2016 CX-5 Drive belt pricing

yrwei52 said:
Actually this has nothing to do with Mazda North American Operations. MNAO won’t cover your leaky tensioner, period, since you’re out of new-car warranty at 40,000 miles in addition to your 2018 CX-5 is way over 3 years old.



No, your 2018 CX-5 has run out of new-car warranty long ago which is 3 years or 36,000 miles. The leaky timing chain cover is covered by 5-year / 60,000-mile powertrain warranty. Serpentine belt tensioner isn’t covered by powertrain warranty.



Here from an online Mazda parts seller:

Tensioner - Mazda (PE03-15-980C)
Replaces: PE01-15-980A, PE01-15-980B, PE03-15-980A, PE03-15-980B, PET2-15-980
MSRP $186.61 / Sale Price $134.34

Serpentine Belt - Mazda (PY01-15-909A)
Replaces: PY01-15-909
MSRP $46.37 / Sale Price $33.52

Water Pump Belt - Mazda (PY01-15-908)
MSRP $22.25 / Sale Price $17.89

All dealers would charge customers at MSRP, if not adding 10% ~ 30% more over MSRP, on all the genuine parts they used for service. The tensioner + serpentine belt + water pump belt should cost you at least $186.61 + $46.37 + $22.25 = $255.23 by a Mazda dealer. If your Mazda dealer quoted you $212 for all 3 parts that’s a pretty good price for the OEM parts. You can talk to the service manager saying you’d like to pay the parts on belts and tensioner but please waive the labor since the timing chain cover job would have to remove these 3, and they can just put the new parts you purchased from them back instead of using the old ones. Keep us posted.

Just see how many revisions on the prone-to-leak belt tensioner!

And BTW, the fix to the leaky timing chain cover can be tricky. Don’t be surprised if you still see some seepages after the repair.
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I believe he said the Mazda dealer quoted him $212 for just the tensioner. Also, if any Mazda dealer can sell the same parts to the public for those online prices, then this dealer can too as they all pay the same price for parts. The service dept is being extremely greedy to try and make money on top of the MSRP price the parts dept charges them( which is most likey not msrp) and then charges the customer AGAIN. Every part of the dealership runs like 3 seperate businesses to one another....Sales, service and parts. No reason in the world other than greed that the service dept should be charging over list price on parts and trying to get him for labor as well for something required to be removed and replaced as part of the timing cover job!
 
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Gooogle said:
Thanks for the info. Where is this online Mazda parts dealer in case I want to buy them directly?
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There’re plenty. Just Google it. I used mazda-parts.com just to get MSRP information.

Where to buy Mazda parts online?

I personally would try to buy the OEM parts from this Mazda dealer who will work on the leaky timing chain cover and replace the tensioner and belts for free labor if possible. You can always ask if you can bring your own OEM parts, but a better way is to ask them to match the sale price or at least the MSRP.
 
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Just to throw in my 2¢. If you are doing the work yourself, be sure and buy the OEM water pump belt and not some other aftermarket brand. When I replaced mine I could not get the aftermarket Gates belt on no matter what I tried while others on here who got the OEM had no problem installing theirs. I had to take it to a mechanic to get the belt on, so all my savings on the aftermarket part disappeared (and then some!).
 
Tchman2016 said:
I believe he said the Mazda dealer quoted him $212 for just the tensioner. Also, if any Mazda dealer can sell the same parts to the public for those online prices, then this dealer can too as they all pay the same price for parts. The service dept is being extremely greedy to try and make money on top of the MSRP price the parts dept charges them( which is most likey not msrp) and then charges the customer AGAIN. Every part of the dealership runs like 3 seperate businesses to one another....Sales, service and parts. No reason in the world other than greed that the service dept should be charging over list price on parts and trying to get him for labor as well for something required to be removed and replaced as part of the timing cover job!
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Yeah there’re too many car dealers getting too greedy and don’t use the common sense. If I were a service manager I’d be gladly to replace the tensioner and belts for free labor while working on leaky timing chain cover under warranty. It’s a win-win situation for both sides. My Mazda dealer is a very reasonable one and may be the best car dealer I’ve ever dealt with. But after several conversations with the sales manager and now general manager, and a Master Tech at my Mazda dealer, I can understand why those car dealers are greedy at the service department. The factory computer equipments and all service tools aren’t cheap. The labor expenses are much higher than before. And they have a very hard time to find good young technicians even with very high pay (standard labor charge to the customer now is approaching $150 / hour!). My complaint really is even the customers are paying high price to the dealer service, the quality of work has declined drastically nowadays. Both of them didn’t deny that.
 
minnesotaart said:
Just to throw in my 2¢. If you are doing the work yourself, be sure and buy the OEM water pump belt and not some other aftermarket brand. When I replaced mine I could not get the aftermarket Gates belt on no matter what I tried while others on here who got the OEM had no problem installing theirs. I had to take it to a mechanic to get the belt on, so all my savings on the aftermarket part disappeared (and then some!).
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Yes, you’re not the only one mentioned this. Water pump uses a stretch belt and apparently the one-size-fit-all aftermarket water pump belt is a little smaller than the OEM water pump belt which makes it very difficult to put on.

