Synthetic oil a must??

M

MarkSpecV/M3S

Member
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04' Mazda 3 S / Nissan SE-R Spec V
This is my woman's car and I haven't looked in owners manual yet, but is sythetic oil a must in 3 S ?? Dealer was saying something about Ford motors and them changing to synthetic and such in new cars...

Just wanted info. if you know the engine calls for synthetic or not? I know it is better for the car and all..


Thanks!

*I did try to search but didn't find anything.
 
MarkSpecV/M3S said:
This is my woman's car and I haven't looked in owners manual yet, but is sythetic oil a must in 3 S ?? Dealer was saying something about Ford motors and them changing to synthetic and such in new cars...

Just wanted info. if you know the engine calls for synthetic or not? I know it is better for the car and all..


Thanks!

*I did try to search but didn't find anything.
Click to expand...

The factory fill is Motorcraft 5W20 semi-synthetic. I've done the bulk of my breaking-in and will be having my oil changed with Mobil1 0w20 synthetic tomorrow. Mobil1 recommends the 0w20 for replacing 5w20 in Ford, hence Mazda, applications. Many people have switched to the Mobil1 0w20 and done used-oil analysiseseses with excellent results.

Mazda's official stance on synthetic is that they have not done any testing on it. They have issued a blanket recommendation not to use it, simply because some of the older rotary engines experienced problems. Those with the new rotaries in the RX-8's are running synthetics without any problems now, as well.

~Bart~
 
Since when did the Mazda 3 come with a Ford engine? Synthetic is not a must, just added expense. Read the owner's manual.

However, its your money, spend it how you want.
 
just to confirm what bvmazda3 said about mazda not testing with synthetic. i sent them an email asking if i should use synthetic ATF in my p5 and the answer was:

"In regard to your inquiry, Mazda recommends replacing the transmission
fluid every 30,000 miles. Mazda recommends using ATF M-III or
equivalent, such as DEXRON III. Mazda does not test any of our vehicles
using synthetic fluids. As such, we do not recommend the use of
synthetic fluids."

it sounds like they don't test engines with synthetic either. are they stuck in 20century or something. not impressed with their engineers at all.
 
3junky said:
Since when did the Mazda 3 come with a Ford engine?
Click to expand...

Hmm.. maybe because the bottom of the engine was designed by Ford? And, from what I remember, the bottom of the engine is where a lot of the oil ends up. But maybe I should check the manual first.


3junky said:
Synthetic is not a must, just added expense. Read the owner's manual.
Click to expand...

Do your homework before spewing out misinformed opinions.


~Bart~
 
So it sounds like you guys are not sure. For me it does not matter at the moment seeing that my dealer does all of my oil changes for the next 3 years for free.
 
if it's free then hell you are cool...I swaped to 0w-20 on my 2.3 and it runs like stock. the gain from the oil is like 2 mpg if you are one of those sticklers on mpg driving under vvt people. AND YES THE ENGINE BLOCK ON US-SPEC VEHICLES is duratec 2.3 from focus. mazdaspeed version of the vehicles have the jdm blocks IIRC but don't fully quote me on that one just yet... going synthetic tranny fluid also hepls squeeze a few mpg out the car as well but thats another post in it's self.
 
Synthetic oil has too many benefits to ignore.

1) Increased horsepower and torque.
2) Increased mileage.
3) Better protection
4) Better TBN, allowing for extended intervals.
5) Synthetic doesn't bind with combustion byproducts like dino oil can, preventing sludging and varnish build up in an engine. Pull the valve covers off a syn engine at 100k, and it looks almost brand new.

For more information on synthetic oils...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

For UOA of Mazda 6i's with synthetic and stock oils, visit....
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=26
 
bvmazda3 said:
Do your homework before spewing out misinformed opinions.
Click to expand...

