apowell0224
Member
- :
- '02 Protege5
ive been to the park a few times. its not a bad area
just looked at your build thread. youve got the same exhaust setup i just purchased. Hows it sound? and was it a pain to install?
Last edited:
195k Mile overhaul, All in the name of Love
- Thread starter apowell0224
- Start date
ive been to the park a few times. its not a bad area
just looked at your build thread. youve got the same exhaust setup i just purchased. Hows it sound? and was it a pain to install?
apowell0224
Member
- :
- '02 Protege5
Made a little more progress; was a pain in the ass, but i finally got the rear mount and entire crossmember out. Im getting rid of the wire harness bracket and replacing it with a ziptie because it didnt make any sense to have a bolt so close to the third motor mount stud. Harbor freight saved my life with a half inch socket swivel and deep impact sockets.
heres the first problem, the wire harness bracket
only way to get the bottom nut is to fit a wrench under here after bending the bracket to the side. its a pain but it does work
my phone died before i was able to get pictures but i essentially ground down the stud for the bottom nut, because it held the rear mount in place perfectly
Then tried to loosen the rear mount with a half inch setup
Not enough torque. So i needed to step up my game... with a 3/4" drive.
Finally got it off and was able to see up close the cause to every mechanical problem in the entire engine bay.
from there the cross-member was a cakewalk. Just needed to hang the rack and pinion. That would be another whole project. Aint nobody got time fo dat
Discovered another problem too. The added stress on the side mount created a rot spot. Ignoring the rear mount was a bigger mistake than i originally thought.
after a little scraping
could be worst i guess, just going to weld in some new steel to patch the hole on both sides.
All in all shes getting there, slowly but steadily.
heres the first problem, the wire harness bracket
only way to get the bottom nut is to fit a wrench under here after bending the bracket to the side. its a pain but it does work
my phone died before i was able to get pictures but i essentially ground down the stud for the bottom nut, because it held the rear mount in place perfectly
Then tried to loosen the rear mount with a half inch setup
Not enough torque. So i needed to step up my game... with a 3/4" drive.
Finally got it off and was able to see up close the cause to every mechanical problem in the entire engine bay.
from there the cross-member was a cakewalk. Just needed to hang the rack and pinion. That would be another whole project. Aint nobody got time fo dat
Discovered another problem too. The added stress on the side mount created a rot spot. Ignoring the rear mount was a bigger mistake than i originally thought.
after a little scraping
could be worst i guess, just going to weld in some new steel to patch the hole on both sides.
All in all shes getting there, slowly but steadily.
well right now I have obx header, SLS hi flow catted mid pipe and eBay catback
ebay catback is less than a year old and already has a terrible leak so racing best catback is on the way. once I get that in I will post a video of the sound. I can't wait!
as far as installation everything was easy. except rusted seized bolts. had to use a sawzall and cut the stock catback off. that was about it. just buy new gaskets (especially donut from header to midpipe) and anything that won't come off you can force off
apowell0224
Member
- :
- '02 Protege5
Sounds good, i already have the exhaust all off and may even have the gasket on the way. When did you order the exhaust? we may end up having everything in at the same time haha.
But i got the engine in along with other goodies. It didnt come with a main bearing support plate, so i took off the old off (surprisingly clean for 195k miles), and made it as like new as possible. Along with the front crossmember's rust removal, all the front suspension is getting cleaned and painted.
But i got the engine in along with other goodies. It didnt come with a main bearing support plate, so i took off the old off (surprisingly clean for 195k miles), and made it as like new as possible. Along with the front crossmember's rust removal, all the front suspension is getting cleaned and painted.
apowell0224
Member
- :
- '02 Protege5
Main Bearing Support Plate and Valve cover. i still cant decide if i should clear coat it or paint it gloss black
apowell0224
Member
- :
- '02 Protege5
Yeah ive got chains, but theyre bulky and i wasnt too too concerned. already have a smaller rigging strap and ubolt setup set up for the new engine install. But 9 zip ties rated at 250lbs each made it fine. Theyre double locking in case the zip lock fails. I can post a better pic of one engaged if youre curious.
A friend was saying sanding the main bearing support plate was a bad idea because of some coating along the internal surfaces which gave it a gold appearance. I was under the impression it was just oil residue because most of all edges were black or really dark. Any tips on the sanding? do i need to spray the inside with something before exposing the bare aluminum to oil?
A friend was saying sanding the main bearing support plate was a bad idea because of some coating along the internal surfaces which gave it a gold appearance. I was under the impression it was just oil residue because most of all edges were black or really dark. Any tips on the sanding? do i need to spray the inside with something before exposing the bare aluminum to oil?
mp5build2013
Member
- :
- Mazda, Protege5 02
Looks nice bro! its coming along great keep updating.
you painting the valve cover?? if so what color? i was going to but i didnt have any clear coat at the time so i just re-coated it dull alluminum
you painting the valve cover?? if so what color? i was going to but i didnt have any clear coat at the time so i just re-coated it dull alluminum
apowell0224
Member
- :
- '02 Protege5
Been trying to think of a good kind of pattern to do, maybe dark red and black to match the outside paintjob. Just bought Aluminum primer for the block, support plate (paint doesnt seem to stick very well without it) and the valve cover.
