Alignment/Tracking

[Neofolis]

I have just bought some 235/35x19 tyres to replace my existing 215/35's and asked my local garage to check the alignment/tracking, because the current tyres are showing an uneven wear pattern. The guy at the garage said, he would need to have figures to set everything to, because the change of wheel/tyre size from standard would effect how everything should be set.

He gave me a list of the default values for a standard Mazda6 sport, which has values for camber, toe-in, castor, KPI(SAI), lock angles, etc. I just wondered if anyone with a similar wheel/tyre setup has got a print out after their alignment was done, which may show how everything was set and if you are happy that everything is as it should be.

If someone could either list correct values or, preferably, attach a copy of the print out, that would be extremely helpful. I get the distinct impression that the mechanic doesn't want to touch it without me giving him the information beforehand.

 

[batou079]

running 19s eh! wow. Rubbing at all? had to roll/shave fenders?

not sure how much different from stock your Toe/camber & overal alignment would need to be.
But most mechanics should have shop manual access for speed6's to figure that out.
I looked up some of this info here on 247 the other day cause i gotta get alignment soon due to messed up toe & camber. Here is what i found (i forgot what thread it was):

Mazda allows up to 1/4" toe-in (measured at tires), front or rear. This will be "in spec" and eat up tires and mpg's. Alignment shops hope to do minimal adjustments for the fixed price deals.

*** MS6 spec's from an alignment sheet ***

For M6 OEM Alignment Spec's, Check the steering pull link below. (note 17' = 17 minutes = 17/60 =.28 deg)


Suggested Alignment Spec

For street use, pay extra if needed, but set front and rear total toe-in at .09 deg +/- .04 deg ( .04" +/- .02" @ tire ). Rear camber of -1.6 deg MS6, and -1.1 M6 deg (spec targets), +/-.2 deg. [ Be clear about the toe spec units: degrees is typically used]

Ask for their before and after alignment data sheets.

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If you care about handling, SPC adjustable front ball joints is a must. Mazda front camber spec is between +.7 deg and -1.28 deg. I'd start at 1.2 deg negative. +/.- .2 deg. This will also reduce excessive wear of the outer edge when enjoying the curves.

SPC Ball Joints

SPC Installation

For autox, drag, or circuit driving, others can suggest more aggressive spec's. But this gets you in the right ball park for normal use.

If you run wide 40 series tires, and don't corner hard a lot at track events, high neg camber (-2 deg or more) will wear out the inner tire edges.

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Steering Pull TSB

If car pulls to the right, make sure right front caster is greater than left. Special upper control arms are available to change caster:

Steering Pull TSB, M6

The MS6 has same front upper control arms as the M6. Lower control arms have stiffer bushings.


(revised 4-09)

 

[Neofolis]

With the current 215/35's on an 8" rim with 45 offset, the is no rubbing and no need to roll fenders, but the <3" sidewall is no good for the roads here. The low sidewall and drop on H&R springs makes the car so rigid that you feel every little bump. I think this is part of the problem. Where I have hit occasional potholes, either driving at night or I couldn't avoid them on narrow roads with oncoming traffic, it is damaging the wheels and may have knocked out the alignment as well. The switch to 235/35 means I will have to get the fenders rolled, but hopefully the extra sidewall will make the ride a bit smoother and protect the rims and alignment to some extent.