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Hawk HPS 5.0 Pads and Centric Cryo High Carbon Plain Rotors - What could go wrong?

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2012 Mazda 5 GT, 2015 Mazda 3 5dr S GT Man
So I set out to replace the front Rotors and Pads in my 2012 Mazda 5. While I am no professional mechanic I have done my share of work on cars. I used to Auto X and Road race a 1985 Pontiac Fiero and had replaced pads and rotors, sway bars, eurothane suspension bushings, Koni's and lowered springs, etc etc etc. After watching several you tube video's on replacing 2012 Mazda 5 rotors and pads and feeling very confident in my ability to retain a few hundred dollars in my wallet and improve my braking performance. I ordered Rotors and Pads from TireRack.com. While waiting my delivery, I went about my garage to make sure I had everything ready. Compressor - Check. Air Gun - Check. Jack and Stands - Check. Brake Cleaner, C-Clamp, Brake Lube - Check, Check, Check, ETC, ETC.

So the big day arrives. I flip on the compressor and my air hose (lousy orange plasticky P.O.S.) starts leaking faster than the compressor can handle. Not an auspicious start. So, I zip down to Lowes and get a proper Rubber air hose. I block the rear tires and jack up the front of the car and place the jackstands, remove the front tires and finally start on the brakes. 2 - 17 mm bolts and I have removed the front left caliper and placed on a tool box so it doesn't hang by the brake line. I pull off the retainer spring then compress the caliper. (Yes, I already removed the Brake Master Cylinder cap.) Then I pry out the inside brake pad. Now for the Rotor.... 2- 1/2 hours later, after beating, hammering, spraying with PB Blaster, going inside to watch youtube videos and scour the internet for knowledge on how to free the rotor from the hub I was able to persevere. Hurray! I cleaned and lubed up the pins then reinstalled them added the pads, added a new rotor that I sprayed and wiped with brake cleaner, bolted everything back together and repeated the process on the Passenger side.

I followed the bedding procedure at directed by Hawk Pads. So far so good.

The next day after the brakes warmed up... Good Lord am I driving an old school bus? The brake squeal was insanely load. The brakes worked fantastically, but OMG the brake squeal at low speeds was enough to make you want to volunteer for the upcoming Mars Space Mission. My children asked to be dropped off a block away from school.

So back to the internet. Did I miss something? The pads and rotors looked perfect. So whats wrong? Well, I didn't lubricate the brakes pads Tab's. Hmmm. OK, bring out the jack and the stands, remove the tires, pull the front brakes, Lube everything! Except the rotor's and pad's surfaces.

Yes, repeat the bedding routine. (Couldn't hurt) Everything is working perfectly, no noise, excellent pedal feel etc. Then it's back! The cacophony of the First rehearsal in Music Man! I don't get it. There is nothing left to check! Could the pads be bad?

The brakes work beautifully well. I don't know what else to check about the noise. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
Have same setup but sized for MS3. IIRC, the Hawks come with new shims pre-applied. Take off shims and apply a thin but full coverage of anti-squeal paste (ex. CRC disc quiet). This and a gradual break-in (not bedding) over the course of 200-300 miles will help to settle the caliper piston into the shims, into the pads. Let paste dry before you go driving. The stock ATE brakes are quite simple with not too many moving components. My philosophy is new rotors = time for new fluid; new pads = bleeding.


Above assumes the caliper slider pins move smoothly, the pads retainer clips is holding steady, and the new rotors are turning true.
 
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2012 Mazda 5
Sounds strange. I got el'cheapo eBay set and no noise at all.
Some pads are noisier then others.
 
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2012 Mazda 5 GT, 2015 Mazda 3 5dr S GT Man
Update. About 500 Miles later. I am still having noise at low speed braking after the pads warm up. I was about to throw away the old pads when I noticed the pad shims on them. They appeared to be glued to the back of the pads. These did not come with the Hawk Pads. Old Brake Pads 2.JPG Old Brake Pads 3.JPG Old Brake Pads 1.JPG I took some pictures.
 
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2012 Mazda 5 GT, 2015 Mazda 3 5dr S GT Man
My new Hawk pads clearly did not come with shims. See Photo's. I have contacted TireRack (Where I bought them) and they confirmed that they are supposed to come with Shims attached.

Finally getting to the bottom of my noise problems.
 
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too numerous to name...
Did the shims help the noise issues any? I'm looking to upgrade my front pads and would like to get more bite but without too much shrieking.

Ruby
 
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MAZDA5 09 5spd
Hawk HPS has great stopping power and keep going after braking over and over at high speeds. They are however known for putting out a lot of brake dust and making way too much noise.
 
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2008 Mazda5 GT
Hawk HPS has great stopping power and keep going after braking over and over at high speeds. They are however known for putting out a lot of brake dust and making way too much noise.
Sounds like you have race or aggressive pads. That is the byproduct of stopping; something has to give.

Just to clarify, Hawk carries the HPS, HPS+, and HPS 5.0. The OP and I are referring to 5.0 "street" pads. I wouldn't say they make excessive brake dust but they do work best at temp. Great pads. PSA: the rear pads don't seat into the Mz5 bracket securely. Seems a little undersize leaving a slight bit of play. Should apply a dollop or two of anti-squeal or they clank.
 
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