Search results

My P5 has been smelling like gas when sitting in the garage, and a few days ago I noticed that there was gas on the garage floor under where the gas tank sits. Just now I went out and looked around the gas tank while the car was running to see if I could find the leak, and I can see it dripping...

That generation Civic Si had the 2.0 K-series from the base model RSX. The Accord has a 2.4 K-series, which is nearly identical, but bigger. This would be a tough choice for me. I love that gen Si, especially the shifter, but the P5 is a really good car.

Seeing that the bent valves mentioned in this thread both resulted from piston/rod problems, I am again unconvinced. I think the only thing to convince me (and likely most people) would be to see a video of someone free-wheeling the crank with the timing belt off. I was planning on checking this...

Well, bent valves are pretty convincing. So I stand corrected, as it clearly is interference. Who were the first to declare this motor to be non-interference, and why? No actual experimentation could have been done to come to that conclusion.

When I changed my front rotors, I had to use a very large sledge hammer to remove the rotors. They actually came of the car in pieces. I'd never seen rotors stuck on so badly.

Well I went ahead and did the non-fouler mod and cleared the codes, and now it's throwing two codes: P0131 & P0140. I have a feeling two new O2 sensors are in my near future, unless anyone has any better ideas.

I have an SLS high-flow cat midpipe that I installed this past winter along with an OBX header. I was under the impression that my installing the downstream O2 senser in the midpipe behind the cat, I should not be getting a check engine light coming on. But it keeps coming on, telling me that...

I'd recommend the header first. I have both, but I got the SLS first because my stock cat was rusted out, and I didn't notice any difference with the SLS. The OBX header, on the other hand, completely transformed the characteristics of this engine. It is possible that the header made a bigger...

I think the auto tranny cars have such a hole for bracing, but the service manual calls for a specialty tool that bolts to the crank pulley.

How have people managed to get the correct torque on the crank bolt (the one that holds the crank pully on)? I had someone sit in the car holding the brake with the car in gear, but the clutch springs bounce too much to get any accurate torque reading. I might just take it to a shop and have...

Protegegarage didn't sell it last time I checked, but here is the Mazda part number: BPY167020. It is available through any dealer. Usually around $40-$50.

You mind running one for my VW? I've never actually done it. 9BWPG61J214048703 You can PM or email me. Appreciated.

Exactly. Freakin' sweet!

It was a beat down junker. The badge was certainly a joke. Plus, have you ever seen the engine compartment on a Festiva? There's no way a V8 of that size could cram in there. I bet you could rig one up in the rear end though.

I saw an old Ford Festiva with a HEMI badge on the back. Draw your own conclusion.

I'm not familiar with anyone having ever broken their belt in a P5. Doesn't mean it hasn't happened, but I haven't heard of it. Go for it if you want to. I wouldn't though. Some other Canadian P5ers might chime in their opinions. Michigan climate isn't too much milder though. And for your other...

Mazda only calls for checking the timing belt at 96,000 km (60,000 miles). The timing belt is due for a change at 105,000 miles (about 169,000 km). I don't know what living in Canada would have to do with when to change the belt. Obviously winter weather is harder on rubber, but even so that...

I had the same problem. It ended up being a bent fork. I paid $300 for repairs.

The SLS midpipe from protegegarage does have a bung for the second O2 sensor after the cat. The non-MSP version will work with the OBX header. I have that combo and it works very well. This combo should work for emissions testing, but I think it would fail a visual inspection if the inspector...

Driving with no endlinks is completely safe. Don't worry about it at all. Cars didn't even have swaybars for a long time.