2002 P5 KL OBDII Swap

oh s***. I'll take pics of my harness tomorrow, I've labeled all the connections that need to be made..
I have the starter signal, ignition, main ignition relay power, and injector power all at the fuse box. at the ECU is just fuel pump relay, but that is also under the fusebox, I just have yet to find it. I believe all essentials can be done under the hood, things like tach and coolant gauge etc are at the ECU.

wiring.jpg

this is courtesy of justin (IukekiniProtege) the wiring chatter starts somewhere around page 84 on lewis' build thread. His is by far the most detailed in terms of wiring that I have bookmarked.

as Ihone said, reuse all the ground points, make sure they're clean. Look for the fuse panel plugs, there's at least two on my harness. They hold the most important vital-to-starting/running wires.

I plan to do my connections after the motor is in the car, well actually I'm planning on wiring most the engine before I even drop it in.

another hint, document everything you do, double check every connection before you make it, and solder them.
lemme know if you need P5 wiring charts, I have a online viewing link of the P5 wiring service manual. I only have probe wiring otherwise, and its all different colours.

the P5 is wired differently, and most of it needs to stay in order for the car to retain its functions. The probe/mx6 has a split harness where as the proteges doesn't split in the cabin. I'll be surprised if you're able to remove much of it, though I don't really know yet.

now if you'll excuse me I've been inspired to get out to the garage and get some work done. good luck! keep us updated
 
big...no. It's going to be a monumental help bro. The entire swap was easy. Engine was cake. ATX (GF4A-EL) was a sinch to get in there (albeit.....it was tiiiiiiiight!), although I did do an MTX swap about 2 months ago and it's the best thing I've ever done for this car. Wiring all the underhood things first was best for me - I got to see where the factory wires connected, what colors they were, and what I needed to tie through on the opposing ends. But nonetheless, by the time I got it running and all the basics done - I had a spaghetti bowl in my pass. floorboard. I managed to bend and cut the underfloor panel that held the ECU - in a fashion that it holds both ECU's now in the stock placement.

I still have a huge wiring mess underhood. The old harness is still there, just curled up and ziptied back in the corner by the diagnostic plug. I still have connections I need to solder, but all in good time.

-Do you plan on running headers (ebay, pacesetter, obx, etc)?
-What's your plan for intake? CAI? Short ram?
-Fuel delivery - get an AFPR and an adapter for the fuel rail feed line that allows direct connection to your fuel line from the AFPR. I found setting the Fuel pressure at about 45 psi was best for my KL.
-Basic tuneup before slamming the engine in (Tbelt, wpump, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc).
 
was the AFPR a must you think? I think the stock pump is suffiecient no? and I would ask how you did the fuel lines, but seeing as how you did an AFPR it'll be different for me.. what are the hose sizes you used?

so I took pics! this is the underside of the fuse panel:

IMG_3672.jpg


little white plug up top has the main relay 12V power.

below that white plug is another white plug but a bigger one. that black/yellow wire is your start signal.

skip the orange plug, onto the blue one. theres two wires on it that can be used for the injector power, I'm planning to use the black/white

now the medium white plug just in front of that, green/black wire is your ignition signal.

these are the two plugs (confirmed to be the same on a MX6 this morining) hold all the power/signal for the MX6 harness. I have all my colours marked and stuff but they are for a Probe, so I believe they're different.

IMG_3674.jpg



In my case: black/red (pin 1) = Ground, not needed though
White/black (pin 2) = A/C, not needed
Blue/white (pin 3) = Injector 12V
White (pin 4, now bottom row), also A/c
Red/black (pin 5) = main 12V, powers sensors, ecu, etc
Orange/black (pin 6) = not needed that I know of. still trying to figure out exactly where this one goes and does.
the other plug my start signal is black/red and ignition is somewhere on there, but I can't remember at the moment :(

IMG_3673.jpg
 
stock pump is sufficient, yes. I added the AFPR for monitoring reasons, plus it has a purdy gauge, so it's boss....

