The Rear Engine Mount - The Current Bane of My Existence

[lostmybook]

OK remember I would consider myself a mechanical novice...

I have removed my intake manifold... drained the coolant, cut that stupid plastic holder for the wire harness, cut the bolt that goes into the firewall but I still can't get a good straight fit for the 17mm nuts for the mount. I realized I needed about 1cm more clearance to get a good fit for the mount bolts, so (as you see in the pic) I'm RE-sawing that bolt off (buy hand -___-)

But, the problem I see now after I get rid of this firewall bolt to get a good fit; If I attach long-enough extension on a breaker bar to get enough room to use all my strength to get that mount bolt off, this stupid thing gets in the way (I'm assuming brake hydraulic lines).

I'm a bit frustrated - seeing as it took me around 2.5 hours just to get the manifold off -and wishing I would have just spent money to get a mechanic to do this. Nevertheless, I started it and intend to finish it. What should I do? I've searched the forums and basically found one thread on it. It didn't really help much for me at least - In fact I think the thread ended up with the OP taking it to a mechanic. Any help would be much appreciated.

-----MINNIE SUB THREAD--------

P.S. - Part of this project was to finally swap in the ZE manifold, but I can't get the factory fuel lines to fit onto the fuel rail, where the pulsation damper was in the FS DE fuel rail. It seems that ZE fuel rail end is too fat for the factory fuel lines. Can anyone that has swapped the ZE manifold help me out as well?

 

[Fresco]

kinda looks like your stripping them trying to loosen those nuts and have you tried swapping the fuel rail from the de mani to the ze mani and see if that works

 

[lostmybook]

kinda looks like your stripping them trying to loosen those nuts and have you tried swapping the fuel rail from the de mani to the ze mani and see if that works

Yeah they are stripping... I just can't get the ratchet to sit on their good enough... I marinated all those bolts with pb blaster. I didn't work on it today, but tomow will try again.

As for the fuel rail, I tried doing that, but since the ZE manifold has the black resonator box, the fuel pressure regulators are in different positions for clearance purposes. So when I tried swapping the DE rail on the ZE manifold, the fuel pressure regulator won't mount properly because it hits the resonator box.

 

[Fresco]

Yeah they are stripping... I just can't get the ratchet to sit on their good enough... I marinated all those bolts with pb blaster. I didn't work on it today, but tomow will try again.

As for the fuel rail, I tried doing that, but since the ZE manifold has the black resonator box, the fuel pressure regulators are in different positions for clearance purposes. So when I tried swapping the DE rail on the ZE manifold, the fuel pressure regulator won't mount properly because it hits the resonator box.

can you swap out the regulators?......hopefully you get some insight on the mount when someone that already did it chimes in

 

[bikingpro5]

when i removed my rear mount i had to add a universal joint on the socket then the extension.. my bolts came out with no issues.

all of the how too I've seen recommend it as well.

 

[lostmybook]

Thanks for replying.

That's exactly what I[m using plus a 24' extension... I guess I'm not strong enough? It's hard to produce torque at this weird angle for me. I have a 1/2" breaker bar that's a little bit longer and more solid than the 3/8 breaker bar I'm using. I'm going to buy a 1/2" universal joint for it and try one more time. Other than that, I think I'm going to throw in the towel and turn it in to a mechanic with power tools (braindead

 

[Cleverfrog]

Thanks for replying.

That's exactly what I[m using plus a 24' extension... I guess I'm not strong enough? It's hard to produce torque at this weird angle for me. I have a 1/2" breaker bar that's a little bit longer and more solid than the 3/8 breaker bar I'm using. I'm going to buy a 1/2" universal joint for it and try one more time. Other than that, I think I'm going to throw in the towel and turn it in to a mechanic with power tools (braindead

I really dont know why you're having such a hard time with this mount. I didn't have a universal joint and mine was still extremely easy to swap.

edit: I only used a 3-4in extension and a short 12" breaker bar down in there. 1/2" ratchet. Just be a MAN with it and it should come right out.

 

[lostmybook]

So I got it out. Turns out that 3/8 breaker bar I was using was too flimsy (at least for my comfort). It was one of those adjustable length bars that bent under stress - that made me nervous. When I used a real breaker (1/2) I borrowed, I got them out fairly easy.

Now I'm at another "noob hurdle." When I mount the engine mount flush, the hole doesn't line up with the engine side. The engine side is about 0.5 inches too low when the mount is installed properly. I tried jacking up the car via oil pan, but the whole car moves up, not just the motor. Is there a way to safely move the motor up < 1 inch so I can get this mount in? Would I have to remove the side mount to allow for more play?

Fresco: Yes I can swap one regulator, which I was already planning on doing, but I cannot swap anything on the fuel, because the fuel pulsation is built onto the FE rail. I've been asking theMAN for help, he says I need to buy aftermarket fuel lines to make it work... bleh.

 

[Cleverfrog]

actually the engine "twists". I just pulled on the top of mine to line it up.

 

[lostmybook]

actually the engine "twists". I just pulled on the top of mine to line it up.

Makes sense, thanks frog. I just kept jacking the car up via oil pan until I saw the motor raise. Hope that wasn't the wrong way of doing. Finally got the mount in, thanks for everyone's input. Especially bikingpro's for re-emphasizing the u-joint. I thought about it but was too lazy to get one, but I guess your comment put me over the edge haha.

 

[Fresco]

hmmm what if you cut it before the ridge where the yellow dot is on that line and connect the cut off piece to the pulsation damper and then take a rubber fuel line and connect that to the piece with the ridge, and then tighten it down with the correct clamps, think of it as if you were making an extension....but before you do ask around and see if it would work or try it with your de fuel rail before you hack the ze fuel rail

 

[lostmybook]

Interesting idea! I think getting aftermarket fuel hoses sounds easier to me though... I don't have anything to cut it with.

Now I have another situation...

The car won't start!

Yep, put everything back together. Now it won't start. I don't even hear any noise from the fuel lines, or any clicks from the starter. The radio, headlights, etc are fine. I even had it jumped. All I hear that clicks when I turn the ignition is the click from a relay somewhere... help!! I still haven't put coolant in it, but it should still crank right?

 

[Cleverfrog]

Probably forgot to plug something in

 

[lostmybook]

Figured that much But unless I forgot to plug in something that deals with the starter, I really think it would still at least crank... I mean, the stuff I unplugged was VTCS, VICS, cam sensor, knock sensor (I think), fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pulsation damper, idle valve, EGR valve and pipe, o2 sensor, MAF sensor... I just can't imagine any of those having to do with the starter... then again I'm not a mechanic.

 

[lostmybook]

OK finally got everything done the car is running and I love having a working rear motor mount. This following tip is for any noobs out there like me or anyone who's never taken the intake manifold off before:

The starter is right below, almost touching, the intake manifold. Furthermore, at least in my car it can be disconnected too easily, just a nudge will do. Maybe my car is missing a necessary bracket... but beware! Don't be a dingus like me and put the car back together with the starter carelessly disconnected.