RPM drops, occasional DSC light on (2014 Mazda5)

2014 Mazda 5 AT, 88K miles, mostly short city drives all the time.

Recently, I noticed that the RPM is dropping to around 750 almost always when the gas pedal is not pressed.
The issue is not happening when I am driving with cruise control engaged, - the car goes normally.
But as soon as I drive without cruise control and release the pedal, the RPM goes down - even when I'm rolling downhill and not pressing the gas, which I find weird.
Usually, when I take off, AT switches to the second gear and after that, I release the gas pedal and keep rolling - the car goes on. Now, however, it seems to drop RPM and after that, it's switching back to 1st (it seems).

Feels like a drag, like brakes are stuck - however, the brakes are not overheating, car is going straight and not pulling to either side, no vibration when braking, no burning smell coming from the brakes. The rear brakes are almost worn out, though. Brake fluid is less than 1 year old, and I'm am almost sure there is no issue with brake lines, since the fluid level is normal.

The air filter is fresh new clean, MAF sensor is clean - I just checked and cleaned it, just in case.

I have an OBD2 sensor constantly hooked up to my cheap Chinese Android stereo, which makes it possible to monitor various parameters while driving.
The only thing I can see that is slightly off is the Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) is 7.5%, which suggests that the engine is running lean, which can indicate a possible vacuum leak. However, it's still within the normal range, so, I am not sure about this being the reason.

I recently changed the engine oil (DIY 1st time), however, I don't see any leaks and even if the oil filter is completely clogged, this would result in such condition, I think. The oil level is just fine, I don't smell anything burning.

Also, used the snake oil fuel cleaner liquid (techron) recently and went for a long highway trip just fine.

Hours of research suggest that the torque converter or transmission is having an issue - i.e., slipping and going out, however, I don't hear any noises from that department.

On top of that - no CEL, no codes, nothing!
The only indicator that came up today is the DSC light, which blinked a couple of times and then got stuck until I did a stop engine start engine - which makes me believe that I should change brakes and rotors because these were changed 4 years / 34K miles ago.

So, I'm thinking about replacing the brakes and servicing the calipers now. I am still not convinced that there's a vacuum leak, however, I'm going to double-check this.

Has anyone ever experienced a similar issue? The only topic that is slightly related that I could find is this.
Any ideas?
 
update: this is nothing related to the brakes. If calipers ever would get stuck, the noise and pull would be noticeable.
Driving around while collecting data from intake airflow, throttle position, long term fuel trim (LTFT) indicates that this must be somehow related to either a vacuum leak or a problem with MAF or TPS sensors.
I'll swap the sensors, check and clean the TB and will see what changes.

Interestingly, after unplugging the MAF sensor, starting the car, failing to start with MAF unplugged and then re-plugging in the MAF sensor, I was able to briefly make the car run "normal" - without throttle getting closed asap. Although, this brought up the CEL light, which I cleared and returned to the starting point.
 
Update: swapped 2 different MAF sensors - no change, still low RPM at idle 650 or so, throttle closing shortly after gas pedal is depressed.
Next check - throttle body, leaks, see if changing the TPS sensor can help.
 
Does this car have an IAC? If so, clean it and the throttle body and if needed, replace the IAC. Also suspect the TPS like you mentioned.
 
Changing one parameter at a time:
cleaned the throttle body, as it was quite dirty, replaced the O-ring, cleaned the intake, checked for any cracks or holes - everything is more or less okay. 1 air filter clip is broken, though, and the TPS sensor screws are now not super tight.

The RPS doesn't drop as much as it used to. I would even say, this condition is gone.

The only problem I'm observing now is a very low, <600 RPM, at idle. For example, when stopped at the red light, with the shift in D, regardless of whether the AC on or off.

ECU is surely considering the current air-fuel mixture as lean: LTFT is never around 0 - the lowest I observed was around 5, mostly it's between 6 and 10; even 16 sometimes. As far as I remember, this car have always been running with a very low MPG - I always thought that this is due to driving pattern, which mostly consists of short infrequent trips.
And the spark plugs look like the engine was running rich all the time.

My next step is replacing the TPS.

Is it a hard job?
Can this be done without disconnecting the throttle body from the coolant lines?
Any piece of advice you can share?
 

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