I'm doing some cleanup on wiring soon - your pics above help me in that endeavor.
 
IIRC that plug goes to another connector orange is to another plug and yellow goes to a sensor
i think that goes in the tranny area to another plug, and if im not mistaken there are 2 pairs of plugs (total of 4 connnectors) that you snap together backwards but just check the wire colors and make sure they are the same when its plug to plug

for wiring wire up your engine and tranny
while your dropping those in put the harness through the firewall and wire it up for the inside
 
Jedidiah55 said:
IIRC that plug goes to another connector orange is to another plug and yellow goes to a sensor
i think that goes in the tranny area to another plug, and if im not mistaken there are 2 pairs of plugs (total of 4 connnectors) that you snap together backwards but just check the wire colors and make sure they are the same when its plug to plug

for wiring wire up your engine and tranny
while your dropping those in put the harness through the firewall and wire it up for the inside
Click to expand...

yes on the 2 sets of plugs that connect the engine to the rest of the harness, they are also different sizes so you can't mix them up really.

which yellow? and do you mean the Orange/black (pin 6)? what plug does that go to?

I snapped this on a Probe this morning, I also checked a MX6 on the way out; its the same. both then snake to the fuse panel, in the MX6 it plugs bottom down into the panel.

http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z474/Tyson_Floris/photo.jpg
photo.jpg
 
what i meant by the orange and the yellow is, IIRC that the inside of this connector is orange so it goes into another connector in the harness, if it was yellow it would go to a sensor
IMG_3673.jpg




and if anyone needs any diagrams let me know i should be able to get some
 
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I will get those to you tonight

Ill get you engine, tranny, starting, and charging diagrams do you want instruments cluster too? Are you running 1 ecu or 2?
 
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So, I first an trying to understand the starting System, I did a manual swap, but I dont have the under dash wiring. So, it looks like i make sure my black starter wire on kl sees 12 volts from battery, and the black/blue wire on kl starter needs to see 12 volt in the start position on the key? and that will make the start turn?
 
subsonicman said:
So, I first an trying to understand the starting System, I did a manual swap, but I dont have the under dash wiring. So, it looks like i make sure my black starter wire on kl sees 12 volts from battery, and the black/blue wire on kl starter needs to see 12 volt in the start position on the key? and that will make the start turn?
Click to expand...

Yes.
Make sure your grounds are hooked up, the starter and the starter relay will need ground and 12V to operate. Not sure if you mean the pro5 was an auto.. it doesn't make a huge difference to the ECU, an auto ECU will just also have a TCM plug. All the clutch switch etc is contained in the vehicle. The start signal should be hooked up right before the relay.
The engine should be able to crank without the ECU
 
Tis the white black wire on the protege's blue connector under the fuse box no?
I am hooking up a white black from the probes's harness. It comes directly from the alternator, and makes it's way to the ECU through the white connector on top of the fuse panel.
 
i am doing the charging system next
I just don't have time to mess this up and chase my tail for weeks, I need to put my car back on the road, and this was the cheapest way i found to do that

thanks everyone for your help
 
i tried just splicing into the charging system, but if you dont have any charge going through it, the system isnt grounded meaning the light wont come on when the car is in start but not idling

and trust me i understand cheap

my car swap cost a bit less than the engagment ring i got

my cost are close to 1300

a rebuilt i4 cost 1400 not including shipping, and i didnt want a junked one
ppl complain about importing engines, but my engine was clean on the inside the cams had a slight yellow color to them
my only complaint was they smashed my dist because they just happen to sell new dist
725 shipped :) 575 tranny with lsd so 1300 for tranny and engine shipped over 1400 not shipped plus i sold s*** off of my engine and sold my tranny

my battery light is a yellow/black wire and when i spliced it to the white/black it either stayed lit or didn't light up when the key was in start but not running
 
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