That’s why as a DIYer I always prefer to use OEM parts ever though their price is higher. It’s to avoid such situation that could happen sometimes.
 
yrwei52 said:
Yes, you’re not the only one mentioned this. Water pump uses a stretch belt and apparently the one-size-fit-all aftermarket water pump belt is a little smaller than the OEM water pump belt which makes it very difficult to put on.

That’s why as a DIYer I always prefer to use OEM parts ever though their price is higher. It’s to avoid such situation that could happen sometimes.
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I replaced mine at 100k, real disappointed to see the OEM belt is made in
china..
 
Gooogle said:
Spoke to the manager who was really cool. Totally agreed with what people said. Getting it replaced and will pay for just the parts. Thanks for the advice everyone.
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So do you have to pay 20% over MSRP、MSRP、or matching the online sale price on parts?
 
The big cost is they are charging labor for both the belt and tensioner replacements seperately, even though they have to remove and reinstall the belt anyway for the tensioner
 
tomcat1446 said:
has any one tried this ? doesn't look too hard to DIY ? although this is just replacing belts, not the tensioner.... the belts are accessible from the wheel well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4flPe3HMxvc
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Glad to see your post again and it’s been a while.

Felix Dan has been posting the same video here as @felixd in this forum. Several here had followed his video and installed the belts. His CX-5 looks like a 2.0L, hence he has a bit more space to work on.

Depending on your mileage the belt tensioner usually is the first to go with leaky fluid. I’d replace the tensioner along with the belts.

Be aware that Felix Dan used the OEM water pump stretch belt and the installation wasn’t too difficult. But if you use aftermarket water pump stretch belt most likely it’d be a bit smaller and very difficult to get it on the pulley.
 
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yrwei52 said:
Glad to see your post again and it’s been a while.

Felix Dan has been posting the same video here as @felixd in this forum. Several here had followed his video and installed the belts. His CX-5 looks like a 2.0L, hence he has a bit more space to work on.

Depending on your mileage the belt tensioner usually is the first to go with leaky fluid. I’d replace the tensioner along with the belts.

Be aware that Felix Dan used the OEM water pump stretch belt and the installation wasn’t too difficult. But if you use aftermarket water pump stretch belt most likely it’d be a bit smaller and very difficult to get it on the pulley.
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Hey yrwei52, yeah, it's been awhile... good to be back. My 2016 CX-5 is still running great, best SUV I ever owned. Only complaint I have is the headlights are getting a cloudy film from the inside and outside the headlihgt housing is getting oxidized and show signs of crazing. 160K original miles, just regular maintenance, like oil changes, belts, air filter, I just changed the transmission fluid, drain and fill , no flush. I just changed the spark plugs at 160K , I know, I know, I should have done it sooner, LOL , they look like crap.. here are the tools I used, they worked perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

I highly recommend using the torque wrench, you don't want to under-tighten and certainly don't want to over-tighten that it can crack the housing, I set to 20 N-m

spark plugs.jpg
 
tomcat1446 said:
Hey yrwei52, yeah, it's been awhile... good to be back. My 2016 CX-5 is still running great, best SUV I ever owned. Only complaint I have is the headlights are getting a cloudy film from the inside and outside the headlihgt housing is getting oxidized and show signs of crazing. 160K original miles, just regular maintenance, like oil changes, belts, air filter, I just changed the transmission fluid, drain and fill , no flush. I just changed the spark plugs at 160K , I know, I know, I should have done it sooner, LOL , they look like crap.. here are the tools I used, they worked perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

I highly recommend using the torque wrench, you don't want to under-tighten and certainly don't want to over-tighten that it can crack the housing, I set to 20 N-m

View attachment 322662
Click to expand...
So your serpentine belt and tensioner have survived for 160K miles ⋯ 😄(y)

Another past due maintenance for you is the FL-22 coolant change?
 
Hello, all. OP here. I neglected to ask why it's important not to delay replacing the tensioner and drive belts, if in fact they are leaking/cracking - I haven't yet had the repairs done and currently have 61,000 miles, maybe 6-7k more than I did in May '22, when they first notified me of the issue.
I have been doing a lot more stop-and-go city driving these past three weeks and have notice that the car doesn't shift up or down as smoothly, perhaps my driving has just worsened.
I plan to have the belts and tensioner replaced this weekend. As always, thank you for your advice.
 
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