2010 CX-7 Transmission problem

[Timberwolves]

New to the forum wanted to say hello to everyone. Having a transmission problem. Seemed like transmission was slipping & shifting gears rough. Checked fluid good & not burnt. Start car & no reverse. AT light comes on and bring to mechanic. He looks it over and can't find anything recommends bringing to transmission shop. Bring it to shop this am same symptoms. Transmission mechanic starts car & check engine light is now on. Test drives & reads transmission codes & engine codes. On the transmission scanner he says he is getting a P006C code. Map-Turbo sensor code. Doesn't get code on engine side. On test drive manually shifting everything is fine including reverse. When he puts in drive displays same symptoms. The car has 60,900 miles on it & purchased new by me. The warranty expired 7 months & 900 miles ago. Could that error code from the sensor have anything to do with the transmission issue or just a coincidence ? At a loss, hoping it doesn't need a new transmission. Thanks for the help. John

 

[Timberwolves]

Sorry for the double post, one in the cX-9 longe.

 

[Gtech]

See if you can get the code for the check engine light. The reverse issue could be a number of things or even unrelated to the check engine light. Its possible you have two separate issues here so try and get as much info as possible.

 

[Timberwolves]

The transmission guy changed the map sensor & the engine is not throwing that code anymore. It's not related to the transmission issue. Transmission is slipping in second & fourth gears, and still no reverse. Says transmission needs to be replaced. He told me to bring the car to the dealer and argue that it should be covered under warranty. The car is 900 miles & 7 months past the warranty. Told him I felt funny doing so & he said he has seen dealerships help people out on issues of being over the original warranty. Anyone have any experience with this type of issue? Does the squeaky wheel always get the oil ? The estimated from him for a rebuilt unit with a 2 year warranty is $3000 ouch! Thanks John.

 

[eskimo0101]

You can try the dealership route but I wouldn't hold my breath. You're not just 900 miles AND 7 months out of warranty, you're 7 months out of warranty. That's a decent amount of time past the warranty expiration and the warranty is mileage or time, which ever comes FIRST. You could be 20k miles under the warranty limit but you're still 7 months out of warranty.

Where dealers will sometimes push to cover something like this out of warranty is when you've been a regular service customer of theirs. My guess is since you brought the car to an independent shop first you probably haven't been getting much service at the dealer though (and who can afford to honestly).

 

[Gtech]

Ok, from your original post I assumed it was shifting smoothly in manual. As suggested you can try the dealer, worst case they turn you away. Either way its worth trying to save a couple thousand. Shop around for a transmission before you even commit to the price you were quoted.

 

[Scott91370]

Be as nice as possible at the dealer. Look around for reviews to see which one seems to be more friendly. Some dealerships will do good faith work even after the warranty has expired.

 

[autozam]

actually what are the trans codes. I would at least get the codes scanned at dealer. kind of have to. trans codes will not show up on most aftermarket scanners. may not need a trans. could be as simple as a shift solenoid or a turbine sensor. if the AT light came on there is a trans code. which is still a P code most of the time. and as far as making a stink you could but unless you are a regular customer who can prove maint records they will not help you. things don't last forever. your trans is a ford. if a six speed auto it takes tiv trans. I done ever remember putting a trans in a cx 7. and only 1 or 2 cx 9s. there is always a first tho. more then likely it is something simple. you know trans will act up and shift horriblyr not at all over a 100 dollar turbine sensor which is just a newer type speed sensor for the torque converter which is on the outside of the trans. well mounted outside. have the codes checked properly then go from there. after marker shops done know the cars. if it shifts funny they drop Trans's . dealer will find route and put in a sensor that fixes the issue. and on affording dealer. ....yes if you do all the dealer maint. they want you to do it is expensive. down right ridiculous. however you do mazda book maint. its actually cheaper. dealer did not come up with additives and fuel services. we done you leaded fuels anymore people. no need for that crap. drain and refill fluids at good intervals is the best thing you can do for you car. fact is. tiv fluid in your cx7 if a six speed I would drain and fill every 60k. once issue is resolved. drain and refill with dealer fluid. you can do your self. there is a drain plug. trans flush with additives from dealer is like 250 dollars or more. which there is no need for additives. if mazda wanted them in the car they would provide the. BG or Valvoline and MOC provides that crap. its so the dealer can make money. I work at one yes. but I don't agree with the things they do. you can make an honest dollar without gimmicks by just loyal business and doing it right. yeah they think money money money. back to the topic. you most likely done need a trans. I have never seen a cx-7 get a trans unless self inflicted. a line leak that wasn't fixed etc... but to just go out. nah. hope this helped.

 

[autozam]

sorry for the bad typing. I did not edit like I normally do and my computer does auto correct which most of the time is not correct at all.

 

[Timberwolves]

Thanks for the replies. Friday morning I picked the car up from the tranny shop and dropped it off at the dealership. Late Friday afternoon the service writer called me back. They looked at the car briefly. He said they pulled a few tranny codes from it. A gear ratio error code, shift sensor code & a transmission control module code. He asked if he could keep it over the weekend. The tech he wants to look at it further was off on Friday and would be in on Monday. I'm hoping that it's not serious, could it be a sensor or solonoid ? Thanks John.