What have you done to your MSP today?

Thanks man I appreciate it, I just picked them up today. They are 05-07 STi BBS rims, those years had 5x114 pattern most other subis are 5x100. They are 17x8 +53 19lbs and they are forged, and the center hub has already been bored out for a Mazda. Put my 8mm spacers on the rear to clear the strut, the front didn't need a spacer.
 
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1574 has a miss that usually becomes a full on stumble when under load, today I again swapped both coil packs, boots, wires, and pulled the plugs, cleaned them and verified the gap was .028 even though I just installed and gapped them (NGK ZFR6F) a few days ago. Pulled the maf and cleaned it out thoroughly and started the car and it didn't change it at all, still stumbles just as bad. May try to load a different tune on the FTC and change the settings, not sure what else could be causing it to run so bad.


Also ordered a set of 4 8mm spacers, going to put a pair on the front of 1345 so I will have 8mm spacers all around with the BBSs on that car and put a pair on the front of 1574 with the racingharts. I have a set of extended lug studs so I may put them on the front with some 10 or 15mm spacers and move the 8s to the rear.
 
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hornsfan10609 said:
1574 has a miss that usually becomes a full on stumble when under load, today I again swapped both coil packs, boots, wires, and pulled the plugs, cleaned them and verified the gap was .028 even though I just installed and gapped them (NGK ZFR6F) a few days ago. Pulled the maf and cleaned it out thoroughly and started the car and it didn't change it at all, still stumbles just as bad. May try to load a different tune on the FTC and change the settings, not sure what else could be causing it to run so bad


Also ordered a set of 4 8mm spacers, going to put a pair on the front of 1345 so I will have 8mm spacers all around with the BBSs on that car and put a pair on the front of 1574 with the racingharts. I have a set of extended lug studs so I may put them on the front with some 10 or 15mm spacers and move the 8s to the rear.
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Have you changed your fuel filter?
 
No it's original, haven't changed them in either car. Such a pain in the ass to replace though and they are large enough they don't 'clog' too often but it is possible. Car ran fine before and has fuel pressure, all cylinders were wet with fuel when I pulled the plugs today.

Spent a while switching the FTC to 'gauge pressure' and adjusting the fuel map to correspond. Car still misses.
 
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hornsfan10609 said:
No it's original, haven't changed them in either car. Such a pain in the ass to replace though and they are large enough they don't 'clog' too often but it is possible. Car ran fine before and has fuel pressure, all cylinders were wet with fuel when I pulled the plugs today.

Spent a while switching the FTC to 'gauge pressure' and adjusting the fuel map to correspond. Car still misses.
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I don't know the exact fuel pressure that the car has to have at idle or under load but when you say it has fuel pressure that could mean it has some but not the normal amount but I wouldn't know what the normal amount is. So you might want to check on that because if it is not at the normal pressure at idle or under load then it could be a clogged fuel filter especially if you haven't changed it and the car is nearing 100000 miles or so. Also clogged injectors, etc. Are there any vacuum leaks? I also heard a leaky egr valve can cause a misfire correct me
If I am wrong here please. My 2 cents.
 
paniaguae640 said:
I don't know the exact fuel pressure that the car has to have at idle or under load but when you say it has fuel pressure that could mean it has some but not the normal amount but I wouldn't know what the normal amount is. So you might want to check on that because if it is not at the normal pressure at idle or under load then it could be a clogged fuel filter especially if you haven't changed it and the car is nearing 100000 miles or so. Also clogged injectors, etc. Are there any vacuum leaks? I also heard a leaky egr valve can cause a misfire correct me
If I am wrong here please. My 2 cents.
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It clears up after the stumble in the higher RPMs, I would think a fuel issue would continually stumble throughout the rev range but it's possible. I don't think it's a fuel issue the car fan fine a couple days ago, no vac leaks that I can tell. EGR has been cleaned and is capped/deleted.
 
Swapped the MAF sensors in the MSPs today to try to figure out what is up with 1574 and 1345 ran like s*** so the MAF from 1574 must be bad. Tried cleaning the MAF and it didn't run normally until I swapped the original MAF back into it, going to the JY tomorrow to get another one and probably some new coils as well. Hopefully this will fix the stumble and misfire issue and it isn't FTC related which is my concern at this point.
 
Went WOT today coming home from the gym and I gotta say, damn that felt good. Had a beamer to the side of me that was speedin and I blew past him. I really think that I'm at least 185hp to the wheels. This is by far the funnest car I've ever driven. Anyway, I've been thinking, (I have crazy ideas) of a way to modernize the msp. Give it a more aerodynamical look, more stylish. Hmmm...
 
Changed the oil on my MSP on monday using Royal Purple 5w30. Hit 146k on that day as well. Car still runs strong and smooth.
 
I made a small but important step today. My car has an oil pan on it for the first time in 3+ months. Now I can do the final install on the manifold, turbo, and downpipe. Once that assembly is bolted in place I can do the final install of my honda radiator and sidemount :) All the fab work and test fitting has been done over and over so it should all go really fast. Then I need to weld up the exhaust, add fluids, and install some electronics and she'll be on the road. I need 8-10 uninterrupted hours of work and I'll be able to test drive it.
 
Hey guys, I'm replacing my transmission fluid tomorrow. I live in Florida and my car has 133k miles on it. What's the best transmission fluid to use?
 
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Sweet man! I know the feeling of getting your car ready to be able to drive! I had my 00 RS down for 4 months because the front diff decided to make an awful noise. Well that's when I picked up my MSP! Good luck man! It'll be sweet when you get it back on the road!
 
00RS03MSP said:
Dude to be honest I'd go to the dealer and get the trans oil from them.
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Thanks man. Reason I'm asking is because my 2nd gear has started to grind. I talked to a local transmission shop and they said they think the synchronizer might be going bad. So I turned to a different option. Probably going to buy a used transmission and replace mine.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
Swapped the MAF sensors in the MSPs today to try to figure out what is up with 1574 and 1345 ran like s*** so the MAF from 1574 must be bad. Tried cleaning the MAF and it didn't run normally until I swapped the original MAF back into it, going to the JY tomorrow to get another one and probably some new coils as well. Hopefully this will fix the stumble and misfire issue and it isn't FTC related which is my concern at this point.
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Just a heads up, after I did a long stent hwy driving and after the ecu couldn't get the fuel right making it stumble like crazy.
 
I have reset the ECU a few times, i'm starting to wonder if it's the FTC which would make it more difficult to diagnose.
 
IllaNoizeTV said:
Thanks man. Reason I'm asking is because my 2nd gear has started to grind. I talked to a local transmission shop and they said they think the synchronizer might be going bad. So I turned to a different option. Probably going to buy a used transmission and replace mine.
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Synchros are going to fail, it's normal and they must be replaced. Changing the fluid may cause them to fail sooner, fluid brand doesn't matter too much with gear oil. Either synthetic, conventional or a blend of the two, you can pay extra for royal purple or redline like some people do but I have used cheap gear oil and never noticed the difference.
 
I didn't really like the royal purple... the trans looka great after a few years of it was noisy and didn't feel as nice as conventional... I put pennzoil conventional 75/90 into the p5 and it feels like a new transmission for the most part... was also... $25? Vs almost $70 for the purple stuff..
I question all the friction aditives as well as our trans is all journal bearings....with no oil pump...maybe why my lsd plates failed?
 
Thanks guys. I just changed the fluid with a friend. The gears actually feel smoother and easier to get into. I'm gonna hold off on replacing the synchros for now until my gears start popping out of place.
 
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