Simplified. What percentage off the CX-5 sticker?

The existing “What did you pay for your new CX-5?” thread is all over the board. Some included tax. Some didn’t. Some included incentives others didn’t. Can we devote this thread to an approximation of the percentage off sticker price.

For example...

If the vehicle MSRP sticker was 30k.
You talked him down 2k.
Then you had a incentive off of 1k.
Then you had a additional rebate of 1k.
That would be A total of 4 k off the sticker price. Which totals about 12% off sticker.
This way I will have a idea about my best possible negotiating percentage off of any model I choice. (Which includes negotiation, rebate, loyalty And anything Mazda can throw at you)
 
Generally I agree, but you're not going to get people to follow along. Ideally it should be EVERYTHING (including dealer doc fee which varies greatly) before TTL or any non-dealer/state fees. But for too many years there are some people stuck on Out The Door, which just confuses things unless you are buying from he same state, county, and city. Or they don't include the destination fee as they think that's somehow different than the total MSRP or they exclude doc, or they pay for (but don't think it's part of the calculation) things like pre-installed paint shieled or VIN etching that the dealer says they "have to pay for because it's already on the car" (see attached pic of BS Add-Ons that I did't pay for). In short, you can't get everyone to understand that you need to take EVERYTHING before TTL.

Trust me, I agree with you on this, but if you've followed this thread long enough you have seen that people are all over the board on this, and half of them can't even get close to understanding how % off MSRP is calculated.

Another issue is that you may not be able to get the same deal as others for other reasons such as local supply/demand, or incentives that may not be available. For example, I paid $33,093 on an MSRP of $38,705 for 14.5% off MSRP, but that was when there was a $1,500 loyalty, and I got $500 healthcare worker at the time - neither of which do i know still exists.
IMG_20200926_154708_2.jpg
 
NADA online will tell you everything you need to know to negotiate a deal. My credit union will let me look at the guide they have. Most people feel that dealerships mess you over. Some do but with all the info online getting a deal isn't a problem. Dealerships make most of their money on maintenance and yes they can mess you over on that. Dealership maintenance is expensive mainly because of overhead. Everyone deserves to make a living no matter who they are. With that said no I don't get my car maintained by the dealer. Like most people I go where my pocket leads me!
 
I saw a msrp sticker price of around $37k on a new 20 reserve. My question is,
If this is a cash deal. What is a comfortable amount to negotiate off that $37k. Including all rebates, layolty, cash back, and additional verbal negotiation. Could you get it for 33k. (Keep tax and other fees out of this equation). Thanks
 
I saw a msrp sticker price of around $37k on a new 20 reserve. My question is,
If this is a cash deal. What is a comfortable amount to negotiate off that $37k. Including all rebates, layolty, cash back, and additional verbal negotiation. Could you get it for 33k. (Keep tax and other fees out of this equation). Thanks
This may be old info but may help. I bought my second 2019 Reserve last year right about this time, a couple weeks before the 20's showed up. MSRP was $35,915 (Silver paint). $750 loyalty, $500 rebate. I paid cash. I offered $31,500 with above rebates before taxes, tags, documents. Sent the offer via email & within 10 minutes they accepted my offer.
 
I saw a msrp sticker price of around $37k on a new 20 reserve. My question is,
If this is a cash deal. What is a comfortable amount to negotiate off that $37k. Including all rebates, layolty, cash back, and additional verbal negotiation. Could you get it for 33k. (Keep tax and other fees out of this equation). Thanks

Yes 10% reduction from MSRP is very reasonable. As others have mentioned market conditions may influence your pricing. Also EMAIL - internet sales; email all area dealers.

"Hello super dealer, I am interested in stock#### I am ready to buy today at $33k as the selling price of the vehicle. I will only pay state/city mandated taxes and fees."

Or something similar.
 
I saw a msrp sticker price of around $37k on a new 20 reserve. My question is,
If this is a cash deal. What is a comfortable amount to negotiate off that $37k. Including all rebates, layolty, cash back, and additional verbal negotiation. Could you get it for 33k. (Keep tax and other fees out of this equation). Thanks
I agree with your initial post, but you are making the same mistake here!

You said to "keep other fees out of this equation," but that doesn't give you a true price paid.
For example, you could get it for $33K (keeping the "other fees" out), but the dealer charges you a $2000 doc fee, meaning your actual price is $35K.

It should be simple, but almost no one follows this on the prices paid forum...
The total price you paid, minus any government-mandated taxes/fees.
That's it. Nothing more. Nothing less.
 
Is the total for this vehicle? The msrp + tax
I'm not sure what you are asking.

The number you should care about is the total amount paid MINUS government-mandated fees (sales tax, registration, license fees, ect).
So the only thing you should exclude are fees assessed by your state or local government.

The line item cost descriptions are cut off in your picture, so I have no idea what that sticker price includes. Fees you may need to include...
Destination, Dealer Documentation Fee, ADM (additional dealer markup), processing/handling/delivery fees, extended warranties, service plans, protection packages, accessories, window etching, undercoating, Scotchguard, tint, security/alarm, ect.
 
usually 10% off msrp and rebates (when any) on top is a great deal to me. Not always possible but thats another topic.
applies to most cars I think.

not counting dealer doc fees, state registration fees/vehicle use tax and dealer addons (that one is variable and often negotiable).
They are separate items to account for and this is pure profit for the dealer on doc fees and dealer addons.
So do research those as well.
Adding dealer addons for 2k doesnt make sense right? your discount is immediately diminished vs profit for the dealer.
 
It says total MSRP. If one adds their sale tax to that number. It should be the total.
That's the price as set by Mazda. Manufacturer rebates then come off of that amount, then the dealer discount (if any) comes off. State and local taxes and registration fees get added to that
 
My 2019 Signature was MSRP 41,370$ Canadian and I got it for 38,477$ before any feels/taxes, etc.

That's 2893$ off. I was thinking that was a pretty good deal for a Signature, but it's nowhere near 10% off.

My understanding is that the CX-5 is a very highly sought out vehicle and they do not discount them all that much off MSRP.

But seeing some others here getting much heftier discounts makes me wonder if I didn't negotiate enough.
 
depends on time of the year, dealer willing to sell at much lower profit and othet market conditions, etc.. Thats why I mentioned not always possible to easily get that but its possible. My cx5 was around 10% off but there were no rebates (except almost 0% interest which was a plus) back then when I got it. So that was the only discount in my case. But I did go around all the local dealers (two full days on the weekend) until one was willing to discount more.
 
On a 2021 CX-5 Sport (no upgrades), in Florida, I am being offered 10% off MSRP. And I don't qualify for any incentives like their loyalty program, just the 0.9% financing.
 
On a 2021 CX-5 Sport (no upgrades), in Florida, I am being offered 10% off MSRP. And I don't qualify for any incentives like their loyalty program, just the 0.9% financing.
10% off msrp is good discount.

Just be careful if the dealer asks for lots of dealer addons to inflate price further to compensate for the 10%.
If end price is total msrp - 10%, then you are good. The rest is taxes, registrations and doc fees. Good luck.
 
Doc fees should be $300 don't pay more.
Unfortunately you can't dictate or negotiate what the doc fee will be. In many states it can be much closer to $500. It is what it is and one of the hardest things, if not impossible, to get the dealer to remove or negotiate. What you need to do in most cases is negotiate your price knowing that they are going to add that.
 
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