What have you done to your P5 today?

o.g.sk8er said:
This is to make sure the coolant didn't freeze up in colder climates. But since I'm in Cali I don't need to worry about that hehe
Click to expand...

Crap, it gets below freezing here.

But wait, can't the coolant freeze sitting in the radiator? And while the car is running, it gets warmed up anyway from the engine. And I thought coolant nowadays was engineered not to freeze? Still doesn't make any sense..

And even more, the throttle body didn't heat up the coolant! This mod proves it! The coolant heated the TB, b/c the TB runs cooler with no coolant going thru it. Was the hot coolant (I know, oxymoron) supposed to heat the intake air before injection?
 
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After 40 min of Googling, I have arrived at an answer. The TB is not supposed to heat the coolant, it's the other way around. The coolant is supposed to keep the TB plates/valve from freezing in cold weather. It's also supposed to help the engine heat up to operating temps quicker by heating the air which makes it ignite easier.

Also, this person says the TB bypass is useless..

http://forum.mazda6club.com/#/topics/132355?page=1
 
It's arguable for sure no doubt. Some cars don't benefit, some do. Seems our do.
This mod has been done on many different cars for many years and on some cars maybe it's pointless, but there's now doubt cooler air coming in the intake is more favorable than hot air. I'm no expert on this particular subject but have a look at some of these threads as they could provide more accurate info than I can.
https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?101336-Throttle-body-coolant-bypass

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?71052-Coolant-bypass-mod&pp=15

323, there's some pics on these threads for ya too.
I took some pics but can't post for some reason. I'll keep trying haha
 
Top hose. I removed the opposite side from this, leaving this side in place.

capt05311.jpg


The other end of the top hose, the one I removed.
Capture+_2017-09-15-13-06-27.png


Lower hose.
bttmjs.png
 
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His main point, I think, is that the air moves too fast through the TB to transfer sufficient heat to make a difference. The TB may be hot to the touch, but the heat isn't transferring to the intake air. Actual air temps don't change much
 
I wonder if there is a way to test the actual air temps.

For me, I thought I would give this try and see if it helps with my pinging issue since people here were having positive posts from this mod. So I figure it's free, why not give it try? If I see any weirdness, I'll just change it back since it's not permanent :)
 
o.g.sk8er said:
This is to make sure the coolant didn't freeze up in colder climates. But since I'm in Cali I don't need to worry about that hehe
Click to expand...

actually, its to thaw out the throttle plate in colder climates in the case of moisture build up. the IACV allows the vehicle to idle, however, if the throttle plate freezes shut, the car will be inoperable.


Protege5 Smoke said:
His main point, I think, is that the air moves too fast through the TB to transfer sufficient heat to make a difference. The TB may be hot to the touch, but the heat isn't transferring to the intake air. Actual air temps don't change much
Click to expand...

eh, any reduction in intake temperature charge is still better for the motor... hence why people run cold air intakes and intake manifold/throttle body thermal spacers. basically the denser and cooler the intake charge is, the easier the motor breathes in and helps to create peak HP. breathing out is a whole different story (headers, cam, exhaust, timing etc).
 
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dorkidori_s13 said:
eh, any reduction in intake temperature charge is still better for the motor... hence why people run cold air intakes and intake manifold/throttle body thermal spacers. basically the denser and cooler the intake charge is, the easier the motor breathes in and helps to create peak HP. breathing out is a whole different story (headers, cam, exhaust, timing etc).
Click to expand...

Yea, I know. But apparently the intake temp doesn't get significantly hotter when running the coolant thru the TB vs bypassing it. In the link I posted, he calculated a 1.3 degF increase in intake temps, I think. According to the every -10deg equals +1hp, that does nothing. Just reposting what someone else said, not saying not to do the mod, or that it doesn't do anything. If you don't have to worry about the TB freezing, by all means go for it. IMO, if you live in cold temperatures, the benefit of coolant running thru the TB outweigh the power gains.
 
Bought a 1.8 coil pack for the conversion mod (add that to a growing list of mods waiting to be done). Any recommendations for spark plugs and wires? NGK seem to be popular, but what about their quality? And anyone heard of Magnecor brand?
 
Finally got some progress done on the P5. Motor was hard to turn over, pulled the trans and oil pan off and it turned over just fine. Turns out the trans was in gear.... But the O ring for the oil pump pickup tube was somehow sitting in the oil pan so it's good I removed the pan and caught that.

Motor is installed in the car, need to put the axles in, install the ZE intake mani, get a header or install the stock exhaust mani, hook up the harness and battery, install the rad and coolant and test drive. Can't wait to drive it finally.
 
I'm back

New shocks (Enkei), Struts (Stagg), SS brake lines (Stoptech), Budget Big Brake kit from RockAuto ( Mazda 626 calipers/rotors for the front, stock calipers in the back), new passenger side CV axel (RockAuto again), new rear hub assemblies (RockAuto), and I broke an AWR Adjustable endlink that I bought in 2007... Talked to Tony to send me a new set. I'd post pictures, but I can't figure out the magic sauce on mobile. I am pleased with the new stance even though it's about an inch higher that I was running.
 
Protege5 Smoke said:
All 4, full set

I should mention, they're used. Bought from another forum member, but never installed on my car
Click to expand...

Used never scared me before, post a F/S compliant picture and I'll think about it.. Surely they aren't are rusty as mine.
 
Give me a day or two, been super busy and I gotta pull them out of storage

No rust at all, but 1 or 2 o-rings need replacing if I remember correctly
 
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