You don't need to remove that bolt.
This is the transmission mount that I removed from my parts car.
View attachment 298168
I kinda forget what I did to get it out, but that hydraulic line needs to be disconnected from the bracket.
I don't know what all is included with your new mount, but if it looks like my old mount, you don't need to remove that bolt at all.
You should just be able to install the new mount, put the line in it and install the old clip, like it was before. See my badly sketched illustration on a photo of the new mount below.The issue is, I have a complete new mount, when I remove this mount what do I do with this stamped bracket?
PCB - I was interpreting headofjar's problem as how to get the hydraulic line off, but I see what you're saying about the through-bolt. Unfortunately, if his mount is anything like mine, he definitely will need to remove that bolt. I happen to have a brand new mount right here on my desk, and it does not include the side that mounts to the engine.
Sorry, not trying to contradict you. Just want to throw out an alternative opinion
You should just be able to install the new mount, put the line in it and install the old clip, like it was before. See my badly sketched illustration on a photo of the new mount below.
View attachment 298183
The new mount did not include the piece that attaches to the transmission. So I removed the bolt to get the central part of the old mount off. I may have the wrong mount as it is missing a few of these other projections as well. I specified a manual mount but I think eBay has struck again.You don't need to remove that bolt.
This is the transmission mount that I removed from my parts car.
View attachment 298168
I kinda forget what I did to get it out, but that hydraulic line needs to be disconnected from the bracket.
I don't know what all is included with your new mount, but if it looks like my old mount, you don't need to remove that bolt at all.
Is this photo of the new mount a automatic or manual mount,?PCB - I was interpreting headofjar's problem as how to get the hydraulic line off, but I see what you're saying about the through-bolt. Unfortunately, if his mount is anything like mine, he definitely will need to remove that bolt. I happen to have a brand new mount right here on my desk, and it does not include the side that mounts to the engine.
Sorry, not trying to contradict you. Just want to throw out an alternative opinion
You should just be able to install the new mount, put the line in it and install the old clip, like it was before. See my badly sketched illustration on a photo of the new mount below.
View attachment 298183
...I may have the wrong mount as it is missing a few of these other projections as well. I specified a manual mount but I think eBay has struck again.
Doh... I bought this mount hoping it would fix the rattle on the firewall that started after the rear mount was fitted. These cars don't like rear mounts.... Have reinstalled old mount as it was not torn and seems in good order. Thanks for your help. Cheers JaredYeah, I think you got the wrong mount...
These are pictures from RockAuto...
View attachment 298189View attachment 298190View attachment 298191View attachment 298192
It looks like you have the "A6464" instead of the "A6465"
Thanks for the advice. I have a reasonable relationship with my mechanic, so hopefully they can trace it down, the sound forecasts around and will be tricky to find! Rear mount was such a pain to do that I know they will not be wanting to revisit it!The rear mount is a HUGE PITA to replace...
The other three are easy in comparison.
Pick your replacement rear mount carefully.
Normally, the rear mount is replaced to go with a stiffer urethane mount for a sportier ride or because it is torn.
Some guys just replace the other three mounts and leave the rear mount, because it's such a chore.
Normally, guys find that the higher durometer urethane mounts make the whole car buzz and humm and their teeth start to rattle which gets tiresome quickly.
Your rattle on the firewall sounds different.
It sounds like a separate issue.
Maybe something is loose, or wasn't connected properly, or something wasn't tightened properly.
Perhaps the rattle has something to do with the work involved in replacing the rear mount, and not the mount itself?
Try to find the source of the rattle before replacing the rear mount again, in case that won't fix your problem, and you pay for another replacement.
PS...My car is full of rattles and humms, all over the car. I just turn up the stereo and ignore it. Lol
Thanks for that. Totally agreed with this advice. NotedBased on how difficult I hear it is to replace the rear mount, the best answer for many owners will be to buy a genuine Mazda part. Install a urethane mount that's too harsh, and it's a pain to replace it. Put in an el cheapo part that fails too soon, and it's a pain to replace it. Other options include a jury-rig repair of the mount in-place or just not bothering to fix it at all as pcb mentioned.
I got "lucky" in that my engine was toasted and it was sitting on the ground outside the engine bay. The mechanic told me my rear mount was busted and I got a new one from the Mazda dealer.
Totally, I have replaced front/ rear and r/h mounts with aftermarket. Kelpro I believe. After checking the L/h transmission mount and finding it to be ok I still had a vibration, it turned out I had some contact between the gearbox and the under engine support brace, this has now been rectified. Car is very smooth now and it may have been age/road contact related, I think it also quitened down my input Shaft bearing, so engine is correctly aligned now, this was done by installing a rubber mount bolted between the gearbox and support strut. But I agree, messing with mounts is a rabbit hole, but I persevered and now it's like a new car.I had an issue when i first replaced all my mounts. I went with dea mounts. I believe the rubber is a bit harder than oem and also my rear mount seemed to sag after a few months causing the rubber to sit on the bottom half of the metal circle. This caused alot of vibes in the cabin. I went with awr inserts in the sides a stiff insert up front and i filled my rear mount with 60a liquid urethane. Minimal vibes and i know ill probably never have to change them again. I do have an auto so i cant compare to using the clutch. Also when its in the 30s-40s here in cali it does have a bit more vibes until the engine bay warms up.
Try and look at the rear mount you have now and see if its sagging enough to rest on the bottom of the mount housing. Might be your issue ?
I noticed while re-installing my son's transmission and the support beam under it, the beam has a big hole for something (like maybe some kind of insulator) that wasn't there in my case and maybe not yours....After checking the L/h transmission mount and finding it to be ok I still had a vibration, it turned out I had some contact between the gearbox and the under engine support brace, this has now been rectified.
Car is very smooth now... this was done by installing a rubber mount bolted between the gearbox and support strut.