Protege 5 rust

The CP process has been perfected for over 20 years yes indeed but for buildings, bridges, and ships, NOT automobiles. And seeing as you must have skipped high school science class let me explain. You need a constant to make your circuit work. For buildings or bridges its soil and for ships water. But seeing as your car is not sitting immersed in the ocean and you dont park it in a dirt pit every night, you therefore have no constant. In other words you have small fragments of current roaming around but to no specific area and never all over at once. Now sure a little bit of water gets on there while driving, or when its raining but its not a solid mass. Its sparadic therefore it does not and can not make a complete connection.

The people who promote this s*** are the same people who produce infomercials. Someone comes out with a new product, a day later theres 10 more commericals for the same damn thing all claiming theyre better when its the same s*** different name and story and each one tries to makes theres look and sound better with some technical lingo that evidently you fell for.

Now, cars do come straight from the factory with what is known as Zinc Electroplating which they do to the chassis to prevent rust but it only lasts so long and not to mention there was no rust to begin with. There are some good rust inhibitor products out there but you still have to be careful.

Electronic rust proofing is nothing but a money grab. You my friend as they say got swindled!

Perhaps you should take your own advice about the google and wikipedia, but first may I recommend you learn to read and comprehend because without it youll learn nothing.
 
swindled no. Got mine free. Skipped hs science no math yes. Besides I think this has more to do with "electronics" than science.
Lol vehicles have a constant. Its called chassis ground. How do you think your accesories work cuz if it wasn't constant nothing would turn on. And if thats not enough u could always bolt up a grounding strap and let it drag under ur car. I have no rust. And being there are current laws against false advertisement and the ppl are still selling their "s***" it must work.

Comprehend LOL. Sorry eh guru. Hehe hope u get rust :)
 
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Wow, that the best you can do..look I'm not gonna argue, believe what you want to but let me explain first my reasoning behind what I said.

The constant I was referring to was a conductor not the ground. The conductor for this process to work needs to contain significant amounts of moisture that are always there to work properly, at least for the original CP process. This smaller verson which comes in many different names uses what is called DCP.

Now DCP will work if you've got enough zinc panels inside or up underneath your car somewhere for the electrons to go and corrode however the zinc is what makes it exspensive. They try to confuse you or impress you with some fancy lingo about a high end electronic smart box and it does this this and this but it really does not a whole lot.

The whole process of DCP is to send electrons from the metal to a (+) charged anode in these systems (usually a zinc panel), however the only metal aside from the little nodes connected to your frame is some fancy extra strong aluminum tape. See the current goes from your battery to the round ground circle patch (node), that patch then sends out an impressed current through your frame which pushes the electrons to a (+)charged anode, the whole point that anode rusts before your metal right. Sounds great eh, only problem is there aren't any panels. If you look inside your car I highly doubt you'll find any zince panels. All that's connected to your car are those little round electronic patch circles (nodes) that aren't even solid and then a couple of wires are connected to the battery and that tiny computerized box. That's it! Theres no Zinc other than those little patches IF they contain it which there are only four maybe six of in total. Usually two in the front and two in the back on the quarter panels. No do you honestly think those little nodes which are made out of zinc are nearly big enough in size do really any good?

Also to do any good these systems generally would have to use a large amount of power which they claim they've downsized through they're little computerized box so there's no big power drains...red flag!

All in all it's a load of hogwash (huge money grab in an upcoming money making industry) IMHO and that is my opinion but obviously not yours. It's just not logical no matter which way they spin the story. Do some research into the science behind it, I mean really research it, if you don't believe me. Don't believe just some product specs or what some guy tells you. All I'm saying is it's not something I wouldn't invest money in unless they could without a doubt prove to me other wise. I'm glad you didn't pay any money for it but, I'd still be on the look out for rust.
 
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:) btw checked out ur car domian. Nice pic. Anyhow I'll take your word for it when I get some rust. Until then I'm a believer. Hehe
 
hehe we can because we're a little rock surrounded by salt water xD


Ditto, minus the rock and warmth, add sand and freezing.

I am seriously gonna consider that anti-rust device after I touch up.
Inducing a charge to your body panels to repel other charged particles sounds basic to me.

I have some RUST on the passenger rear quarterpanel and some on the driver side door corner.

:cool:
 
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i may be wrong but I just went to the dealer to get my work done and he checked delivery date if I am not mistaken.
 
I bought a 2002 P5 used from a private seller back in July of 06 in Calgary. I spoke to a dealership then and they said it wasnt covered. But now you guys are saying it was supposed to be. Im going to go try talk to a dealership or possibly call Mazda Canada and complain. I have some rust issues, the hatch being the worst, which really annoys me. And its such a common problem. This should have been fixed awhile ago.

