n/a ecu in an msp?

THANK YOU!!!!! LOL, That is what we have been saying throughout this entire thread!!! The maps will run the car fine up to atmospheric pressure. As soon as the car sees boost, that's it. He would need something to tune with. Simply swapping ECUs isn't going to work with the MSP

I would not be surprised if some where down the line it would NEED management. I'd love to see what kind of a/f's it would throw tho and to try it without
 
not going to get into a debate about your gtx setup but if you do a lil googling I remember a few guys from back in the day with gtx swapped escort gt's who ran upwards 300whp on 10psi+ awesome motors well capeable of more then the numbers you've got.

Did you not read my post all it has is dp back exhaust chipped ecu and vj11. Not getting more than 220 out of that set up
 
I would not be surprised if some where down the line it would NEED management. I'd love to see what kind of a/f's it would throw tho and to try it without

If you want to waist your money go for it. But coming from someone who thinks low 13s for afr is ok and clearly understands nothing about tuning and refuses to listen to people who clearly have more knowledge of the subject than you, you will probly not care and run it till it blows then ask " why did my car blow up"

I really hope Brian will chime in on this
 
If you do this after everything we said, You will see exactly what we are talking about as soon as you go into boost. Just hope you don't blow while doing it. I doesn't take much or take long. There is a reason Jspeed is running EMS along with the ECU. Obviously, we aren't getting anywhere. I wish there was a way to tag people in threads
 
in that case turn down the boost because its just a hair dryer on that vj11 lol useless past 10psi

O really? You think you know so much? Ok why am I not the only one runing 16-18 psi? Do you even know what my intake temps are? No? I've never seen them over 100 on 20 psi.
 
in that case turn down the boost because its just a hair dryer on that vj11 lol useless past 10psi

coming from a guy who wants to run a NA ECU on a boosted protege. Also, if your mods in your sig are still the same. I would stick with the msp ecu. Heatsoak isn't going to help at all
 
Don't listen to all these haters man. I think you should do it. Be a pioneer. Do you have a boost controller? If yes, it'll probably work best if you crank that puppy up a little before the test drive. 10-12 psi should do the trick, but if you want it to really rip, go for 15ish.

(evil)
 
Do it and post some results!

Seriously though.... If the N/A ECU worked great Mazda wouldn't have spent the time to completely rewrite the ECU for the MSP. If you're gonna go for it then have some way to monitor knock, wb02, and start at very low psi. I'd start at about 3psi.

The (flashed) MSP ECU is waaay too timing happy in the midrange. I would expect the same from an N/A ECU when boosted and I would expect it to run extremely lean in boost. Things could go wrong very, very quickly.
 
Don't listen to all these haters man. I think you should do it. Be a pioneer. Do you have a boost controller? If yes, it'll probably work best if you crank that puppy up a little before the test drive. 10-12 psi should do the trick, but if you want it to really rip, go for 15ish.

(evil)
+1
I've got my old p5 ecu for sale ready to ship! I'll give you a special price. ;)
 
You have found the loophole. Just throw the N/A ECU on a turbo car and you will make some real horsepower, no tune needed.
 
I'm with the non-haters here. Should work like a charm. I agree that you will be a pioneer and I believe it should make for some pretty baller results.

I think nitrous would be the logical next step after this mod.
 
I'm with the non-haters here. Should work like a charm. I agree that you will be a pioneer and I believe it should make for some pretty baller results.

I think nitrous would be the logical next step after this mod.

Yep 300 shot, it may be lean enough for it.
 
mikewashere, I wouldn't do it. The MSP ecu runs the car pig rich, but its because if you go too lean, stock rods like to come out the block. if that is something you would like to risk, then make sure you follow through and let us know what your AFRs are like. There have been plenty of times where people have said don't do it, or it won't work(They have been right and wrong) and they may argue with you, but ultimately they don't want you to waste unnecessary time and\or money on the MSP. Its your car so you should do as you please, but keep in mind that this is a 10 year old car and some members have that much experience with it
 
I really hope Brian will chime in on this

I have not replied because the question was so out to lunch and obvious that I figured that it would take all of "Maximum Boost" and several other Haynes manuals to explain to the OP.
(Who obviously lacks any basic understanding of Engine Dynamics)



OP: You posted that you want an NA ECU to run the MSP Kit. Then you defended it... Then you said that Obviously you would add management...

What is it man, You are flopping like a wet noodle.



AFR = Thermal Management
Timing = Power


Rules Of Thumb.

Low Compression Ratio = More boost safely, but with less off boost torque.
More Ignition = More power but closer to detonation.
More AFR = More cooling, Same power, less economical... less likely to detonate (Sloppy way to fix something that should be tuned rather than watered down with gas)

**** My Life
 
A lot of you guys are being unnecessarily harsh considering NONE of you have any experience with the setup. FWIW, I actually considered swapping my stock P5 ECU back in my old turbo'd P5 (been running a flashed MSP ECU).

I think what the OP was trying to get at was to utilized the slightly more advanced timing of the base N/A ECU WITH some sort of additional engine management (to control fuel and possibly timing) to eek out a little more power. We all know Mazda's tune on these cars was extremely conservative and there's plenty of room for improvement. If the boost is kept relatively low (<12 psi) who's to say you couldn't bump up the timing on a MSP to gain a few HP here and there? I think a N/A ECU along with the SS AFC v3 (which can retard timing) would be a good cheap option for people wanting to alter more than just the air-to-fuel ratios. Before I sold the car I was going to try my N/A ECU, SS AFC v3, and 12 psi on an upgraded stock turbo with water/meth injection.
 
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Thanks for all the positive and negitave feedback guys all of which has been helpful to answer my question. It's more then clear now that yes, an n/a Ecu will not just bolt in and run better then an msp Ecu. I'm wondering how it will run with an n/a Ecu and some management
 
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