What have you done to your MSP today?

So a lot of thinks have happened the last couple of days. Finally settled with insurance for the mp3. Got $3600 and my car back so that's getting parted out and the msp gonna get some parts she's missing. Also went to a car auction. Didn't think of get a car as most of the crap cars in my opinion were going for mad prices. Saw a 96 fav4 with 265k on if go for 4k :s . Then I saw a mazda 3 with a broken window and ended up getting it for 1000 after auction fees. Not sure what else it needs but atleast it will pass emissions no problem.

Good news for the msp as now that I have a new daily I can take my time on the msp and fix it how I want so that it will last
 
It took a couple hours but I was able to drop the 25k mile motor in MSP 1574 yesterday and install a few things like the washer bottle and new starter. Passenger axle, turbo, IM, radiator, alternator and front bumper still need to be installed and I have to re-do the intercooler piping bc it has very poor fitment the way the PO ran the ebay piping kit. And I still need to buy a new passenger motor mount and rear swaybar bushing bracket (Unless someone on here has one???) to get it ready to DD.
 
Hornsfan are we not able to drop the engine in with the intake manifold already bolted in?
 
frick...

msp 133km

110 110 180 180

p5 311km

195 195 197 203

guess ill be drivint he p5 for longer than i thought.
 
Gabi said:
Hornsfan are we not able to drop the engine in with the intake manifold already bolted in?
Click to expand...

You may be able to but I did not want to remove the hood and having the IM in place would make installing one of the bolts connecting the engine and trans a b**** to get to, as well as making installing the starter and alternator more difficult. Plus I left the trans in the car so I had to unbolt the front and driver side mounts to get enough room to drop the motor in. Water pump pulley, timing covers and the bracket on the pass side were all on the motor and it squeezed in, just had to loosen the PS and AC lines to move them back a little and had to remove the crank pulley but it all dropped in eventually.
 
Finally resolved an overheating issue I have been trying to figure out. Turned out to be the Mishimoto cap on the radiator, it would hold too much pressure and start to leak, then the coolant would get low and the car would run hot. It worked fine the past year or so, then failed. Apparently Mishimoto caps are not the best, many others online have posted about them leaking. Topped the system off and burped it with a new corksport cap and it runs great. Although the (6 month old) battery did die on me randomly today, but worked fine after a jump(?).

And today on MSP 1574 I cut a hole to route the hot pipe next to the radiator instead of through the hole where the washer bottle was (and now is), mocked up the cold pipe to see what couplers/pipes I will need, installed the alternator, water lines and shifter rods. Ordered a passenger motor mount, 12" slim fan and 2" T-bolt clamp as well. This thing is starting to come together, once I have the turbo mani back from being repaired I can see if all this trouble and money was worth it.

I should make a build thread but i'm too busy to keep up with it and too lazy to upload all my pics, lol
 
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Gabi said:
Hornsfan are we not able to drop the engine in with the intake manifold already bolted in?
Click to expand...

Yes, you absolutely can. I've had the intake installed every time I've R&R/I'd the engine. As well as having all accessories already hung on it. The only one I've not had on EVERY time is the power steering pump just because it's easier to unbolt and lay off to the side and hold back with bungie cords. Otherwise it''ll drop right in with enough wiggling around. I've also done it with the transmission installed as well as the transmission staying in the car. I prefer an assembled unit to be dropped it. It's easy with a load leveler.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
You may be able to but I did not want to remove the hood and having the IM in place would make installing one of the bolts connecting the engine and trans a b**** to get to, as well as making installing the starter and alternator more difficult. Plus I left the trans in the car so I had to unbolt the front and driver side mounts to get enough room to drop the motor in. Water pump pulley, timing covers and the bracket on the pass side were all on the motor and it squeezed in, just had to loosen the PS and AC lines to move them back a little and had to remove the crank pulley but it all dropped in eventually.
Click to expand...

Preferio said:
Yes, you absolutely can. I've had the intake installed every time I've R&R/I'd the engine. As well as having all accessories already hung on it. The only one I've not had on EVERY time is the power steering pump just because it's easier to unbolt and lay off to the side and hold back with bungie cords. Otherwise it''ll drop right in with enough wiggling around. I've also done it with the transmission installed as well as the transmission staying in the car. I prefer an assembled unit to be dropped it. It's easy with a load leveler.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the clarification guys. Preferio my plan is to do what you just described. Wish one of you was local to me when the time came. Im currently collecting all the stuff I need to turn my forged shortblock into a complete long block.
 
