So i took mine apart just now. I experience the same works in #1 and sometimes 4 but never 2 and 3. Now that i have everything disassembled all fan settings work. I did notice that when left in the 2 and 3 positions the ground wire and the fat green wire from terminal D get very hot. enought to burn. I checked the voltages as requested. I was at very odd numbers. From the manual i dont get understand which harness is in section 7-40-12. If i could just figure that out.
A/C only works in position 1 & 4
- Thread starter trbomp5
- Start date
i got my new hvac control unit and installed it. no suprise it works perfact. i will now tinker around with the old one, but IMO it's better to just go and get a new one. i have found that if you try to fix it, you get about a month or so before it starts up again! it's not that expensive and if you get throught Ken, it comes with the cables that work the dials.
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- '06 MX-5 Miata
Ah! I haven't had this happen to me yet, but I had a dream about it the other night! That can't be good! (peep)
Anyways, is there a way to prevent this from happening? (Sorry if this has been answered already- I didn't read through all 9 pages.) Thanks!
Anyways, is there a way to prevent this from happening? (Sorry if this has been answered already- I didn't read through all 9 pages.) Thanks!
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- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
khaosman said:Crap just started happening to me the other day... then I remembered seeing this thread, and lo and behold, it is bumped!I might go bug the stealership sometime.
if they dont warranty it for you i will beat thier best price on the part
Canecreekfreak said:
It's coming to get you!!!! *goes to your car and swaps my HVAC control unit with your HVAC control unit* BWAHAHAa I win
(cabpatch)As for your question, wow I actually don't think it has been discussed before. If anyone has any ideas for preventative maintenance for this issue, post away. Mine has been in the "A/C only works in position 1 & 4" for over two years now.. doesn't bother me much at all, definitely not enough to spend nearly 200 on a new unit. Who uses A/C anyway?
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- Completely Stock P5
Still ****** here...
zoomzoom02
Member
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- Protege ES
I have noticed this on my car...only on #2. It only stayed off once, so I flicked things around and it came back on, otherwise it just takes 3-4 seconds to come on. So I assume I am headed towards the same hell as everyone else? I have less than 10k on my warranty (Thank God for extend warranty), so I guess I should get it in.
RallyeRedSi
Member
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- 2008 Civic Si
yeah my 2 doesn't work, i gotta take my car in for soem warrenty work fast im at 45,000 miles
mine was actin up the other day, i put it on 2 and the light flickered but then stayed on.......it doesnt really bother me much, the only time the a/c is on is when the girlfriend is in the car (blah) any other time i have the windows down and the sunroof open lol
zoomzoom02
Member
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- Protege ES
Same thing here, but I gotta have a/c here in Arizona. There is no way I can drive in 115 temps without it, or even more so getting into your car when its been sitting. Then the inside of the car is more like 150
SUREFIRE FIX!
OK, I know it has been a while since people were working on this, but I have finally fixed my AC!! I know what is going wrong here, and why so many people have replaced the unit only to have their A/C still not work.
Being entirely fed up with my A/c being completely random, only working in position 1 and flipping my switches inbetween 2 and three with a very careful touch in order to make it work, I ordered a new control unit from a 2003 protege. I swapped it out expecting to see all my problems dissappear. Unfortunately, my A/C still acted EXACTLY THE SAME. I knew something was up..
I knew my wiring was a little bit melted on the top connecter right behind the Fan speed knob. But I previously thought that it wasnt an issue, but I felt around and noticed that my top left wire (see image) felt very stiff once it started entering the white plastic clip. It looked like the wire itself was completely burnt out!
moving on this hunch, I decided to replace my slightly melted connector and splice and solder in a new wire about 6 inches back from the connector to replace the burnt out wire. to unclip the wires going into the old connector, and put them in a new connector, get a pin, and push it inside the clips from the front and push the white clip inside each wire hole up to allow the wire and copper contact to slip out. then slip all your wires in the same order into the new connector.
after I did this everything works perfectly! So, basically, you dont need to switch out the control unit on this, you need to switch out the burnt wiring!