But i got my tranny from man trans; wasnt too impressed with the outside look of it at first, but after feeling how everything moves in every gear, i think its safe to install. bad paintjob from the factory, Rusted hardware on the rear case and a little bent. But nothing a little tlc cant fix haha. Checked the spline count and everything matches up. Theres only a couple small differences in the bell housings between the two.
gotta get the paint off the throw bearing shaft
just gong to replace the whole cap and all its hardware from the origional
Only thing im really disappointed about was seeing paint inside the bearings
Thuzil sold me his ported intake manifold as well... Without butterflies
Next up, rust repair, then only a couple more steps to go before reassembly
But i got my tranny from man trans; wasnt too impressed with the outside look of it at first, but after feeling how everything moves in every gear, i think its safe to install. bad paintjob from the factory, Rusted hardware on the rear case and a little bent. But nothing a little tlc cant fix haha. Checked the spline count and everything matches up. Theres only a couple small differences in the bell housings between the two.
gotta get the paint off the throw bearing shaft
just gong to replace the whole cap and all its hardware from the origional
Only thing im really disappointed about was seeing paint inside the bearings
Thuzil sold me his ported intake manifold as well... Without butterflies
Next up, rust repair, then only a couple more steps to go before reassembly
apowell0224
Member
- :
- '02 Protege5
Rot on the passenger side wheel well is all fixed
sanded it down and drilled holes, and used some body mesh from autozone.
The filled and mashed in 4 tubes of quick steel, sanded, painted the inside, and put silicon gasket maker all around to seal every hole possible. Doesnt look too bad altogether
and been working on the valve cover. but heres a sneak peak
sanded it down and drilled holes, and used some body mesh from autozone.
The filled and mashed in 4 tubes of quick steel, sanded, painted the inside, and put silicon gasket maker all around to seal every hole possible. Doesnt look too bad altogether
and been working on the valve cover. but heres a sneak peak
apowell0224
Member
- :
- '02 Protege5
Sorry its taken so long to reply. Alots happened in the last couple months. Including the complete resurrection, break-in, and death of the p5 :/
this god damned bolt.... overtorqued justtttt a little and look what happened lol... thank god for easy outs
lower bearing support plates all on, along with clutch, all ready to bring back home to attach the tranny
this god damned bolt.... overtorqued justtttt a little and look what happened lol... thank god for easy outs
lower bearing support plates all on, along with clutch, all ready to bring back home to attach the tranny
apowell0224
Member
- :
- '02 Protege5
now the fun part
the obx header met with the midpipe awfully close to the oil pan. probably should have bent it, but was wayyy too anxious to have everything together. so the back burner looked very comfy
Just my luck with a broken 45degree rubber hose. Had to butcher an aluminum honda accord intake from advanced to make it work right.
even got around to switching the sway bar back over the right way.
the obx header met with the midpipe awfully close to the oil pan. probably should have bent it, but was wayyy too anxious to have everything together. so the back burner looked very comfy
Just my luck with a broken 45degree rubber hose. Had to butcher an aluminum honda accord intake from advanced to make it work right.
even got around to switching the sway bar back over the right way.
apowell0224
Member
- :
- '02 Protege5
And now for the hard part...
After 4 months of careful break in, oil changes at 50, 180, 400, 1000, 2000, and a synthetic change at 5000 miles, the worst happens. And my baby's been smacked by a distracted driver zipping around the corner of a parking lot. My guess is as good as yours based on the damage.
car hasnt moved from where the force of impact left it
So im gettin pretty hosed, as insurance doesnt cover any aftermarket modifications.
Solution... Found a laser blue Protege MP3 shell (cabpatch)
Will post pictures later in the week.
and s***... at this point i have practically every bolt size and thread size memorized in the engine bay, so it should be an easy swap
After 4 months of careful break in, oil changes at 50, 180, 400, 1000, 2000, and a synthetic change at 5000 miles, the worst happens. And my baby's been smacked by a distracted driver zipping around the corner of a parking lot. My guess is as good as yours based on the damage.
car hasnt moved from where the force of impact left it
So im gettin pretty hosed, as insurance doesnt cover any aftermarket modifications.
Solution... Found a laser blue Protege MP3 shell (cabpatch)
Will post pictures later in the week.
and s***... at this point i have practically every bolt size and thread size memorized in the engine bay, so it should be an easy swap
- :
- Mazda, Protege5 2002
man after all the work... sorry... that suck.
no insurance?
no insurance?
