I took it to the dealer yesterday and they told it is normal. The technician said that it is a normal noise coming from the relays and other components related to the MRCC. Don't know if BS or not. My previous Mazda 6 2014 with the MRCC feature never made those noises whe accelerating by itself. Can anybody else verify this noise when using the MRCC?
Sounds like BS to me. If you are reporting the same "knock" that I describe in my reply, this has absolutely nothing to do with MRCC components.
Listen, I never take any new vehicle I've ever owned directly to the dealer without first calling the OEM, reporting my problem (making a claim) and then having an OEM representative (usually corporate customer service) make the dealer appointment on my behalf. That way, when I arrive at the dealer the service manager has already been contacted by corporate, read the complaint and tends to deal with the matter more seriously.
I don't drive into a dealership with a "problem." I drive into the dealership with an OEM documented "complaint" and an OEM scheduled appointment. This puts everybody on notice and it starts the documentation off right, if the matter turns into a Lemon Law case. In other words, I notice everyone up front that I'm not interested in wasting my time with being told that the Torque Converter an Multi-Disk Clutch design coupled to a wide rotational variation in the Drive Shaft that's causing "knock" during acceleration from low RPM, or "lugging" between 1,200 RPM and 900 RPM, is somehow being triggered by the Radar Cruise Control System's components. The more specific you can be before you enter the dealer for inspection and the more homework you can do on the probable mechanical causation, the more you can focus their attention and the more BS cycles you can knock down before they actually solve the real underlying problem.
Here's the deal. Dealerships have underlying contracts with OEMs to do warranty work on your vehicle at much lower rates than what they can charge you retail as a customer. Dealerships have a limited number of racks and a limited number of mechanics. Those are both revenue generating assets to them. If their rack and mechanic is being "tied up" with OEM contract work - then then they are not charging you $300 for an oil change and not up-selling you on service and maintenance that you don't need or could easily wait another 40,000 miles to do. If they can chase you away with a BS MRCC or XYZ storyline (knowing full well they are lying to your face) then that allows them to fill that workspace with a vehicle that increases their revenue for the quarter.
Here's where we are in the United States. The police can lie to you in order to get you to incriminate yourself. They can tell you something that is not true, get you to say something you never should have said and then ding you with a citation or arrest for having done so. Perfectly legal. A dealer can lie to you in order to get you to leave their facility, so that they never have to do warranty work on a vehicle at a much lower rate paid by the OEM - while using their limited assets to charge another customer higher rates for doing work that is either out of warranty and/or completely unnecessary. That's the world we've created for ourselves. That's the economy we tolerate.
- Educate yourself as much as possible about the matter before visiting a dealer
- Always file a complaint (if under warranty) with the OEM directly and get them to set your appointment with the service manager
- Get the OEM (corporate) to agree to a final solution that fully satisfies you (this is who you negotiate with - not the dealer)
- Let the OEM (corporate) know how "happy" or "unhappy" you are with your vehicle and why
Leverage the OEM to assist you at the Dealer. Never "Cold Call" a dealer about potential warranty work. They will often give you the cold shoulder, if you do. Warm things up through the OEM, first - then go visit your OEM scheduled appointment at the dealer. Back-up and try again using the above with a different dealer and then notice the different outcome. The Mazda USA phone number is in your "Warranty Information" manual on page 8 (for 2018 models).
Mazda, is a good company. The dealer network is sketchy. You may have to work a bit to locate a solid dealer near you. All the best with this.