2016 CX-5 Rear Caliper TSB

Was doing some investigation on the potential sources of the brake judder/pulsation I'm getting with our CX-5 and found this R052/16C TSB. Unfortunately our VIN is of the effected cars. We are the second owner and the Carfax history does show some maintenance with the rear brakes a few times but nothing that explicitly states "replaced rear calipers". For example in 2020 it was serviced and the description lists:
- Brake fluid flushed/changed
- rear brakes replaced
- front brakes replaced
- brake pads replaced
- brake rotor(s) replaced

I'm guessing the "rear brakes replaced / front brakes replaced" is just reiterating what is described below it, but maybe I'm wrong and that means the calipers were replaced. The reason I bring this up is the TSB specifically states that rear calipers with lot numbers above "697" are modified and considered okay.

Now the rear driver side caliper has a LOT number of what looks like "985" but could very well be "885" or "835" or "935". The number's are also flipped/inversed so that you have to essentially read them upside down from looking outside in. Regardless, any of these combinations seems to be of the modified lots. What's interesting is the first two numbers are much smaller and closer together than the "5".

But on the rear passenger side caliper, the numbers are orientated what looks like normally and are not flipped. If you look at them how you would normally it would be "189". But the "8" has a bigger circle on the top suggesting it might be upside down. I'm curious which way is the proper way to read it and if numbers were flipped indiscriminately. The "1" has a base unlike the font on this forum shows. So if you flipped it, it would look like a "T". I'm thinking it might actually be "681" for that caliper and the "6" and "8" were printed normally (well inversed like the driver side caliper) while the "1" was accidently flipped (orientated normally).

This is peculiar because the driver side caliper looks like its of the modified calipers, but there is no previous history stating it was replaced. My vin says the car was manufactured in August of 2016 which is within the September 2016 Vin limit for defective rear calipers. I'll be taking the wheels off soon and checking for brake drag in the rear once I get one of those jacking point pinch weld adapters for my floor jack. I'll take pictures then of the LOT numbers for both sides.

Also as a side not, how accurate is the age old "if you feel shaking/judder in the pedal its the rear brakes; if you feel shaking/judder in the steering wheel its the front brakes"?
 




Managed to get a closer look. Above are videos of spinning each rear wheel while both rear wheels were off the ground. Is this sort of drag normal?

Rotor surface looks good, and the pads on both sides were wearing evenly. Now as for the caliper 3-digit lot code, the driver-side definitely says "985" which means it should be spared from the defect. As for the passenger, reading it upside down just like I had to do for the driver-side, says "68T". If you were to reverse that and read it right-side up, it says "189".

Any insight into this? Looks like another thread did mention possibly having a letter in their Lot code. The pulsation we're getting during breaking is mostly felt in the pedal and the whole car shaking, its mostly at highway speeds too. This would suggest something wrong with the rear but I guess it's not a hard fast rule?
 
You are also spinning a driveshaft, and a differential. That looks normal, but I haven't tried that. The pads are also making light touch, too.
 
I agree with skid00skid0, it looks normal. I just rebuilt my rear caliper and worked with EPB setting for 3 days. It can be a nightmare to get it right. and still when i turn on parking brake by pushing down the button, later I can't just lift that button up to release the brake. I have a red-light footing-pedal icon on the dash, so I have to push the accelerator pedal once to disengage the parking brake. But I don't have any brake warning lights on the dashboard. I wish I would know how to fix it. Anyone has any idea, please help.
 
Rear caliper replacement isn't an issue unless you're experiencing rear lockup of the brakes due to the parking brake not releasing properly, I had this happen to me and rear brakes got really hot. Also had them replaced under the TSB while the car was still under warranty. I would suspect the rear rotors particularly if the lug nuts were over torqued which could cause them to warp. How many miles are on the car since the rear brakes were replaced? Also as someone else pointed out, there's a lot of other things spinning back there which could cause a vibration.
"If you feel shaking/judder in the pedal its the rear brakes; if you feel shaking/judder in the steering wheel its the front brakes" is a good place to start.
 
The shaking/judder if I remember correctly shakes the whole car, pedal, and steering wheel but only really does it when slowing down at highway speeds. I’m not sure that rule is hard fast about feeling it in the pedal it is definitely the rear brakes etc as I’ve dealt with that situation on my vehicle and it was always the front rotors.

What I’m worried about is replacing all of the rotors only to have them warp again because the rear calipers are defective. I feel like it’s most likely the front rotors as they have visible deposits on them where as the rear don’t and the rear pads are wearing evenly. But judder is definitely felt in the pedal at highway speeds when braking.

We had the vehicle checked out at Mazda recently for other reasons and they said the wheel bearings all checked out. But even with a little wheel bearing play these are side pull calipers so that wouldn’t cause the rotors to warp. If it were fixed 4 pot calipers that’d be a different story.
 
The shaking/judder if I remember correctly shakes the whole car, pedal, and steering wheel but only really does it when slowing down at highway speeds. I’m not sure that rule is hard fast about feeling it in the pedal it is definitely the rear brakes etc as I’ve dealt with that situation on my vehicle and it was always the front rotors.

What I’m worried about is replacing all of the rotors only to have them warp again because the rear calipers are defective. I feel like it’s most likely the front rotors as they have visible deposits on them where as the rear don’t and the rear pads are wearing evenly. But judder is definitely felt in the pedal at highway speeds when braking.

We had the vehicle checked out at Mazda recently for other reasons and they said the wheel bearings all checked out. But even with a little wheel bearing play these are side pull calipers so that wouldn’t cause the rotors to warp. If it were fixed 4 pot calipers that’d be a different story.
My experience is that 'judder' is felt on brake pedal with warped front rotors and seat of pants for rear rotors when slowing down from highway speeds. You might check rotor runout with a dial indicator after making sure the hub and rotor mating surfaces are clean and smooth.
 
I feel like it’s most likely the front rotors as they have visible deposits on them
You can correct that by 'bedding' the brakes. Go to a place where you can safely accelerate to 60 mph, brake fairly hard to 10ish mph, then repeat twice more. Then LET the brakes COOL down for 10 minutes or so. This will heat the disk and pads up to the point new pad material is thinly deposited on the rotors.

I do this after every brake job I do (not a mechanic).
 
You can correct that by 'bedding' the brakes. Go to a place where you can safely accelerate to 60 mph, brake fairly hard to 10ish mph, then repeat twice more. Then LET the brakes COOL down for 10 minutes or so. This will heat the disk and pads up to the point new pad material is thinly deposited on the rotors.

I do this after every brake job I do (not a mechanic).
They are maybe 3-4 years old; I know the whole debate about rotors not being physically warped just pad material deposit, I wont claim either position but do you think its worth trying to re-bed them on rotors that old?

I do know if they are factory Mazda rotors I'm going to get them turned before I even try replacing them. If they are just cheap aftermarket I'll throw on a new set. Are there any reports of the front caliper pistons getting lazy and needing replacement?
 
I do know if they are factory Mazda rotors I'm going to get them turned before I even try replacing them. If they are just cheap aftermarket I'll throw on a new set
Regarding rotors/pads, I believe that most aftermarket ones would be a better option compared to factory/original due to bad rust issues
 
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