Young Roids
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- The pennies have been saved the MS3 is mine!
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Regarding synthetic Oil change
- Thread starter Hyun
- Start date
AMSOIL is the last mass-market Group IV based oil.
now.. just because it's a group IV oil dosen't mean that all Group III's are inferior.. a oils addative package is just as important as what group it is primarly consisted of. That's why Mobile clean 5000 is a far better oil than say.. supertech brand.. even though they're both Group II oils.
as for which is best based on "studies" I usually call BS on them all.. the only real tests that can be both conclusive and realistic are oil analysis testing on acutal cars that are abused and daily driven, which is what http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ is for, that fourm is loaded with oil analysis tests on just about any oil on the market.
now.. just because it's a group IV oil dosen't mean that all Group III's are inferior.. a oils addative package is just as important as what group it is primarly consisted of. That's why Mobile clean 5000 is a far better oil than say.. supertech brand.. even though they're both Group II oils.
as for which is best based on "studies" I usually call BS on them all.. the only real tests that can be both conclusive and realistic are oil analysis testing on acutal cars that are abused and daily driven, which is what http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ is for, that fourm is loaded with oil analysis tests on just about any oil on the market.
Dude seriously switch to synthetic. And if you can afford it use royal purple. I have a friend who had to rebuild (not an engine fault it was his he craked the bedplate after installing a bolt into the flywheel with to much torque) his motor in his SRT-4( i know i know but the thing is a monster and eats c5 vetts for breakfast). I also knew the orriginal owner who used nothing but Royal Purple oil, the engine had well over 60k miles and it all looked BRAND NEW. I highly recomend it, and I am a mechanic...well im still in school for that but hey im close.
I have read a # of articles on Motor Oil looking for information on which are the best, and what additives make it so. I do have one PDF file where 18 different synthetic engine oils were tested in a rig where a bearing was loaded to the point of failure. The Royal Purple was the best performer of these oils that is available in stores where I live. (If you would like a copy of the file email me at pruzink@charter.net). I switched to Royal Purple in my gas engine cars a few years ago and have been pleased with the results. I use Blackstone Labs to analyze my used motor oil (there are other labs that perform this same service, I found Blackstone to be convenient). The proof of the pudding is really in the UOA's (Use Oil Analysis'). The primary reason I have a UOA done is to look at the wear metals (Iron, Aluminum, Copper, Chromium, Lead), but the report will also alert you if any dirt is getting past your air filter or if you are getting any coolant in your oil (the price for a UOA is $22.50). Blackstone will also compare your results for this engine to a database of the same engine to see where you fit in. My son's last UOA (2003 Corolla) with 4,500 miles on Royal Purple 5W-30 Synthetic had 9 PPM Iron, 5 PPM Aluminum, 2 PPM Copper, 1 PPM Lead, 0 Chromium & Lead, which I was very pleased with.
I own an 04 Diesel Jetta. The 04 & later VW diesels use a cam actuated fuel injector that develops 30,000 psi of pressure. The force of the cam load on that fuel injector lifter is quite a bit more than the force required to open a valve so VW had to specify engine oils that could withstand very high shear stress. With these engines, if you don't use an approved oil, it will not last very long. The website for the diesel owners has many, many posts of all of the UOA's of owners and the various diesel engine oils. The oil change interval for my car is every 10K miles, so spending the extra $22 to ensure that I am propperly protecting the engine isn't that bad.
My wife just bought an 06 Mazda 6i, so I have been trying to read up on potential problems and maintenace issues. A typical synthetic oil these days has a very high percentage of additives (I have read 20-25%). The various manufacturers are always trying new things, so I agree that the only way to really know what works the best is to look at the results of how it performs in your car.
I own an 04 Diesel Jetta. The 04 & later VW diesels use a cam actuated fuel injector that develops 30,000 psi of pressure. The force of the cam load on that fuel injector lifter is quite a bit more than the force required to open a valve so VW had to specify engine oils that could withstand very high shear stress. With these engines, if you don't use an approved oil, it will not last very long. The website for the diesel owners has many, many posts of all of the UOA's of owners and the various diesel engine oils. The oil change interval for my car is every 10K miles, so spending the extra $22 to ensure that I am propperly protecting the engine isn't that bad.
My wife just bought an 06 Mazda 6i, so I have been trying to read up on potential problems and maintenace issues. A typical synthetic oil these days has a very high percentage of additives (I have read 20-25%). The various manufacturers are always trying new things, so I agree that the only way to really know what works the best is to look at the results of how it performs in your car.
Powerslave
Banned
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- mps 3
yeah from what ive heard mobil 1, castol, and royal purple are the top competitors..if unless you have some way to test the oil you have to use the butt dyno... A guy at highlow "oriely" said that motorcraft synthetic blend meets a rigid quality standard that matches synthetic @ 2.99 quart. It does say on the bottle "devloped by Ford" "meets "....." specifiactions. At 2.99 a quart I might give it a shot.