Well, I've done nothing except start and idle it for 30-45 minutes a day for the past week because I honestly don't trust the coolant I installed last spring. Though, it's given me no indication that it had a substandard freeze point. We had temps getting down to -16 one night, so I thought it a good idea. Outside of that, I converted my foyer closet into a work closet- My roll cart fits perfect in the closet, and due to my steps, I can't easily take it in and out the front door to the driveway, so it's the closest I could get and still have it hidden. Everything in there is car or tool related now. I was told that everything else is going downstairs in my basement- turbos, manifolds, engines, transmissions, bumpers, hoods, wings, etc. Not that that stuff would fit anyway.
 
got my msp back together for a good run tonight and burnt a lot of stuff out of it. man i miss it heh.

also picked up some mazda wheels for the p5 but have no idea what they are. they kinda look like mazda 3 wheels and have mazda stamps on the inside but they dont really look like any mazda wheels i found on google. almost like vw wheels.
prob gonna paint them. just not sure if it will be black or bronze for the p5. bronze prob a little bad for yellow msp though.

 
Preferio said:
Yes, you absolutely can. I've had the intake installed every time I've R&R/I'd the engine. As well as having all accessories already hung on it. The only one I've not had on EVERY time is the power steering pump just because it's easier to unbolt and lay off to the side and hold back with bungie cords. Otherwise it''ll drop right in with enough wiggling around. I've also done it with the transmission installed as well as the transmission staying in the car. I prefer an assembled unit to be dropped it. It's easy with a load leveler.
Click to expand...

Did you delete the A/C?

Gabi said:
Thanks for the clarification guys. Preferio my plan is to do what you just described. Wish one of you was local to me when the time came. Im currently collecting all the stuff I need to turn my forged shortblock into a complete long block.
Click to expand...

It's not as hard as it seems, you will be fine

Valk said:
got my msp back together for a good run tonight and burnt a lot of stuff out of it. man i miss it heh.

also picked up some mazda wheels for the p5 but have no idea what they are. they kinda look like mazda 3 wheels and have mazda stamps on the inside but they dont really look like any mazda wheels i found on google. almost like vw wheels.
prob gonna paint them. just not sure if it will be black or bronze for the p5. bronze prob a little bad for yellow msp though.
Click to expand...

That is strange, I thought I had seen every mazda wheel but I don't recognize those. Must've been a Canada-only wheel or something.
 
So I thought I had the overheating issue fixed but it got hot again yesterday and the coolant was low. I replaced the HG only a couple months ago, new water pump only a couple weeks ago, new coolant, newer silicone rad hoses. Can't find any leaks even when it's running, mishimoto rad that is not visibly leaking, new cap (tried three different caps), fans are working fine and kick on normally. Burped the system multiple times and it works fine for a while then it starts to get hot. Gauge never reaches all the way hot just about 3/4 then drops to normal, doesn't get hot when sitting still only after boosting and putting the engine under load. The system must be loosing coolant somehow but the car is running great and the coolant isn't bubbling like the HG is bad. My last option is to replace the thermostat, unless somehow the turbo is causing the coolant to become excessively hot? I'm so tired of messing with what should have been a simple fix.
 
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I couldn't find them on google. Closest thing was vw jetta wheels but these have mazda stamps heh. They look a helluva lot better than mazda 3 16s though so happy. Don't really suit the msp but should look great on the p5 in a dark color. Msp gonna get enkei rsf5 but prob next year.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
So I thought I had the overheating issue fixed but it got hot again yesterday and the coolant was low. I replaced the HG only a couple months ago, new water pump only a couple weeks ago, new coolant, newer silicone rad hoses. Can't find any leaks even when it's running, mishimoto rad that is not visibly leaking, new cap (tried three different caps), fans are working fine and kick on normally. Burped the system multiple times and it works fine for a while then it starts to get hot. Gauge never reaches all the way hot just about 3/4 then drops to normal, doesn't get hot when sitting still only after boosting and putting the engine under load. The system must be loosing coolant somehow but the car is running great and the coolant isn't bubbling like the HG is bad. My last option is to replace the thermostat, unless somehow the turbo is causing the coolant to become excessively hot? I'm so tired of messing with what should have been a simple fix.
Click to expand...

Can you smell coolant when you stop? I have a very small leak in my cooling system thats been eluding me for quite sometime. After reading about the radiator cap Im starting to think thats where my issue lies. My car doesnt overheat at all though.
 
2008-2010 mazda 5 oem rims. though after sticking them on the black p5, i almost dont want to paint them.. i was thinking black or bronze, or gunmetal, something neutral.. but.. they just look good in silver.

cooling issues can be a real headache. i chased this on my wifes es and replaced almost everything in the coolant system. first was water pump cause it blew up, obvious.. but then i changed a thermostat, then a rad. then the rad hoses ect. from googleing around it was suggested to check the heater hoses for leaks or crunchiness. its possible one of them, being so small is allowing air in, or leaking water out which could create a cavitation in the coolant system. fortunately, i havent dealt with it on the msp yet.
its possible your turbo has really bad bearings and gets really hot, but pretty unlikely bearings that worn out would allow it to spool properly.
 
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