system. Since it is facing inside, most torque wrench by design is too long to access. Then hopefully you can get enough leverage or strong to enough the higher numbers. I think one is up to 75 foot lb. Removing hard bolts I have my compact Hart brushless driver ($20 sale) with the small adaptor head. This remove most brake bolts. But one top one, due to clearance of shock. I might look into a wobble try my racket M12. Always a learning process for us weekend warriors.

My older brother whom show me the ropes hand and feel.
 
That's the first time that I've seen one of these "digital torque adapters". I took a look at Amazon.

The prices are right up there with a halfway decent wrench. But I suppose these adapters may have their place. One of the problems I see is that with the size of these things you may not be able to get them into tight spots.
I have a digital torque adapter that I picked up NIB at a good price on ebay. It's the "Bikemaster" brand and is identical to some others (including the "Powerbuilt 940962 on Amazon), some of which differ cosmetically. It covers 27.5-147.5 FT-Lbs. It's identical to the early version (no longer sold) of the Harbor Freight Quinn. Basically it's just a 3" extension with 1 or 2 strain gages bonded to the sides of it and some circuitry in a case with buttons. I bought it to check my TW calibration not to use on the end of a breaker bar.
They have 2 modes. One where you preset the target torque and leds flash with beeping as you approach the target. The other captures the highest reading which is what I want to see when the TW releases at it's setting.
Here's a guy on youtube with a few tests on adapters and other tools (incl. TW's). He actually does a decent job in his videos. There are reviews on other YT channels as well. I find it useful but won't deny the 'toy factor' as well.


 
Torqued to ~100 ft-lbs . Since they get torqued in steps of roughly 40, 70 and 100, it's quicker and easier to use a beam type (with pointer) torque wrench than adjusting a clicker torque wrench. Thru the years they consistently loosen at~80 when torqued to 100. I don't even bother to recheck at 50-100 miles later except for new aluminum wheels. They never come loose. A beam type torque wrench with short extension and appropriate socket has lived in the trunk of my vehicles since the 1970's. I guess a person just goes with what works for them.
Jeez, I didn't think anybody used these anymore. I have 2 I bought in the late 70s, must have used them less than a dozen times.
 

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Jeez, I didn't think anybody used these anymore. I have 2 I bought in the late 70s, must have used them less than a dozen times.
Yea well, sometimes simpler is quicker and it's been mainly reserved for lugs. And that style served well for 25 years until my first clicker many years ago. It's still in my suv and also handy to check loosening torque if I have the tires rotated someplace like for a free rotation and balance check. You know, you request 100 ft-lbs and they torque to 200. In instances like this my cordless impact has been a back saver before me retorquing the lugs.
BUT, since I posted that months ago, I acquired a 1/2" drive clicker which is kind of nice in that I don't have to look at a scale while pulling at the same time. Actually, I possess 2 other (1/4" and 3/8") clickers for in-lb and lower ft-lb (10-100) applications. So, 1 oldie out of 4 TW's ain't bad.
 
I still have a couple of beam type torque wrenches in my toolbox, I haven't used them in years though.
 

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