I have been lurking on bobistheoilguy.com for a while and have found very little information about Royal Purple. Pennzoil Platinum seems to be the latest "darling" of discussion. There are claims that is is ideal for the Mazda DISI engines because it seems to handle higher levels of fuel dilution without impacting measured wear particles. I have seen comments questioning the applicability of Royal Purple for long change intervals (10k+). This may be related to the additive package. The performance of Royal Purple in the article distributed by Pruzink was definitely impressive, but great performance on one test does not necessarily make an oil the best choice for all conditions. Unfortunately the test did not include Amsoil or Pennzoil Platinum.
-enganear
-enganear
Absolutely eng i've seen some great demos with film strength on RP and use in my high revving N/A neon & happy. Didn't take down motor but 100,000 of [bordering on] abuse and its held together. Not one motor REPAIR . Some mechanic said Guy blew his turbo right after trying RP. I won't dare try it without the facts. Help me out guys. I'm a new to turbo and want to protect my mazdaspeed every way I can. Sorry um Royal Purple
kingpinMS3
Member
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- 2008 blue mica speed3 grand touring
royal purple makes good product. i used them in my GTI, and my friend who had a 2000 WS6 with a 382 all bore LS1 ran it with 0 problems as well.
TurboWagon
Member
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- 2008 Mazdaspeed3
I have been lurking on bobistheoilguy.com for a while and have found very little information about Royal Purple. Pennzoil Platinum seems to be the latest "darling" of discussion. There are claims that is is ideal for the Mazda DISI engines because it seems to handle higher levels of fuel dilution without impacting measured wear particles. I have seen comments questioning the applicability of Royal Purple for long change intervals (10k+). This may be related to the additive package. The performance of Royal Purple in the article distributed by Pruzink was definitely impressive, but great performance on one test does not necessarily make an oil the best choice for all conditions. Unfortunately the test did not include Amsoil or Pennzoil Platinum.
-enganear
My first oil change was putting in PP full-syn but I changed it with just about 3000 so I am not sure of any true difference. Where have you found this information regarding the Pennzoil? I got it because it is uber cheap at the Wal-mart and I have also heard multiple good ratings.
I posted this a while back but I am going to explain it some, I have a friend with a nsrt its stage 3 and is a monster I'm not gonna lie. We both went to the local tech school for automotive service tech.
So anyways we are putting in a new clutch when one of the bolts goes in wrong and things go real bad from there. Long story short is it cracked the bedplate and the bolt head stripped so he needed to get a lot fixed.
The motor had to pretty much be rebuilt. We took it all apart down to the last bolt. The owner before my friend also went to the school but needed AWD for where he was moving bought an EVO and sold the srt. The previous owner was very very meticulous and kept very good care of his cars. He only used Royal Purple.
PS my buddy the current owner drives like an idiot(read: bat outta hell everywhere he goes) so the engine took some beating and that oil still held up extremly well.
When we had that engine apart, it literally looked new, it had over 70k miles on it too. Not a sign of any wear...at all. Cylinder walls were smooth as a well a new cylinderwall, even the piston rings looked new. Crank was spotless. So yeah Royal Purple is a good product.
So anyways we are putting in a new clutch when one of the bolts goes in wrong and things go real bad from there. Long story short is it cracked the bedplate and the bolt head stripped so he needed to get a lot fixed.
The motor had to pretty much be rebuilt. We took it all apart down to the last bolt. The owner before my friend also went to the school but needed AWD for where he was moving bought an EVO and sold the srt. The previous owner was very very meticulous and kept very good care of his cars. He only used Royal Purple.
PS my buddy the current owner drives like an idiot(read: bat outta hell everywhere he goes) so the engine took some beating and that oil still held up extremly well.
When we had that engine apart, it literally looked new, it had over 70k miles on it too. Not a sign of any wear...at all. Cylinder walls were smooth as a well a new cylinderwall, even the piston rings looked new. Crank was spotless. So yeah Royal Purple is a good product.
AutoXRacer
Member
I'm currently using Red Line in my drivetrain; engine and tranny. And I'm happy with it. Red Line has been the only oil for me that has smoothed out trannys. So I figured, if it works so well in trannys, maybe it does the same for engines...
I used Amsoil in my last Mazda (Miata) and it worked well I guess...had to trade in the old Miata at 204K miles due to excessive oil consumption.
I used Amsoil in my last Mazda (Miata) and it worked well I guess...had to trade in the old Miata at 204K miles due to excessive oil consumption.
I appreciate the testimonials, but I would really like to see some UOA (Used Oil Analysis) results. Personally I have used Mobil 1 for 25 years with never a lubrication related failure. My 5.0 Mustang only used a quart between 10k mile changes at 188k miles and had great compression. Burt Rutan chose Mobil 1 for the Voyager around the world flight. The test results distributed by Pruzink and lurking on Bobistheoilguy.com has taught me Mobil 1 may not be the best choice any more. Redline looks like a very poor value as well. Royal Purple looks very interesting because of its impressive film strength, but if it doesn't handle fuel dilution well, it may not be the best choice for the DISI. I don't really know because of the lack of real documented results.
I am leaning toward Pennzoil Platinum right now based on the UOAs posted at BITOG and its resistance to fuel dilution.
-enganear
I am leaning toward Pennzoil Platinum right now based on the UOAs posted at BITOG and its resistance to fuel dilution.
-enganear
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