Recent content by hedlesschkn

that's 23 dollars a can... plus whatever shipping is

So, I am finally getting around to fixing the rust that I mentioned in a post a little while back, but now it is an actual issue... My plan is to take a wire wheel, wire brush, and some sand paper to the rust spots that are developing then fill in any holes with a body filler of some kind then...

PM me if you are still thinking about getting rid of it in 6 months, I'm up in NH but I'd be happy to grab up another p5 if the price is right

6.5's will fit just fine, i have some in the back of mine running on the stock screw holes and everything. 5.25's you might have to get an adapter for

thats a lot heftier than i was thinking but still 10 gauge scares me, im running 10 gauge as speaker wire on a short run from my amp to my subs (granted im pushing 1000rms to them) but still, 10 gauge for power wire is a bit on the small side. as long as you check amperage rating charts and...

at 500 watts you should not need a high output alt yet (and yeah i read the same thing which makes me sad, also read that you can't do dual alternators unless you completely isolate the second one for a second accessory battery only). also +1 on the using welding cable. you'll save yourself...

no, no very no! the crap spare tire sub pushes like 100 watts peak ILS (if lightning strikes) if you plan on putting an amplifier of any decency in, the garbage wiring for the OEM sub is not going to handle the power you are pulling. in fact, no wiring in your car is large enough to pull any...

yeah i did my own little ebay search and the megan racing one is only 60 bucks with shipping! I had no idea these things were such cheap money! now i just need to get my brother to help me with my subwoofer fiberglassing project so that i have space to cut the plastics and put this bar in...

I was just about to say "damn it guys, now your giving me options and i have to go do research and figure out which one is better blagh blagh" then i saw that the buy it now on that probe bar is 15 bucks with 18 dollar shipping... gtfo of here, for that price my decision is already made for me...

Not to be THAT GUY but as far as I am concerned car bras are pointless. first off, they look ugly as sin. Second, dirt and dust and rocks and crap and water get stuck under there and then all that grossness rubs around and flaps in the wind over the front of your car, so now your "protective...

my radio reception kind of blows in this car in comparison to my previous vehicles and im using a pretty nice HU. I used a similar one (cda-9886) in my previous car and then put the 9886 in this car till it got stolen and i think the reception was better in my old car even with the same unit. so...

not sure if you have seen a spec GT bar installed but it looks like the mx-6 bar still has the bolts accessible outside the plastic panel based on that pic. Would it be easy enough to get to the bolts, maybe put wing nuts on it? in all reality I dont know that i'd ever even undo it. I'v got...

I have searched and searched but i cannot for the life of me find the old thread where someone had made or modified a rear strut tower bar to have a quick release. basically there was a quick release (same kind of idea as the tires on a mountain bike) so you can pull the bar out and take full...

I'm game for a kit too, i'd be glad to help figure out where/what hardware to get if you need help just let me know. subity sub subbed

I bought the car used and the previous owner had already installed the sunroof so I have no idea how much it cost to install