LankyKiwi's Rally-flavored SP20

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2001 Mazda SP20 323
Was up in Auckland on the weekend so I dropped by the massive (700 cars) pick-a-part yard to grab a CV shaft for the demio and to have a look for parts for the SP20

There was a GH Mazda 6 sedan there, so I liberated all of the brake calipers and 2 disks for setup purposes, these things are massive compared to the stock brakes!





Stainless brake lines are on order as well, now these just need a clean up and paint before they get bolted up, need to sort out the handbrake cable as well.

On the supercharger front, we're waiting on a thermostat housing from a Cleaveland V8 a it has the same bolt pattern but the neck sticks straight out, hopefully it'll do the trick.

Should I go whole-hog and pull this motor out? I need to replace the rear mount, and there's a leak at the gearbox end, plus a new clutch and flywheel would be nice... It's making more sense to pull the whole thing, tidy everything up on a stand, paint the bay and the block but it'll be a challenge stopping it from snowballing out of control lol
 
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Mazda protege5
Pull the motor, I need some direction for when I do my parts car haha. In all honesty itll probably be easier to fab everything up with the drivetrain out, but you might run into clearance issues unless your really good with a tape measure. Plus I personally would love to see your build snowball into a full rally build haha keep it up man
 

Riot_Polizei

Comp Engineering Student
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2002 Mazda Protege5
Do tell how those SS brake lines feel once they're! After I got the SS clutch line put in, it got me thinking a lot about SS brake lines.

Whole-hog it, man. If you can maybe clean up the head while you're at it, your car would really appreciate it! And yes, I would totally recommend new flywheel + clutch, preferably sport types if possible. As of tonight, I finished my 500 mile break-in period for my clutch and flywheel, and God does downshifting and rev-matching feel better than ever! So quick and fun...
 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323
Ha, looks like the motor will come out then!

Not for a while at least, baby steps before I tackle something like that :)

In other news, the rear subframe is out, because why not, it has to come out to replace the control arms anyways
The bolts that hold the arms to the hubs took a fair amount of WD-40 and swearing to get out, but patience (and a BFH) won in the end




Hmmmm, a little dirty



A bit of scrubbing and a coat of paint later:



Ready for reassembly! Need to get some replacement swaybar bushes from AWR, this is the second set and they're nearly worn through in the middle
I'm thinking the brackets are a little tight and are causing extra wear so I might tweak them slightly and see what happens
 

Riot_Polizei

Comp Engineering Student
:
2002 Mazda Protege5
(wow)(wow) Damn son, that looks nice! Best of luck with all repairs!

You should ask CR3 if he sells his brackets worldwide. That'll put a stop to your bushings wearing excessively, and enable you to use stronger bushings and brackets.
 
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2003 Mazda Protege5
Nice to see some american muscle going into a Mazda down under lol
My dad has a galaxie with a 351 Cleveland in it. I've yet to see the car run but from what he told me its a beast.
 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323
@Riot, the CR3 shop is like a candy store lol, I need to make a list and email them, getting everything in one order saves shipping but it's a bit harder to plan

@Gabe; It fits too! I wonder how many parts from other brands I can shoehorn in to this project....
Galaxies are cool, got any photos?
 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323
Can someone double check me on the torque setting for the inner bolts on the front lateral links? I've done 'em up to 90 nm as per the workshop manual, but the arms don't move freely on the bolts. The rubber flexes but it seems a little stiff to me.
 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323
I've been channelling my inner Project Binky and have whipped up a rough CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) model for the supercharger



Its not pretty but it fits and it should all work nicely, Once it's finalised I'll draw it up properly and get a steel version cut



The bottom of the charger sits about level with the bottom of the radiator support rail, so it's low, but not in too much danger. The outlet piping is going to wrap around and head forwards in to the bumper, that will need some form of bash guard



Rear subframe is assembled and installed, still need to go through and torque up the lateral link bolts, but I want to do that with wheels on the ground. While I was under there, it seemed like a good idea to chuck the coilovers on...



Sweet! It is away too low as it sits (sump sits about 100mm from the ground) so it will come up eventually, but man does it look good! Can't wait to get it out of the shed and on some back roads now.

The BC coilovers were super easy to install, everything lined up perfectly, which was a surprise! I thought there might be a fight from a few fasteners but the only snag was the passengers rear ABS sensor didn't want to come out and I may have stretched the cable a bit lol. It also looks like the rear seatbelt tower thingys might not fit back on but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it



The all important shoe test, MCM approved!
 
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Riot_Polizei

Comp Engineering Student
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2002 Mazda Protege5
You know, all this handywork you've showcased in your build thread is inspiring me to check out this welding class nearby. 70 bucks for three days of hands-on TIG, MIG, or the third one I'm forgetting about, and they provide the materials. All I gotta do is finish all 2000 other economic responsibilities and I'll be good :^)

Nice work with the suspension! Man I bet it'll handle like a dream now. So envious, lol...
 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323
Do it! Nothing beats hands on experience and learning, especially for skills like welding, $70 is a steal too, but I know those economic pains lol

My fab skills are best described as 'good from a distance' there's no way I'd tackle anything structural or critical without some more training (and a better welder too) but there's nothing better than taking an idea and some lumps of material and sticking them together to get a finished product!

