What have you done to your MS3 today?

I have the shifter bushings, cpe rmm, and xt-m5-qs but haven't run without a counterweight yet. Does this make a huge difference? Is there any disadvantage?

I got a lightened shifter weight from PG and it makes the shifting feel more mechanical which I like. For 20$ I think its worth it. Also keeps the car from popping out of second gear under heavy breaking for those of us that auto-x.
 
If you even a little bit skilled with your hands it's fun to make your own shifter weight. If you are interested I can PM you a spec'd print on how to make your own.
 
Also installed Powergrid adjustable endlinks. GREAT PRODUCT. They are a bit different than most aftermarket endlinks in that they come with sealed ball joints. I'm dropped 1.6" in front. And with stock endlinks, I was getting a lot of clunk and binding at full lock. That's all gone now. Highly recommended.

+1 on these endlinks. I installed them ~1 month ago and the removed pre-load on the FSB makes a difference in steering reaction. I run with the BC coil-overs around 3/4" drop from stock, so the stock end-links were loading the FSB up a good bit at static height.

Also ordered the SU side (driver + passenger) engine mounts today. Hope these will complement the TRZ rear engine mount in helping to reduce wheel hop during AutoX.
 
I got a lightened shifter weight from PG and it makes the shifting feel more mechanical which I like. For 20$ I think its worth it. Also keeps the car from popping out of second gear under heavy breaking for those of us that auto-x.

I also switched out the stock shifter weight for the lighter PG weight and have not had any problems since with the shifter popping out of 2nd. Before I would have this problem around once every 3 events, now it is no more. Nice to finally focus on the driving instead of worrying about staying in the right gear.
 
I did a 3rd & 4th gear pulls. In 3rd gear was able to go from 40 to 80mph in 6 seconds and in 4th gear 40 to 100mph in 10 seconds.
 
Do you have an AP?

I have a new 75 duro waiting to go on (my original 60 duro bushing failed) and my plan is just to up the idle values with ATR...

The idle speed @ 750 seems OK. 900 is really strong though. Overall more vibes than what I was expecting. I'm going to check (again) all torque specs and ensure the mount wasn't flipped compared to what was on the instructions. I've heard an inverted mount can pinch the rubber bushing and cause excessive vibes. More to come.


+1 on these endlinks. I installed them ~1 month ago and the removed pre-load on the FSB makes a difference in steering reaction. I run with the BC coil-overs around 3/4" drop from stock, so the stock end-links were loading the FSB up a good bit at static height.

I was very skeptical at first but I'm a believer now. For some reason these cars are extremely sensitive to the position of the sway bar. Lowering the car appears to roll the bar up and back, causing some added friction against the sway bar bushings. I believe that's what was causing some of the numbness in steering feedback. I still need to adjust them a bit more before doing a full writeup.
 
The idle speed @ 750 seems OK. 900 is really strong though. Overall more vibes than what I was expecting. I'm going to check (again) all torque specs and ensure the mount wasn't flipped compared to what was on the instructions. I've heard an inverted mount can pinch the rubber bushing and cause excessive vibes. More to come.

The orientation really shouldn't matter if your mount is one of the newer ones, since they're a perfectly symmetrical part (as far as I can tell, anyway)...

It was the older "first-run" mounts that had the offset design. I asked someone from C-PE in a thread on MSF once about why they changed the design, but never got an answer (my guess is that it saves them money - FWIW, I think the offset design made more sense, as it appears to me that there would be less "binding" than with the "straight" design when installed properly)...

At any rate, I had a 60 durometer mount that failed, and they talked me into replacing it with a 75 (even though I didn't want any more vibration than the 60 had given me). My plan was just to raise the "AC on" idle in ATR to compensate if I needed to, as I didn't have any issue at all @ 750 with my 60 durometer (when the AC wasn't on, that is).
 
I was very skeptical at first but I'm a believer now. For some reason these cars are extremely sensitive to the position of the sway bar. Lowering the car appears to roll the bar up and back, causing some added friction against the sway bar bushings. I believe that's what was causing some of the numbness in steering feedback. I still need to adjust them a bit more before doing a full writeup.

To be specific, changing the terminal swaybar mounting positions relative to the front subframe (effectively changing the angle of the plane that the swaybar ends and bushings sit in at static height) really messes with the dynamics of the swaybar.

It makes sense if you think about the way that the swaybar ends follow a radius as they move up and down. The further that radius gets from being parallel to the ground at static ride height, the more pronounced the effect.

:)
 
Thanks for the clarification.

I was on the fence for a while regarding these. Mainly because of potential clearance issues at full droop. Turned out not to be a problem. However, clearance is very tight on the inner firewall on the passenger side @ static height. People running an aftermarket swaybar could run into issues depending on the position of the endlink mount.

And regarding the RMM, I have the older design.
 
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Cruised a little bit and had a guy in a beet up F150 ask me how many CC's my car had. I said 280hp and peeled off. Dumbass!!
 
He was being sarcastic, and I didn't take a liking to it. Plus I don't know how many "CC's" my inline 4 turbo car has...

facepalm.gif
 
or could have asked him in return "how many gallons per mile do you get" or something to
that effect
 
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