Where in Canada do you live that you were able to have it covered under warranty?
 
MP5 and rust issues

I purchased a used MP5 2002 in 2006... Madly fell in love with the thing and drove it over 60 000 km in a little over a year. I'd still have it were it not for the RUST!

The previous owner obviously never had it rustproofed and I was living in salty Montral. No hope there... Soon after I had purchased it, both rear wheel wells revealed deep rust problems. Mazda did replace them at no cost, but then the paint job was badly done and the clearcoat had to be repaired twice... I also had the black struts along the window in the rear doors replaced because of rust at the base.

When I moved outside the province, I figured there was no way I was bringing my rust bucket with me and replaced the car before I moved. By then, it had bubbles along the front of the hood, around the "Proteg5" sign on the hatch, and rust at the front corner of the rear door windows on the inside. The rust perforation warranty had expired a few months earlier. I just wish Mazda used less recycled steel in their cars, because they are great otherwise. This car had great style, performance, and would have given me years of enjoyment, had it not had that major rust issue.

Good luck getting dealerships to pay for rust that has not perforated. I tried.
 
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Well I did my driver side today, the Mazda underseal man should be shot in the head and then sacked!!! (notcool)
We don't get bad snow like some of you guys, but we do get salt/grit mixture spread on all our roads.
I can't really go to Mazda with mine, as I've kinda modified my arches to take RX8 rims..... we otherwise have a 6 year anti-perforation warranty, which usually means the rust has to come through the top paint.
I done all the painting with brushes, and next week I'll flat it down and spray laquer on it.

archrust5.jpg

archrust8.jpg

archrust10.jpg

archrust13.jpg
 
the dealer here in Montreal has agreed to redo the rear fenders even tho there is no hole in them as it is a common problem.... fight it if they say no
 
hm, so there might still be a chance the dealer would fix my 2002 at this late date? Have the same rust issue on the right rear wheel well lip, plus just around the R and the O in the Protege 5 nameplate on the hatch.
 
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i would say so, I'll post as soon as my car goes in and I will ask the dealer how it works exactly and let you all know !
 
I found rust bubbles on the hood by the headlamp. Looked under the door seems and found some minor buildup. Also found some buildup in the rear wells. I clean the wells and zapped some fresh paint so that one is solved for now. I've got to do something about the other spots though. Car is first run P5. For those who don't know the steel used on the P5's is zinc coated which is a rust inhibitor and works very well.
 
me too..

Just thought I'd add myself to to the list... mine is also a blue 2002 P5.

Rusting in the exact same places. What clearly says its a Mazda problem
is the rust under the hatch "Protege 5" emblem.

Tried to get it fixed under warranty last year and year before with Mazda
usa and dealer to no avail. They said it must be rusted through. My one
rear wheel well where the paint was rubbed off by the side skirt is rusted through. I was explicity told anything remotely near the wheel well is considered stone chips that did it (including the skirt rubbing the paint off).

Most reliable car we've ever owned but its rusting to pieces now. The metal toward the rear of the car does not seem zinc coated or galvanized at all. Other color P5s I've seen have seemed better. I know they have a piece of rubber between the body and side skirt
now. My non-glavanized 12 year old saab had less rust on it.

If anyone knows a way to get Mazda to honor their warranty I'd love to hear it. While the car hasn't passed its 6 year delivery date
the company showed no interest in honoring the warranty.
 
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Don't bank on the color theory. My black mica `03 is showing signs of car cancer in all the typical spots - rear wheel wells. I would like to see them call it stone chips, as mine has bubbled through the paint, but there's no signs on rust on the inside -- figure that one out.

Absolutely love the car. I still love the sound of the motor revving over 4000 rpm. I really don't abuse it, and have put Mobil 1 full synthetic in it since 1500 miles or so. Now have 50,000 miles on the clock, and was only to the dealer once for a leaky sunroof. It was promptly fixed and has been damn reliable since.

My rear sway bar bushings need some love, but that's just wear and tear when you're dealing with road salt 6-7 months a year. Rubber doesn't last forever!

If I have to fix it on my dime, I might just become an apprentice body man. I don't even want to know how much it would cost. I would love to mask off the rear wheel wells and spray them down with that rubberized bed liner stuff.

I think the primary fault is a crappy clear coat job. I've seen that complaint since first joining these boards. I love the car, though. It's served me well, and we're looking at a Mazda for my wife's next car -- that's what manufacturer's want to hear. So, if anyone from Mazda corporate is out there listening...take care of us, we're young and will be buying cars for the next 50+ years. Once the P5 becomes a complete rust bucket, I'll probably pick up a low mileage RX8 for summer use.
 
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