1.6L Engine won't start because of stuck camshaft

Ok, a quick history. I got this vehicle from a guy who got it from someone else (goodness) so he doesn't know anything more than I know about the vehicle. The vehicle currently has 143K miles and the timing belt was changed at 136K. Well, something happened before the guy got the vehicle and when you try to start the vehicle, it makes a sound as if the timing belt is skipping over a cam (if that makes sense). I took the valve cover gasket off and I got a friend to try to start it and what I found is that the front Camshaft in green is moving while the rear one in red is not moving. Therefore the belt is just skipping which explains the sound I'm hearing. I've had a couple of people that are more mechanically inclined look at it and they have varying suggestions as to what to do. One says I need a new motor and the other says no I don't that it's all in the head. Anyone have any idea what to do? I'm not the most mechanically inclined but I can certainly change parts and follow directions such as Haynes but definitely don't do much of diagnosing. Thanks


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If it is something wrong with the cam shaft it's self, it can be replaced from top end. But finding out of why the cam is not spinning is the important part. So does the cam gear spin when cranking motor? Are you able to manually crank the motor by hand? This has to be pretty simple if I read your post right, "new" timing belt did not get too many miles before boom time. So try tracing steps of belt replacement too. I hope some of this helps, I'm no expert but I try to help when I can.
 
That belt doesnt look new. Check the tension and teeth on the belt, and examine the cam gear (your problem child is the intake cam) for any busted or rounded off teeth. Like extreme said, put a 13/16 socket on the crank bolt and try to rotate the engine manually going clockwise.
 
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Update:

So I was able to manually rotate the engine clockwise. The cam gear was mainly stuck by the cam sprocket. Anyways, went ahead and changed the timing belt, tensioner and pulley. Confirmed the timing and then checked compression. They were 90, 35, 40, 90 ish from 1-4. Well, it was obvious that the valves were shot. Also, contrary to what I had said earlier, the timing belt was actually due for change at 136K and it was not changed at 136K. These are pictures of what the whole mess looks like now. The head shop wants over $300 just to do all the work on the head. I'm about to go find a used head for a lot cheaper. I'll take my chances that it won't be as bad and that they won't have to do as much to the head I'm getting
 
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