Aftermarket stereo and information display

[Kevbodian]

So I've looked through the archive and I can't quite find a definitive answer for the following:

If I install an aftermarket HU, will I lose all fields in the information display currently located above the stock HU?

It now has TIME | CD INFO | CLIMATE

I have seen many pictures with TIME only. I don't think I can live without the CLIMATE info... losing the CD info doesn't matter to me.

Examples:

Image from a Japanese site shows CLIMATE info OK! http://kanatechs.jp/tbx/t002.html

This thread shows TIME only (because CLIMATE is lost or because the key is not turned to ON position?; not clear).

This post shows CLIMATE but no TIME.

This post shows TIME and CLIMATE.

I checked the kanatachs kit but not only is it expensive but the SWC for the kanatechs kit is also crazy expensive. Lastly, I am installing a Sony XAV-62BT (don't need nav; boxing day special). Sony's site says it's 178mm wide; kanatechs and ?other kits? fit up to 170mm wide. Am I screwed before I even start?

Am I over-thinking this "issue"?


Separate issue but well done here. Modified the aftermarket harness to have 2 extra pins for SWC.

 

[Rally Man]

Both time and climate info are shown. I've installed an aftermarket unit on mine, only the radio information is not shown.

 

[djchris721]

So I've looked through the archive and I can't quite find a definitive answer for the following:

If I install an aftermarket HU, will I lose all fields in the information display currently located above the stock HU?

It now has TIME | CD INFO | CLIMATE

I have seen many pictures with TIME only. I don't think I can live without the CLIMATE info... losing the CD info doesn't matter to me.

Examples:

Image from a Japanese site shows CLIMATE info OK! http://kanatechs.jp/tbx/t002.html

This thread shows TIME only (because CLIMATE is lost or because the key is not turned to ON position?; not clear).

This post shows CLIMATE but no TIME.

This post shows TIME and CLIMATE.

I checked the kanatachs kit but not only is it expensive but the SWC for the kanatechs kit is also crazy expensive. Lastly, I am installing a Sony XAV-62BT (don't need nav; boxing day special). Sony's site says it's 178mm wide; kanatechs and ?other kits? fit up to 170mm wide. Am I screwed before I even start?

Am I over-thinking this "issue"?


Separate issue but well done here. Modified the aftermarket harness to have 2 extra pins for SWC.

the mazda 5 display is different from the Mazda 3 since the mazda 3's power comes from the OEM headunit, there is a bracket that you can put to install the stock display led screen for the mazda 3, the mazda 5 led display is not powered by the OEM headunit, the link that you posted climate only is because that is for the mazda 3 and that's how my MS3 led screen looks like, the link that you posted that shows both time and climate is for the mazda 5.

And yes you are overthinking this issues, I installed a kenwood double din on my MZ5 and i used the Metra Kit, I will take pics later and post it.

 

[Kevbodian]

the mazda 5 display is different from the Mazda 3 since the mazda 3's power comes from the OEM headunit, there is a bracket that you can put to install the stock display led screen for the mazda 3, the mazda 5 led display is not powered by the OEM headunit, the link that you posted climate only is because that is for the mazda 3 and that's how my MS3 led screen looks like, the link that you posted that shows both time and climate is for the mazda 5.

And yes you are overthinking this issues, I installed a kenwood double din on my MZ5 and i used the Metra Kit, I will take pics later and post it.

Hey thanks. I haven't installed a deck in over 10 years. Back then I didn't have to think about these things or SWC... I returned the Sony HU as it seems that Sony hasn't really improved their quality in this segment in all this time. I may go with the Pioneer AVH-P3300BT instead.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Kevbodian]

So I returned the Sony unit and was going to get the Pioneer but then I had a horrible thought that made me back out completely. The thought was something along the lines of: "sh*t, am I spending $400 (deck plus wiring and dash kit) plus a few hours of my time just to listen to MP3 in the car?"