Here is a shot of my burnt out connector that was ripped out and replaced. Keep in mind that the black wire was the real culprit in why the A/C has problems
OK, I know it has been a while since people were working on this, but I have finally fixed my AC!! I know what is going wrong here, and why so many people have replaced the unit only to have their A/C still not work.
Being entirely fed up with my A/c being completely random, only working in position 1 and flipping my switches inbetween 2 and three with a very careful touch in order to make it work, I ordered a new control unit from a 2003 protege. I swapped it out expecting to see all my problems dissappear. Unfortunately, my A/C still acted EXACTLY THE SAME. I knew something was up..
I knew my wiring was a little bit melted on the top connecter right behind the Fan speed knob. But I previously thought that it wasnt an issue, but I felt around and noticed that my top left wire (see image) felt very stiff once it started entering the white plastic clip. It looked like the wire itself was completely burnt out!
moving on this hunch, I decided to replace my slightly melted connector and splice and solder in a new wire about 6 inches back from the connector to replace the burnt out wire. to unclip the wires going into the old connector, and put them in a new connector, get a pin, and push it inside the clips from the front and push the white clip inside each wire hole up to allow the wire and copper contact to slip out. then slip all your wires in the same order into the new connector.
after I did this everything works perfectly! So, basically, you dont need to switch out the control unit on this, you need to switch out the burnt wiring!
Here is a shot of my burnt out connector that was ripped out and replaced. Keep in mind that the black wire was the real culprit in why the A/C has problems
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- Completely Stock P5
Can the connector be ordered by itself fro mthe dealer?
my connector says 6F in the back. the dealer should have a parts catalog to be able to order one I imagine. I just used the one that came with my replacement control unit, it had both connectors, as it had just been cut out by the wires and had both connectors in place.
if your original connector isnt burned too badly, you could try just splicing a new wire end in, as long as it connects in ok if you replace the wire it should still work.
if your original connector isnt burned too badly, you could try just splicing a new wire end in, as long as it connects in ok if you replace the wire it should still work.
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- Protege5 2003
Why was it burned in the first place?
Generally when a wire shows signs of heat damage it's a side effect of the real problem, not the cause of it. The main exception being when the conductor was broken inside the wire, and the heat damage resulted from arcing or overheating of a tiny contact region between the conductors.
You are absolutely correct, If you dont want this to happen again a couple years down the road, you would need to beef up the metal connector on the wire that clips into the plastic connection housing. It would be hard to find a clip that was heavier duty and still fit inside the plastic housing though. I guess you could solder the wire directly to the a/c control unit as well, but then you couldnt remove it again very easily.... I figure that if it starts to do it again a couple years down the road, I can just splice a new wire on there again, now that I know how to fix it.
rednecks_r_us
Member
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- 2003 Laser Blue Protege5
My 2003 P5 A/C is not working in the #2 or 3 position. I'll have to pull it apart and check the wires.
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- Protege5 2003
Is the connector you illustrated the one on page 13 of
http://protege5.ugly.net/07-40.PDF
?
I'd still be a bit worried about why that one wire burned out. It looks like you're referring to the wiring bundle that runs to the resistor pack near the blower. You might want to pull that resistor pack and inspect it for damage and check that the correct resistor values are present. It's easy to get to, see page 6 of that PDF. I can't help wondering if there might not be a little bit of loose wire floating around in the vicinity of the resistor pack that can intermittently short the wire that burned out to ground. If such a short did appear the blower wouldn't turn (no voltage) and the connecting wire could burn out anywhere along its length, but most likely at one or the other ends at the connector. It should also blow a fuse. Has your car ever blown that fuse?
Yes it is the one on page 13, (wire is number A in their diagram) I just illustrated my diagram looking into the connector rather than behind it looking at the wires. it is the wire bunch that hook in almost directly behind the 1 2 3 4 DIAL.
Never blown a fuse. I think the problem is most likely what you originally said, there is a tiny contact region. The wire is a very bulky wire, but the metal connector contact is very thin and not nearly as thick as the wire itself.
