BadgerMazda
Member
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- 2013 Mazda5
Hey all, just looking for some pics or insight to what people are doing for a trailer hitch and corresponding bike rack for the rear hitch.
Rear hitch and bike rear hitch rack set ups
- Thread starter BadgerMazda
- Start date
I went to U-Haul and had them install a 1 1/4 hitch. The vehicle is only rated for 200 pound tongue load, so you can't go with a 2" hitch. Haven't used a bike rack so don't have any recs for that unfortunately, but many here can help with that. Here's my thread with pics: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123801377-2012-Mazda5-trailer-hitch
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BadgerMazda
Member
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- 2013 Mazda5
Looks good. I have looked into U-haul as well, glad to actually see one installed.
I installed a 1-1/4" Draw-Tite and use an older Thule 4 bike rack. It was a fairly simple DIY, but you do have to bend the exhaust heat shield to squeeze the mounting plate in, which also makes torquing one of the bolts a bit of a pain. You also have to enlarge a hole in the frame to fish through one of the bolt anchors.
The tongue weight limit is rated as 200 lbs by Draw-Tite, so you'll notice that the bike rack manufacturers recommend carrying only 2 bikes on a Class I, 1-1/4" hitch.
If you're carrying heavy bikes, I'd stick to two. If they are sub-20lbs bikes, you can probably get away with more. I read somewhere that you have to calculate more than static weight, though, because the rack acts like a lever. So best to carry the heaviest bike closest to the car.
The tongue weight limit is rated as 200 lbs by Draw-Tite, so you'll notice that the bike rack manufacturers recommend carrying only 2 bikes on a Class I, 1-1/4" hitch.
If you're carrying heavy bikes, I'd stick to two. If they are sub-20lbs bikes, you can probably get away with more. I read somewhere that you have to calculate more than static weight, though, because the rack acts like a lever. So best to carry the heaviest bike closest to the car.
Here is my install: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123830445-How-to-install-hitch-in-2012-Mazda-5
I don't have a picture with the bike rack but I got mine form Costco, so far works ok.
I don't have a picture with the bike rack but I got mine form Costco, so far works ok.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
In my bias opinion, there are only two hitches any Mazda5 owner should ever consider.
1) If you want an easy installed and go by the books, get the <'10 Curt hitch
2) If you want a more robust hitch (more involved installed), get the +'12 Curt hitch
Go to Curt’s site and look up their install guides. Curts are Made in the US with quality steel and welds –they are a damn fine product. I have the +'12 hitch on my '08 and the 1.25" receiver does NOT have the little notch inside that screams class 1
, which folks have to mod to make it a class 2 (not sure about the <'10 Curt). The rear ends of the all Mz5's ('06-'14) are identical, difference is the bumper cover.
I like my SoftRide Dura Assist bike rack (you need to mod it to work so it may not be for everyone) and the Trail-gator is very nice accessory if you have small kids who can't ride for too long.
1) If you want an easy installed and go by the books, get the <'10 Curt hitch
2) If you want a more robust hitch (more involved installed), get the +'12 Curt hitch
Go to Curt’s site and look up their install guides. Curts are Made in the US with quality steel and welds –they are a damn fine product. I have the +'12 hitch on my '08 and the 1.25" receiver does NOT have the little notch inside that screams class 1
, which folks have to mod to make it a class 2 (not sure about the <'10 Curt). The rear ends of the all Mz5's ('06-'14) are identical, difference is the bumper cover.I like my SoftRide Dura Assist bike rack (you need to mod it to work so it may not be for everyone) and the Trail-gator is very nice accessory if you have small kids who can't ride for too long.
My 2010 5MT with bike rack installed...and props for the Curt wiring harness
I've had the Curt hitch on my 2010 5MT for quite a while; it was a "bicycle carrier" mount while it was still in warranty.
I have a photo of it carrying bikes in this post:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123748419-What-have-you-done-with-your-Mazda5-today&p=5178638&viewfull=1#post5178638
So recently, I actually needed to pull a U-Haul trailer, which meant it was time to install some wiring. I'd bought a Curt model-specific harness a while back, and it worked great! It's all pre-made, with a "smart box" controller of some type that connects to power, ground, and the tail light harness connectors on each side. No splicing or identifying the right "yellow wire with pale blue stripe" stuff. Just the usual few fasteners to remove to be able to pop the rear cargo side panels open enough to work. Probably about an hour to install, total.
They want you to run the power wire directly to the battery. That was more work than I wanted, if I could avoid it somehow. I took advantage of having a switched, fused power line to the rear cargo 12v outlet and just crimped onto that. It worked just fine, a caveat that you'd then only have trailer lights when the vehicle is running / is switched to the ACC setting at least.
