2002 P5 KL OBDII Swap

S

subsonicman

Member
:
2002 Mazda Portege 5
So My tranny went on my P5 for the 3rd time, so I bought a 1997 MX6 M edition. the timing belt went on it, so i got it for crazy cheap. the plan is to take it and make my car OBD2 with a KLDE, I will later add klze heads, and intake, and a turbo.

I have a few questions, what did the other people who have done this swap do about connecting the fuel lines?
 
patience if you cant wait a day to get replies i wouldm't rush into this swap, dont bother with klze heads pull the kl engine prep the engine swap out protege5 parts with kl parts, the kl engine and transmission drops right in, but you have to fabricate exhuast, figure out a way to hook up the radiator hoses, and figure out how to hook up power steering hoses and wire it up
 
fuel lines? Don't they just...hook up? I read Lewis's thread on which one was feed vs return and did it with just regular fuel line and t-clamps in my KL swap.
 
albeit - I did have to cut the flared ends off the hardlines by the firewall. I cut just behind the flares, and ran the hosing all the way down to the little bevels in the hardlines.
 
I pulled my plastic fuel lines at the edge of the engine bay and ran hoses clamped on to the lines and they work fine
 
keep the radiator and make custom mounts for it to drop into (easier than you think)
power steering needs a custom return hose (big line on pump to reservoir), high pressure is bolt on
fuel lines see above
heater core should bolt up (can't confirm for mx6)
axles bolt up
motor mounts bolt up
shift linkage use the mx6 linkage (lewis used a probe GT and it lines the linkage better)

wiring isn't all too complicated.. but theres a lot to learn

read up as many build threads as possible, theres probably like 5 just on this forum, a couple on probetalk and clubprotege.

OBD2 is possible but you have to retain basically all of the system from the MX6, A guy in toronto (username Durwood) has passed aircare twice with a KL swapped protege. I also plan to make mine DD reliable and smog legal.

And like Jedidiah said use the complete DE, the retainers are stronger in the DE heads, intake manifold get a KLG4. Port the DE heads, KLZE porsche and Jkpgt have experimented with flow in the heads, a ported DE will actually be better. Watch lewis' boosted KL thread, he's pretty good at posting useful information.
exhaust and intake will most likely need to be custom etc.

I've done like 8 months research before my swap, which may or may not be too much but I know the car and engine inside out now...
 
Thanks for the help there are like 6 people that talk about the swap, but there are never any pictures.
 
yeah sorry for not taking pictures, my hand were caked in s*** and i didn't want to get my touch screen phone

for fuel lines you need to remove the p5 lines attached to the firewall, the right line is the feed line and the left is the return, somewhere on this forum someone has pics
run fuel injector hoses for those lines to the kl lines, if you want i would trim down the kl hard lines off of the fuel rail and run long rubber hoses to meet with the fuel rail, i had issues with the heater hoses and the fuel lines
the intermediate shaft bracket which connects the passenger side cv axle to the tranny needs to be off the exact year of your engine to avoid issues there is a few brackets some are 3 holes and some are 2 holes
you dont need custom mounts for the p5 radiator, it will fit even with headers
if you run stock p5 radiator with kl then you need to go for 1 1/2" kl to 1 1/4" p5 connectors IIRC
run you heater hoses for the pro5 to the kl
stock p5 linkage will work but it puts the knob when in neutral into what used to be 3rd
you can use the p5 tranny, gears, and/or lsd if you use the p5 tranny you will need to swap the bellhousing and get a kl starter
you can use the p5 clutch on the kl tranny but not the pressure plate
you will need to weld up an exhuast
for your power steering i used the p5 high pressure line on the kl ps pump and ran the kl low pressure return line back to the p5 reservoir and cut a piece off the p5 return line and stuffed it in the kl return line to act as an adapter
i combined my p5 positve and negative cables with the kl ones and tapped power for the p5 ecu and fuses
my kl controls engine, fans and fuel pump my p5 controls a/c, starter and transmission
if you want to go 1 ecu i think you will need to go OBD 2 because i dont think OBD 1 ecus can control everything that the p5 ecu controls that the kl ecu would need to take over
 
and im still trying to figure out how to get a/c to bolt right up to stock a/c i havent seen one kl a/c that fits protege fittings
 
Jedidiah55 said:
and im still trying to figure out how to get a/c to bolt right up to stock a/c i havent seen one kl a/c that fits protege fittings
Click to expand...

oh check into the "fastest KLZE swap thread" he managed to get them to fit perfectly with just a little bend in one of the lines.

And I meant use the MX6 rad, that way the hoses line up right away. Either way works, one requires custom hoses the other custom mounts.

I think we officially need a "KL swap knowledge" thread...
 
If you start one ill help, and I've been through 3 a/c compressors none bolt up to the p5 lines one was off a 96 626 and another was off a newer 626 and I think one was from a mx6
 
::not trying to threadjack here, but this is pertinent to my current A/C issue as well::

I also tried tying the stock AC couplings (the aluminum connections that go on the A/C compressor) from the P5 to the KL compressor. What I found was that the coupler connections are different sized between the 2. Meaning, the connections from the P5 are larger than the KL compressor's receiving couplers. I'm not sure how to fix this, but I've been back-burnering it for long enough. The heat is coming soon here in Texas, and I cannot see driving it much without AC.

Another issue I've had is the Heating/AC controls. I cannot for the life of me get the modes to change (this worked before I did the KL swap), or the temp to go from cool to hot. Any leads on this? Is it wiring related? The blower motor works, the rear defog works, and when I toggle between recirc and fresh air - it seems to toggle just fine (I can hear the mode switch on that).
 
threadjacked!!!!

i haven't found one a/c that will fit my p5 ac couplings my couplings are too big and i know how hot it can get, i got black leather seat
and did you blew a fuse or maybe a bad wire
 
thanks for the help i am pulling p5 motor this weekend, and i need to take pictures for the marketplace, and take pictures on how to wire tuck a p5
 
Both motors are out, I am still confused were the wiring connections are made were they done at fuse big or under dash?

How the hell do you post
Pictures here
 
<img src="http://s1.craigupload.com/uploads/03_19_2012/img_20120319_08.25.15.7402900.jpg"/>



Sent from my iPhone
 
So I got all the motors out I have the mx6 harness out under the hood motor is fitted in the car now what do
I do I have made zero electrical connections
 
you did put the harness through the grommet before putting the engine in place, correct?

Your connections could be like mine, in which they are a mix of underhood and underdash (in passenger floorboard was easiest for me).

If so - start connecting things as they look (they'll literally fall in place once you start connecting things. Look for "like connectors" that seem to match their plug-in partners), and be mindful of the powers, grounds, and signal wires. SEveral things will need power (constant 12vdc, key-on 12vdc, and start signal), several signals will need to be routed and connected, and your grounds will need a GOOD grounding point (if they're moved...the stock location works just fine on mine - which is underneath the throttle body).

Pictures of your swap have been demanded (by me!!!) . Good luck.
 
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