All I am saying is that it is not required and it costs quite a bit more. There are advantages to using it such as less engine buildup and longer intervals between changes, true. Like I said, its your money, spend it how you want. For me, I do exactly as the manual tells me. Change the oil every 5K (I am going in for my first change this weekend and I am at 4800). Use 5w20, etc. To each his own. I wasn't trying to piss anybody off (dunno)
 
thats cool but right on the botle it says for 5w-20. if yo are part of that free oil changes then you will get the motorcraft semisyn5w-20 no matter what cause the dealership isn't gonna change brands...cost is in play. Aot of us are autocrossers and unfortunately(Not Me) Local street racers will benefit from it...there are uoa's from the autocrossers and they told them they could go longer cause there was no wear in the engine nor the oil properties to really warrant a change. If you are one of theose avery 2000 miles people then yes you can use the walmart oil cause it won't be in long enough to do damage. I'm one of those 3 month people...I use a diy lift and change my own oil cause as many stated "I like bonding with the car :)"


PS the cartridge setup is fun and breaks up the manotomy(SP?) of changing the oil. Til someone shows the cartrige is worse setup than traditional spin on. Also found walmart just stocked on a 0W-40?
 
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One thing to note for anyone reading this thread...the first oil change should be EXTREMELY early. Before 2000 miles is heavily recommended, with the majority of critics/experts saying that a 1,000 mile oil change is best. (Miles on the odometer)

The amount of wear metals in the first 1000 miles is greater then 10,000 miles of wear later in the car's life, and many of these metals are not caught by the oil filter (too small), and go flinging around the engine, causing a cascading wear effect.

UOA's done on factory fill oil changes, done at a factory interval (like 5 or 7.5k, or even 10k for some luxury cars) usually show 10-20 TIMES more wear then an average oil change.

Change your oil early, get those wear metals outta the engine. Your car will thank you. Motorcraft 5w-20 Semi-Syn (stock fill) is 1.40/qt at wallmart.

(Note: You should technically change your filter at this time as well)

Always remember that manufacturer recommendations are for THEM, not for you. Your own interval's can only be found by performing UOA's, based on your driving habits, conditions, and environment. (UOA = Used Oil Analysis)

http://www.bobistheguy.com
http://www.blackstone-labs.com

The last thing the manufacturer (and especially the dealer) wants, is for your car to last 300,000 miles :).
 
So I f'd my car up by waiting till 5K for the first change? I have only had it about 2 months.. I know, I drive alot. I hit 1K within 2 weeks. Why wouldn't Mazda recommend the 1K change in the manual? Bastards.. oh well, as long as she lasts me 100K I will be happy as that is when it is time to sell and get the mazdaspeed3 (please will you make one Mazda?)
 
3junky said:
All I am saying is that it is not required and it costs quite a bit more. There are advantages to using it such as less engine buildup and longer intervals between changes, true. Like I said, its your money, spend it how you want. For me, I do exactly as the manual tells me. Change the oil every 5K (I am going in for my first change this weekend and I am at 4800). Use 5w20, etc. To each his own. I wasn't trying to piss anybody off (dunno)
Click to expand...

No, it isn't required. But, as crossbow put it, synthetic has too many benefits to ignore. Doing exactly as the manual tells you is not always the best procedure. They have those intervals in there for the "average" driver, and is rather biased. They (the dealer & manufacturer) would rather have you buy parts from them after your warranty expires, than have you running around in a reliable, rarely worn engine 5 or 6 years from now.

Let's admit it... A lot of us on this board are spirited drivers at the least. I know I don't baby my car all that much when driving, so I want to take every other precaution possible to ensure it will last as long as it can. I'll do everything I have control over, encompassing maintenance, that will better my chances that my li'l whip will last through the beatings it's going to take.

Oil type, viscosity, and change intervals can make the difference in the life of the engine. While the cost involved is higher, I take great satisfaction that I will have considerably less engine wear than if I hadn't used synthetic.

Well, I suppose I overreacted and I apologise. I just felt that issuing a blanket statement with the intonation that synthetics are essentially money wasted was not a correct assumption, and required more discussion.

