What have you done to your Mazda5 today?

I'm using the standard centric rotors.

I had the HPS's on my old supercharged IS300 and they were a nice street pad. I don't think I'll be going to another pad right now, the ones in there now are terrific. When it comes time to replace them or I magically get more power, I'll look into a more aggressive street pad.
 
Oil change

Changed front struts, mounts, swaybar endlinks. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123852665-Suspension-choices-going-stout-not-comfy&p=6440021&viewfull=1#post6440021

Found this K&N intake on Ebay new for 1/3 the original price & dropped it in.
Removing the original airbox and addons, JESUS CHRIST, what is that plastic tumor behind the driver-side headlight, this pre-air box??? Anyway, it is gone now.
Comes with a n emissions-compliance plaque, so that is nice. Seattle area has stricter rules, might come in handy.

P3050031_resize.JPG
 
Installed the rear Megan Racing lowering springs. Contemplating on doing the fronts myself or taking it to a shop, I can't find a decent write-up/how-to.
 
Installed the rear Megan Racing lowering springs. Contemplating on doing the fronts myself or taking it to a shop, I can't find a decent write-up/how-to.

In contrast to the rear, you will need a spring compressor** in the front, or cart the removed assemblies to a shop.
I also found an impact wrench to be super helpful for the initial loosening of the nut on top of the strut before continuing with allen key and wrench.
The rest is standard tools.

**
I prefer this style. Double up the washers at the nut to help with friction.
https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

Same thing:
 
Primergy, that would be the famous "intake tuba". AFAIK its only purpose is as an intake resonator, though when it gets heat soaked in summer it also raises your intake air temps by about ten degrees. I removed mine and replaced it with a piece of flexible aluminum duct " the ghetto CAI" if you will. I have had them on both my 5s and they work, and sound great
 
this is something ill definatly be doin in the coming weeks, I was looking at that intake setup yesterday shaking my head on how I'm going to remove it all!
 
Hello!
I've been lurking since I decided to buy a used 2010 Mazda 5.
Well, 2 weeks ago, I finally got it.
Since then, I've tinted the windows, put new wheels/tires, window visors, and put a manual shifter bezel (it's really an automatic...only did it to prevent theft as modern day thieves can't seem to drive stick ;) )

Here's what it looks like so far.... lowering will happen later this week.




-goki
 
Looking good!^^ The front bumper has to come off to get rid of the "intake tuba" its held in by three bolts one of which is kind of hard to see. I'm going to replace my cheapo duct with either PVC or something more durable this coming weekend as it keeps tearing loose of the bottom of the airbox. I also plan on replacing my spark-plugs as the current set now has 110k on them and the gas mileage is starting to suffer...
 
Looking good!^^ The front bumper has to come off to get rid of the "intake tuba" its held in by three bolts one of which is kind of hard to see. I'm going to replace my cheapo duct with either PVC or something more durable this coming weekend as it keeps tearing loose of the bottom of the airbox. I also plan on replacing my spark-plugs as the current set now has 110k on them and the gas mileage is starting to suffer...

The front bumper can stay if you remove the front part of the inner fender well, maybe the plastic skid plate also has to come off (mine was already jacked up and apart for other stuff).
The three screw for the "tuba" are a pita to locate but not impossible if you can look in the area from below. The pictured K&N manual left it on as well.
Step 19-22: http://www.knfilters.com/instructions/69-6010_inst.pdf

I agree with the improved sound, has a nice *GRRRR* now.
 
Hello!
.... and put a manual shifter bezel (it's really an automatic...only did it to prevent theft as modern day thieves can't seem to drive stick )
-goki

Love the looks of that!
+1 on the thief deterrent. Thieves stole neighbors Subaru Legacy a few years back, mine, same model with a 5spd was left untouched and was not even locked.
 
The front bumper can stay if you remove the front part of the inner fender well, maybe the plastic skid plate also has to come off (mine was already jacked up and apart for other stuff).
The three screw for the "tuba" are a pita to locate but not impossible if you can look in the area from below. The pictured K&N manual left it on as well.
Step 19-22: http://www.knfilters.com/instructions/69-6010_inst.pdf

I agree with the improved sound, has a nice *GRRRR* now.


Aside from the improved GRRRR sound...does it affect performance at all?
 
Love the looks of that!
+1 on the thief deterrent. Thieves stole neighbors Subaru Legacy a few years back, mine, same model with a 5spd was left untouched and was not even locked.

thanks!
best theft deterrent is to don't leave anything of value visible....and a stick shift ;)

My other cars are manual transmissions and wish this one was as well, but the wife needs to drive it from time to time...so....oh well (kiss)
 
Aside from the improved GRRRR sound...does it affect performance at all?
Mine revs a little more freely on the top end, I can bounce off the limiter at 118MPH where before that wasn't possible. I would say its butt-dyno approved if nothing else LOL
 
Had a weird vibe from the brakes today and saw a remnant if pad material on the rotor, so everything came out and the rotor faces were sanded smooth. Also tried the stock wheels without the spacer and they clear the mazdaspeed3 calipers, but it's REALLY close to that retainer clip (the wheel spins freely, so no contact), so the spacers stayed in.
 
Mine revs a little more freely on the top end, I can bounce off the limiter at 118MPH where before that wasn't possible. I would say its butt-dyno approved if nothing else LOL

There is this connection between the GRRRR sound and your foot on the gas pedal. Actual performance increase is hard to tell.
Yea, K&N delivers a few Dyno curves with guaranteed claims...
I have this hill on my commute and it seems to pull easier in 4th gear at a specific speed than it did before, I feel less urge to go into 3rd.

As mentioned, I bought it because it was (relatively) cheap on Ebay. I'm sure some Home Depot PVC and a cone, or the tuba-box delete will get you there as well.
 
Finished installing the lowering springs today (thanks Primergy for the tips and video reference).
I should be getting new wheels and tires on Thursday/Friday.
 
Last edited:
There is this connection between the GRRRR sound and your foot on the gas pedal. Actual performance increase is hard to tell.
Yea, K&N delivers a few Dyno curves with guaranteed claims...
I have this hill on my commute and it seems to pull easier in 4th gear at a specific speed than it did before, I feel less urge to go into 3rd.

As mentioned, I bought it because it was (relatively) cheap on Ebay. I'm sure some Home Depot PVC and a cone, or the tuba-box delete will get you there as well.

No check engine lights or smog issues (im in NAZI-ville CA) deleting the tuba?

Reason I ask is because I normally don't modify my daily drivers (usually newer cars) too much, so I don't know much...
(my fun cars are older and pre-smog)
 
Mine revs a little more freely on the top end, I can bounce off the limiter at 118MPH where before that wasn't possible. I would say its butt-dyno approved if nothing else LOL

Wow118mph nice, Lol butt Dino approved is good for me, plus shave a few lbs , it looks like it weights 10lbs+!?
 
Back