Here's a link to the product I used for wiring the lights:
http://www.curtmfg.com/part/56016
A little pricey, but very labor-saving.
I've had the Curt hitch on my 2010 5MT for quite a while; it was a "bicycle carrier" mount while it was still in warranty.
I have a photo of it carrying bikes in this post:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123748419-What-have-you-done-with-your-Mazda5-today&p=5178638&viewfull=1#post5178638
So recently, I actually needed to pull a U-Haul trailer, which meant it was time to install some wiring. I'd bought a Curt model-specific harness a while back, and it worked great! It's all pre-made, with a "smart box" controller of some type that connects to power, ground, and the tail light harness connectors on each side. No splicing or identifying the right "yellow wire with pale blue stripe" stuff. Just the usual few fasteners to remove to be able to pop the rear cargo side panels open enough to work. Probably about an hour to install, total.
They want you to run the power wire directly to the battery. That was more work than I wanted, if I could avoid it somehow. I took advantage of having a switched, fused power line to the rear cargo 12v outlet and just crimped onto that. It worked just fine, a caveat that you'd then only have trailer lights when the vehicle is running / is switched to the ACC setting at least.
Here's a link to the product I used for wiring the lights:
http://www.curtmfg.com/part/56016
A little pricey, but very labor-saving.
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That will be fine. Would be best to add a tranny cooler.
One guy here pulls a full camper trailer, that is like 4-5 bikes at least.
Just don't overload and end up like this guy:
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
IIRC, buried in one of these post there was a Canadian (?) member who towed two motorcycles to ride the "Tail of the dragon" in NC and said it was fine.
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2008/02/the-great-american-anti-towing-conspiracy/
This can be debated to death but use common sense.
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Wishmaster
Member
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- 07 Galaxy Gray AT Mazda5 GT
Two summers in a row I've pulled a small tent trailer that, loaded up, weighs about 1300 lbs. Important thing to remember is to ensure it's level or even a tiny bit rearward biased as the tongue rating for the mazda5 (outside NA) and for the hitches for the Mazda5 is 200 lbs. Both years we've also had the rear of the car pretty loaded up, 2 adults and 2 kids. It worked just fine. Only thing I did was to keep the tranny in manual shift mode most of the time so that I could shift when I was not accelerating... though that may even be a bit of an over precaution.
Travel time was only a couple hours (plus a 2 hour ferry ride) and not over any mountain passes (plenty of hills though). I would probably be wary of taking it through any mountains... it pulled just fine on hills but not sure I would want to subject it to long mountain climbs with that much weight?
I also use a cushioned ball mount to help make it a bit easier on the car - https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
You also need to remember this vehicle, in the UK, with no modifications what-so-ever, is rated to tow 1322 lbs. For that matter a Toyota Yaris in the UK is rated to tow 1200 lbs!
I also have a very small utility trailer that I make dump runs with, it'll hold about half yard of soil or bark mulch, which the 5 handles just fine.
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I haven't noticed any, and I didn't do anything in particular to prevent it with the heat shield. As I remember, the heat shield is fairly rigid (see my first photo above), so it probably minimizes any rattling.
Haven't noticed any noise against the rear fascia either.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Depends on what hitch you are looking at. The Hidden Hitch and Draw Tight (same thing) does not go near the head shield. They are designed to mount to the tow hook on the exhaust side. If you know which Hitch you are after I’d recommend you search and look up the respective install guide to understand where/how it mounts. The Curt hitch for +’12 required cutting out the existing heat shield as the hitch has a build in heat shield. Curt did this to give you the most robust mounting points – on the car’s unibody frame. There are times (REALLLLLY bad NY roads) I hear something knocking in the rear but I’m not sure if this is the exhaust canister hitting the hitch or “something else” back there making a ruckus. We all know our rear suspension is awesome…
Structurally the rear ends for both gens are identical except the +’12 appears to have a slightly shorting rear bumper cover. Ample space between hitch and bumper cover.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...rt-Class-1-hitch-install-on-lt-’10&highlight=
That's not accurate. Look at my first photo above. There's a tab that secures to the frame, between it and the exhaust. The heat shield has to be bent away from the frame in order to install the bolt.
Here are some photos posted on etrailer (not mine) to better illustrate: http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Mazda/5/2012/24874.html?vehicleid=2012306789
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
You are right. I stand corrected. I didn't realize DT/HH are different for the +'12 model . Goes to show I'm outdated. They added an extra mounting point. Makes me wonder why anyone would buy the DT/HH for the <'10! (I do not know if they fit nor am I promoting using something not advised by the vendor)... Those stink.