High temps from cp-e FMIC

Good morning all. I recently converted from a 3.25" ETS TMIC to a cp-e FMIC trying to alleviate most of the heat soak issues. Install went great, and it looks fantastic, but I am seeing HIGHER inlet air temps (IAT) and higher boosted air temps (BAT) than with the ETS. Not cool [no pun intented]. To further anger me, I am also seeing my engine coolant temps start creeping when i am idling, but atleast that is explainable.

Now for some data: Typically, with the ETS, I would see BAT's about 15 degrees higher than ambient when moving at highway speeds for a good amount of time. My IAT's would be about 10 degrees higher than ambient. Pretty good I think, but at traffic lights, both temps would increase to (worst I have seen it about 30-40 degrees above ambient).

With the cp-e, I am seeing BAT's about 25 degrees HIGHER tan ambient when I am moving at highway speeds for a good amount of time (more than 5 minutes at a steady speed). When sitting at a traffic light, the BAT's will increase so bad that they are alarming on my dashhawk at 175 degrees. This never happened with the ETS and I had that on the car for over a year.

I am going to try some ducting changes, maybe some radiant heat insulation on the pipes, and worst case scenerio, I may drill out my lower grille.

My question is has anyone else seen this? Can some people chime in and tell me their typical temperatures?

Thought Front mount would see lower temps.. I can see the coolant temp rising because of its placement but why would the air temps be higher?

Maybe somebody on here knows

Coolant temps are explainable - You have to remove the lower ducting that "scoops" air into the radiator for this FMIC, plus, the radiator is no longer seeing ambient air, but rather air that has already been warmed by the intercooler.

I am attributing the rise in air temps to the placement of the intercooler piping. The hot pipe comes directly over the motor, subjecting it to convection of the high engine temps. The cold pipe is placed directly behind the radiator, and as such is being warmed by the air that is travelling through the radiator. There possibly is also radiant heat issues to worry about.

I am thinking about putting the ETS back on, and then building a liquid-to-air intercooler over the winter

Igve2shtz said:

I am attributing the rise in air temps to the placement of the intercooler piping. The hot pipe comes directly over the motor, subjecting it to convection of the high engine temps. The cold pipe is placed directly behind the radiator, and as such is being warmed by the air that is travelling through the radiator. There possibly is also radiant heat issues to worry about.

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Doesn't the stock TMIC sit over top the engine anyway? If it does, then I don't see how a pipe over top would see more heat than the TMIC. The cold pipe behind the radiator might be a problem source for you, but not because of Radiation. I would not go chasing the Radiant heat transfer.

Just out of curiosity what are you using to record the temperatures? If possible I would try to throw a couple of thermocouples in and see if you are getting consistent numbers with whatever you are reading.

You also said that coolant temps are rising at Idle, this one is a bit more confusing to me...When idle you have no compressed air moving through the IC. The IC might still be hot, but because you have no compressed air running through it, any airflow through that would help cool the IC itself. Airflow through the radiator would occur at idle as long as the fan is working.

Just thinking about this without any other background info makes it kinda hard to suggest what to do to fix it. Can you give more details?

I am measuring with a Dashhawk. I would love to thermocouple the hell out of this thing but I really don't feel like drilling into the pipes.

I was just thinking that maybe something got crushed/wacked/smacked/bent/twisted/tweeked or otherwised damaged during the install and you might be getting false readings somewhere.