I will do the following instead:

1. I bought this case for my iPhone 4S: The Rokbed v3 with the extended RMS.

2. Following the instructions here, I am installing the audio cable from the back of the deck and having it output where the MD player would output. I will also wire an iPod cable in there to charge the phone if needed. I believe that pin 15 should be the ACC power and I can ground to the car or pin 1 (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

Case with accessories listed and not listed is $80 including shipping to Canada ($27). CDROM cable in step 2 is free if you can find it or $3 for the crimp pins from Radioshack/TheSource.ca (276-1428: SKU good at either store). All-in-all, $85 CAD and I'll have a device with video, GPS, etc all for ~22% of the cost of a head-unit.


Wow, new idea. Update coming.

 

[bretthn]

That is great. I used the same basic setup initially but got annoyed having to plug in 2 cables to charge and get audio output. I got my wife the Parrot MKI9200 bluetooth kit for xmas and it is awesome for using with and ipod/iphone. It is primarily a bluetooth car kit that links through the factory radio, but it also has an ipod cable, usb, headphone audio input, bluetooth music streaming and control, and many other features we have not used yet. I was able to pick it up on Amazon brand new for $139 US dollars.
PS. I love that iphone case/mount, I may have to pick one up!

 

[Heat]

Take a look at 1-DIN stereos, like the Sony GT740UI:

US$160 at Crutchfield, kit and harness included, and shipping (I assume they ship to Canada for free).

You can use your iPod or flash drives. I just picked up this flash drive for US$6 from Staples, it is so small that a penny almost completely covers it:

I had picked up the 4GB version, there are 42 complete albums on it with each album being at 196 or 256 kbps (good quality). You can pick up the 8GB or the 16 GB versions if you want, etc. Here is a picture of the flash drive in my aftermarket radio in my Mazda5, for all practical purposes this flash drive is flush with the radio.

With this flash drive there is no more issue of a flash drive sticking out of the radio or being a different color, etc.

And with a 1-DIN radio, you get a storage pocket under the radio.

 

[Silentnoise713]

So I returned the Sony unit and was going to get the Pioneer but then I had a horrible thought that made me back out completely. The thought was something along the lines of: "sh*t, am I spending $400 (deck plus wiring and dash kit) plus a few hours of my time just to listen to MP3 in the car?"

I will do the following instead:

1. I bought this case for my iPhone 4S: The Rokbed v3 with the extended RMS.

2. Following the instructions here, I am installing the audio cable from the back of the deck and having it output where the MD player would output. I will also wire an iPod cable in there to charge the phone if needed. I believe that pin 15 should be the ACC power and I can ground to the car or pin 1 (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

Case with accessories listed and not listed is $80 including shipping to Canada ($27). CDROM cable in step 2 is free if you can find it or $3 for the crimp pins from Radioshack/TheSource.ca (276-1428: SKU good at either store). All-in-all, $85 CAD and I'll have a device with video, GPS, etc all for ~22% of the cost of a head-unit.


Wow, new idea. Update coming.

Props to you for having that ah-ha moment!

I am ‘trying’ to integrate my iPhone with the OEM radio but can’t seem to find a good place to put it (dash and windshield mount is out). I prefer a hiddend hardwired solution and got the iPhone 30pin to USB and Lineout (3.5 mm) wire. Note that built-in speakers and headphone out will NOT produce sound once this is connected. You have to use the line out. Also, I find there is a buzz when using the car’s Aux-in and charging at the same time, but no buzz if not charging. I think grounding is not very robust (what a surprise) and may need a ground loop isolator if you want to use both. Anyone else experience buzzing from aux-in or is it just me b/c I am using the same device plugged into the charger and aux-in?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

I am using the Otter case (kids will destroy it) but recently learned about this Lifeproof case. Ridiculously expensive for a case but science and technology is amazing. Now I have to rethink the mount, which I didn’t have an answer for yet !
http://www.lifeproof.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuDerD9F3sQ

I am NOT an Apple fan but ease of use of the iPhone + 3G (damn it, where's the 4G) is amazing. Just need Apple to open their source so someone can make an external camera and we have backup camera to boot. Don't need anything else for ICE.

