Yes the car has been on the dyno a few times. DRtuned just released tuning support over the weekend and I'm not sure what the forum rules are for posting to a vendors site but I'll post the link to my video. This first release is to change drivability, this is for the people that don't want to increase peak boost but want the car to feel and perform better and he has labeled it an OEM+ tune. The next release will be chasing peak horsepower and pushing more boost, timing, etc. Cliffnotes are 18 peak whp and 33 lb ft torque at peaks and 50-60 whp and lb ft under the curve at various points. The car pulls to redline, turbo spools much quicker and in my opinion is how the car should have come from the factory.Was this dyno ever performed? Would love to see results.
For safety, you need to keep intake air as cold as possible, so bigger intercooler (air to air). Do NOT use a 'cold air intake' that pulls air from the engine compartment. Honestly, the stock intake probably flows more than enough.
I'd like to get your thoughts on the BMS intake. Most are naturally skeptical of claimed power increases from intakes, but they have posted Dyno gains.Yes, what the MAF tells you is simply the airflow going through the system. With an increase in boost pressure and the MAF readings following it that shows the air is being used. The factory system flows pretty well, we'll run into turbo sizing issues before anything really becomes a major bottleneck.
2 points:Note that most every “dyno test” is performed with the hood open, guaranteeing that the coldest air available goes into the intake. With the hood closed all the air going into many intakes goes through the radiator first, so it’s much hotter. Dyno tests may not mimic real-world results - but they do work well to sell aftermarket parts.
Of course I don’t know how BMS runs their testing, but I do know that tuners I’ve purchased from them in the past lived up to their claims based on my butt dyno and track times. Cold air intakes, I’m not so sure.
Note that most every “dyno test” is performed with the hood open, guaranteeing that the coldest air available goes into the intake. With the hood closed all the air going into many intakes goes through the radiator first, so it’s much hotter. Dyno tests may not mimic real-world results - but they do work well to sell aftermarket parts.
Of course I don’t know how BMS runs their testing, but I do know that tuners I’ve purchased from them in the past lived up to their claims based on my butt dyno and track times. Cold air intakes, I’m not so sure.
I'm not sure about the BMS system but the one that puts the filter out of the engine bay would likely be the best for heatsoak and cooler air. I ran the Corksport TIP and SRI on my car until recently. It had a very annoying harmonica like sound that I hated. I swapped the SRI with the factory airbox and a higher flow AFE panel filter and use the Corksport TIP. The harmonica noise is gone (as are the BOV noises) and am also seeing higher MAF readings than with the SRI and vs stock.I'd like to get your thoughts on the BMS intake. Most are naturally skeptical of claimed power increases from intakes, but they have posted Dyno gains.
Also this tuning solution looks really nice. Especially after the JB4 price increase.
I remember seeing that video. Interesting. I do want the BOV noises thoughI'm not sure about the BMS system but the one that puts the filter out of the engine bay would likely be the best for heatsoak and cooler air. I ran the Corksport TIP and SRI on my car until recently. It had a very annoying harmonica like sound that I hated. I swapped the SRI with the factory airbox and a higher flow AFE panel filter and use the Corksport TIP. The harmonica noise is gone (as are the BOV noises) and am also seeing higher MAF readings than with the SRI and vs stock.
I'm on my first tune from DRTuned.@AL Cx5 how has your tune been?
I'm on my first tune from DRTuned.
I'm happy with this tune. It works just like the OEM tune but has a nice pickup in power to 5k rpm. Wish the Ecu would allow it to spin to 7k. Lol
We drove 800 miles to view the eclipse loaded with camping gear. The return was a lot of stop and go due to traffic, heavy rain and road construction. We averaged 31 mpg over the trip. One tank was 33 mpg. For a turbo, under these conditions I was pleased. I think I got one tank of old, sub par 93 Oct. Fuel efficiency dropped on this tank.
I used to big displacement, torquy engines, like a Cummis turbo charged 5.9 and such. The CX 5 T is much more sensitive to weight, rain than my other vehicles. This not bad, just another observation.
David is very methodical and careful with adding power. After the starter tune, I submitted a log per his detailed instructions. He then will email a revised tune, hopefully adding more power. He is responsive and sticks to his schedule. All good.
In sport mode it moves out nicely in first and second. Not a Dodge Hell Cat acceleration but quick. I passed one car on a 2 lane highway on our trip. Even loaded it passed effortless with plenty of power to spare, without down shifting.
The software is not user friendly but with enough persistence it works. I'm use to HP Tuners and Holley efi. Mazda Edit is like stepping in time at back in time 15 years or more.
I like that my wife drives the car and it's tame. I wouldnt let her drive some of my other cars. The tunes brought the on power quickly.
We are takimg it on a 1200 mile trip next week. It will be interesting to see how it does with less weight and lighter wheels.
I would do it again.
Who's TIP are you going to use? CS?Nice report. It's on my list after springs, wheels & tires, and TIP.
CS. But as with most mods that increase airflow, they also decrease velocity. So I would expect (and CS graphs appear to show) a reduction in power below 2200 rpm.Who's TIP are you going to use? CS?
I'm waiting for your review and if it increases turbo noise into the cabin and fuel efficiency, FE.
I would like to see CS post stock vs CS TIP at several partial throttle positions. Like 20%, 40%, 60% throttle.
Since I don't race the CX 5, WOT is mostly meaningless to me. I can count on 2 hands how many times it's been to WOT. And 4 of those were to logging per DRTuned instructions.
I've looked at this WOT dyno graph.I might recommend you skip the TIP. As with most mods that increase airflow, they also decrease velocity. So I would expect (and CS graphs appear to show) a reduction in power below 2200 rpm.
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Me, I think we have enough on tap that I'm not worried about it.