I can. Not. Wait to get this thing back on the road now!
 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323
Well, slow progress is better than no progress...
SC bracket is finalised and the laser cut profiles should arrive next week, New rear sway bar bushes and engine mount inserts ordered from AWR (the bushes and one set of inserts are here, the other set is on the way)

For tits and pickles I chucked some coolant in and backed the car out of the shed, despite sitting for a few weeks it fired right up!






Gahh it looks so good!
This is the initial stance, a little too low and nose-forward at this stage, so it came up 20mm at the front and 10mm at the rear.
Didn't get a photo as it was dark, but now it sits almost level and at a good height.



I've got a Tanabe strut brace kicking around from a Subaru that might look pretty cool in the engine bay, so I might make up some brackets and polish the brace

Rear brakes are next, handbrake cables are out, I've got a name of a place that'll make new, longer ones. Calipers are cleaned and ready for painting, braided brake lines are here, and very, very pretty, it's going to be a shame that all of this shiny new stuff will get covered in road grime and dirt!

Finally, some maths;
Stolen from here: https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Boosted_K_motors

Sp20 crank pully: 145mm
SC14 pully: 113mm
Pully ratio: 1-1.3

FS-ZE redline: 6500rpm
Air consumption at redline: 6500L/min

SC14 puts out 1.4L/rev so,
With current pully ratio, will produce 11,830L/min
Which is 1.82x more than atmospheric consumption

Converting that to approx. Boost using 14.7+X/14.7 = 1.82 (14.7 is atmospheric pressure, X is boost in PSI)

12 psi at redline!(shocked)
 

Riot_Polizei

Comp Engineering Student
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2002 Mazda Protege5
Damn dude...that SC is going to work wonders! What part number is it, or rather what car did it come from again?

Forgot you had those sexy headers. Pacemakers, right? Wish they'd ship to the US, because I'd be all over that.
 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323
Toyota SC14 from a Toyota Previa/Estima minivan, they also came on Chasers and Crowns in the early 90's

I definitely won't be running it at full pressure, apparently the Teflon coating starts melting at around 10psi, and of course, our engines don't like too much boost before things go bang

Yep, pacemaker headers! They sound as good as they look too :)
 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323


Mmmmm shiny

Brake calipers cleaned up and painted nicely


Rear calipers in, this is just about all that needs to be done at the back end of the car, just disks and pads now! (waiting for a sale at the local parts store lol)



Rear View, you can see how the extended handbrake cable runs, I might pop a P-clip on the subframe to hold the cable out of the way of the control arms.



Figuring out intercooler placement and routing up front. By the looks of it, my car doesn't have the big steel crash bar that the pro5 has, which means more room to play with. I'm thinking that I can squeeze a 'cooler between the rad and the latch support if I move the power steering cooler and lines. It should mean no cutting of the body and everything should be nice and tightly packaged

Could someone with a mishimoto rad please measure the overall thickness? Just want to double check that I've got enough room if I go that route

Once this is sorted and the basic piping done, then the engine will be out for tidy/paint/mods/maintenance!
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5


Rear View, you can see how the extended handbrake cable runs, I might pop a P-clip on the subframe to hold the cable out of the way of the control arms.


You had those P-Brake cables built for you right?

How much did they cost?

Is there anything commercially available?




Rear calipers in, this is just about all that needs to be done at the back end of the car, just disks and pads now! (waiting for a sale at the local parts store lol)




Don't forget to get rid of the birds nest. Lol

 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323
Ha! Yep, I need to get under there and clean everything out :)

Cables were custom made by a local firm, fairly pricey at $200NZ each, but they are all brand new with the brackets sandblasted and painted so they look and operate mint.

There might be another option out there, a large car like a Ford Falcon or even a 4wd would probably have long cables that might work. Even the guy that made them said they were unusually long!
 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323
It appears I have a bit of an addiction to these cars...



2000 Familia SP20 with 230,000kms, tiptronic, all the usual SP gear in decent enough condition. Needs new rear brakes and the drivers seatbelt isn't connecting properly (seatbelt light stays on all the time)



This will be the daily driver and parts getter. The Demio did the job but was slow, noisy and actually not that fuel efficient for the size. This SP is a good upgrade!

It'll stay stock.....


.. For now
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
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2002 MP5
.. (seatbelt light stays on all the time)..
There's a little switch inside the seatbelt latch mechanism that has either failed or the connector came off.

You can bypass it by simply unplugging it or ground the wire. (I forget which, I think you ground it)

That circuit does nothing but activate the light and it's not a safety issue.
 

JazzySP20

Madaz
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AUSTRALIA
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BJII Astina SP20
JDM Familia Sport20? Doesn't that have the FSZE? Higher compression for mo' powa! :D

More pic's of the new ride please?
 
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