 

[Kevbodian]

I have been charged for the case so I assume it has been sent. With Canada Post being fairly inept and the busy Christmas mail rush still going on (mainly due to the inept part), I'm willing to wait a little while for delivery.

I went to TheSource and purchased a 30W soldering iron and 60/40 rosin core 0.062" solder wire. I ordered the USB/Audio/30pin cable but have since found one for free, locally. I nabbed the front-USB motherboard cables out of an old box and will use those to wire up to the deck (the gauge looks really small but perhaps it's enough as the connected pins in the 30pin connector are almost surely just as thin).

Futureshop has a Kensington USB-CLA and USB-cable for $10.99. Picked up one of these.

The attached picture shows the parts I will use to connect the setup.

Here you can see the BMW Apple 30pin to 3.5mm audio and USB. Beside that you can see a soldered black connection and a jumper with 3 leads.

Black to black is for PIN 1 and PIN 13.
jumper with 3 leads is for PIN 3, 5, 7 (audio l/r, audio l/r, audio gnd)

Kensington USB CLA will have power and ground soldered appropriately with the USB cable plugged in. The audio cable will be connected to a female plug soldered to the USB jumper as above. Thinking I will have the USB CLA mounted in a 35mm film container and just solder the power/gnd directly to the CL contacts.

Take a look at 1-DIN stereos, like the Sony GT740UI:

US$160 at Crutchfield, kit and harness included, and shipping (I assume they ship to Canada for free).

You can use your iPod or flash drives. I just picked up this flash drive for US$6 from Staples, it is so small that a penny almost completely covers it:

I had picked up the 4GB version, there are 42 complete albums on it with each album being at 196 or 256 kbps (good quality). You can pick up the 8GB or the 16 GB versions if you want, etc. Here is a picture of the flash drive in my aftermarket radio in my Mazda5, for all practical purposes this flash drive is flush with the radio.

With this flash drive there is no more issue of a flash drive sticking out of the radio or being a different color, etc.

And with a 1-DIN radio, you get a storage pocket under the radio.

The single DIN is not a bad option. The dash kit and harness are less than $50 online and a single DIN deck with USB support is about $60-80. While this would work, it still may not be as clean as a behind-the-dash install. I like the idea of a double DIN video player so I can install a Super Nintendo into the cavernous Mazda5 glove-box. I like that a new deck would bring the stock speakers a new lease on life but I also like the OEM look.

Props to you for having that ah-ha moment!

I am ‘trying’ to integrate my iPhone with the OEM radio but can’t seem to find a good place to put it (dash and windshield mount is out). I prefer a hiddend hardwired solution and got the iPhone 30pin to USB and Lineout (3.5 mm) wire. Note that built-in speakers and headphone out will NOT produce sound once this is connected. You have to use the line out. Also, I find there is a buzz when using the car’s Aux-in and charging at the same time, but no buzz if not charging. I think grounding is not very robust (what a surprise) and may need a ground loop isolator if you want to use both. Anyone else experience buzzing from aux-in or is it just me b/c I am using the same device plugged into the charger and aux-in?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

There was another thread showing the same modification but they actually put a 100-Ohm resister between pin 1 and 13. I wonder if this would eliminate the buzz or if the ground loop isolator is absolutely necessary. 100 Ohm is very small; may actually be useless.

Here's the link.

I am using the Otter case (kids will destroy it) but recently learned about this Lifeproof case. Ridiculously expensive for a case but science and technology is amazing. Now I have to rethink the mount, which I didn’t have an answer for yet !
http://www.lifeproof.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuDerD9F3sQ

If you can live with the looks of the Rokbed. It seems like a great deal. I even got the magnet attachment so I can attach my iPhone to my motorcycle for GPS and/or texting

 

[Kevbodian]

So I did it and it works flawlessly. Pics and write up are including this picasaweb link:

http://bit.ly/AB2cQK