Nonetheless - no hard fellings? (thumb)

~Bart~

Edit: P.S. I just had the dealer change my oil today. Brought them Mobil1 0W20 synthetic to fill it with (I'd have done it myself, but they gave me the 1st 2 scheduled services for free).
 
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factoryfill2.gif


Here's an excellent example of why to change the oil early. Matt just got his UOA back from just 1,277 miles. Numbers in bold are excessive wear, which is out of spec (normal for breakin).

Now here's a car just 8000 miles later (and 2 oil changes after the first).
http://www.mazda6tech.com/images/uoa/2nduoa.pdf

Note that not only the wear is lower, its also significantly lower per mileage. This is still not a broken in engine (broken-in is usually classified as after 20k miles), so the numbers will eventually be even lower. Getting rid of those early breakin metals is an excellent first step/mod, for your new car.

Not doing it won't "harm" anything. But it sure isn't good having all that crap floating around in there.

More Mazda 6 UOA's at
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=26

All Mazda 6i UOA's directly apply to the 3s.
 
It was mentioned that if you take it to the dealer you'll get Motorcraft 5w-20 semi synthetic. This isn't always the case, it depends on the dealer. At 1100 miles I was on a trip out of state and I found a dealer and had my first oil change done and they did use the Motorcraft. Where I live there are 4 Mazda dealerships in town:
- 1 uses Penzoil (non-synthetic) and charges 29.95-- 18.95 if you bring in your own oil.
- 1 uses Penzoil (non-synthetic) and charges 28.00 -- 20.00 if you bring in own.
- 1 uses Mobil (non-synthetic) and charges 28.95 -- same price if you bring own.
- 1 couldn't tell me what kind they used (I called a few different times and asked different people in service dept and none could) and wanted 64.95 for a 5k service (checking things I can do myself). Not going there!

I brought the Motorcraft semi-synthetic to the 1st dealership that did it for 18.95. By the time I get my next oil change I hope to have all the tools, filter and o-rings to do it all myself. So far I've had it changed at 1100 and 5500 miles and was planning on doing another one about 10000.
I don't mind spending a little more and going full synthetic if there's a decent chance it will make the car run longer or stronger since I plan to keep it for many years. I was thinking about the Amsoil since it's actually 5w-20. I know people also like the Mobile but I worry about if I ever resold the car if it would be frowned upon as if I wasn't using the right kind of oil for the car (even if it that bs). Maybe I'm worrying about things that would never happen I don't know. What do you all think and how much does that Mobil synthetic 0w-20 run?
 
(Disregard what I originaly typed in this space cause that was not totally acurate(headshake )
If you can find a place that sells it in 5 qt container then it would be alot cheaper cause most places here nly stock the 5W-30 10W-30 and 15W-30 in the 5qt containers...
 
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OK so as I posted before I am taking the car in for a 5K oil change tomorrow, just called the dealer and they said they use Mobil 1 non-synthetic. I do not want to go fully synthetic as Mobil 1 0w20 is like $6/quart. The guy in the service department said I could bring my own oil and they wont charge me for the oil so it will cost less. I just want to make sure the factory fill is Motorcraft 5w20 semi-syn, and I will go buy that today so they can use that instead of the Mobil 1. Does anybody know how much $ the Motorcraft is, also I get 5 qts right?
 
3junky said:
OK so as I posted before I am taking the car in for a 5K oil change tomorrow, just called the dealer and they said they use Mobil 1 non-synthetic. I do not want to go fully synthetic as Mobil 1 0w20 is like $6/quart. The guy in the service department said I could bring my own oil and they wont charge me for the oil so it will cost less. I just want to make sure the factory fill is Motorcraft 5w20 semi-syn, and I will go buy that today so they can use that instead of the Mobil 1. Does anybody know how much $ the Motorcraft is, also I get 5 qts right?
Click to expand...

I heard it's about 1.40 at Wal-Mart. I picked up mine at an AutoZone on the way to the dealer I took mine to and it was about $2 bucks.

Question for everyone. Price not a factor what kind of oil would you use for your Mazda3 (or Mazda6i for that matter).
 
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