Ok, I think I did a pretty good search in Google, and in the forum, and read most of the 120 post Thread "difference between slotted brakes and drilled brakes," which was real cool, but still couldn't find out from where to buy some performance rotors, and pads, for a decent price. The last time I went to the track, last year, I was driving with really, really warped rotors, it was scary, and now its almost time for the next track day, so I really need some new rotors and pads. Thanks
New Rotors, and Pads.
- Thread starter hyck
- Start date
i think steve at www.nsnmotorsports.com sells rotors and pads... also check the vendor section in the forum i thought i remember some guy selling all kinds of break stuff....
hyck said:
Hyck, stick with STOCK rotors. Slotted or x-drilled (especially) won't do you any good on a track. Stock rotors have more cooling and braking surface. X-drilled are much more prone to cracking (99% of aftermarket x-drilled are drilled, not cast, holes).
Key is to get track-only pads for ther track and maybe upgrade your fluid. Or.... spring for those really nice Brembo GT kits that just came out for our cars.
Just a comment on the x-drilled rotors. If you're in a northern climate, it only takes 1 winter for all of those holes to get filled with rust! Trust me, I've tried it, and I'll never do it again.
I can imagine the slotted rotors will eventually fill with rust too.
I'd stick with stock rotors if I were you.
I can imagine the slotted rotors will eventually fill with rust too.
I'd stick with stock rotors if I were you.
dcomiskey said:
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Little Beavis
Member
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- 2001 MP3-T (#911)
EBC does a "sport rotor" that is supposed to be the best of both worlds in terms of having smaller slots and dimples rather than holes. I know that NSN Motorsports sells EBC pads and rotors - so that is an option.
hyck said:
Most rotors don't "warp." You get a vibration because you are applying a super hot pad on the rotor for an extended period of time (like when you park after some hot laps and put the parking brake on) and the pad material basically fuses to the surface of the rotor. After that, when you hit the brakes, you get that warbling feeling, but it's not warping. It's going to happen even more so if you are running on non-track pads which will break down when extremely hot. Warping is mostly a myth. Stock rotors can absorb and dissipate the most heat. Unless you get an aftermarket floating rotor (which I don't think is available for our cars), stick with the OEM and upgrade your pads and fluid. Slotted and/or x-drilled aren't going to perform any better. On 99% of the car out there, those things are for LOOKS ONLY.
Oh, and DO NOT purchase anything EBC. Their products are s***. I've yet to hear of a good experience with their pads, which have a nasty habit of eating rotors faster than you can blink.
Again, it would help if you said what setup you used at the track.
EDIT: I just saw you asking about EBC greens and HPS. DO NOT EVER use greens. They are only for street use and eat rotors - and will destroy then if you use them on the track.
DO NOT use HPS on the track. They are also street-only. I've used them for years and they are awesome on the street. On the track, I will get them to fade in two laps easy. I started using Hawk Blues last year, which are a racing pad, and the difference was night and day. They NEVER fade. So, I think you might need to do a lot more research about what you should be taking to the track. I'm not knocking you, just trying to get you headed in the right direction. (group)
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hyck said:
I meant get the race-only pads just for the track. I swap my pads in/out at the track on track days. Although, I haven't gone with my MS3 yet, so I dont' know how easyt/difficult it is compared to VWs.
By using two sets of pads, you get the best performance for the circumstances. No street pad is good for track use and vice versa.
