Quick question about wastegate actuator

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2003.5 Blazing Yellow MSP (Forged)
Quick question about wastgate actuator.

Should the wastgate actuator hold vacuum that is applied to it? It seems like it should, otherwise it would be a vacuum leak, right?

I am having some strange vacuum issues and I'm using a vacuum pump to track down any/all leaks. When using the vacuum pump to apply vacuum to the line going to wastgate actuator, it wouldl not hold vacuum. I inspected the line and there was nothing wrong with it or the connections. I then used the pump to apply vacuum directly to the nipple via a brand new piece of hose and it still did not hold any vacuum. All other vacuum lines in the system seem to hold strong.


Please help!
 
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I was having this prob with my car and they replaced the actuator a while back. But I think I'm going through the same thing again. the car seems to want to stall at odd times right? Sometimes it's cool other times it's idling really low and wants to cut out likee theres a vac leak. I'd replace the actuator and go from there if the prob is still there.
 
Oh by the way when I had issues with the actuator my exhaust got a lot louder like an N/A car. If that helps any.
 
I'm not having any problems with boost so far. But yes, those seem to be the issues that I am having at idle. The wastgate actuator is causing a vacuum leak.

According to low_psi, the ATP Turbo 6lb actuator is a direct fit, so I guess I'll be ordering one tomorrow. I could probably get it warrantied, but it doesn't seem worth the effort of returning to stock.
 
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ATP Turbo 6lb wastgate actuator is ordered and on the way...

Maybe I'll reinstall the unichip EBC and see if it works correctly after replacing the actuator? I took it out right after I installed it, due to ridiculous spikes.
 
When I put the new WGA in my car boosted 2psi extra just from the wastegate(holding 8-9psi). Turning the UC EBC on gave me 14psi, instead of the previous 12psi. You'll probably still have spikes so just keep an eye on that gauge :)
 
Hmm, that is strange. It seems like it should be at 6lbs, right. Oh well, 8-9lbs is really what I want anyway. Thanks again for info!
 
I would like to test my wastegate line for a vacuum leak. Do i simply blow into the wastegate vaccum tube and check for a leak?
 
The best way is to use a hand operated vacuum pump.
 
Ben@Toeldo said:
I would like to test my wastegate line for a vacuum leak. Do i simply blow into the wastegate vaccum tube and check for a leak?

Yeah, a handheld vac pump would be best, but if you can freely blow air through the line with it attached to the WGA then that would mean that there is a leak in the line or the WGA itself is leaking.
 
dirtysouth_msp said:
Yeah, a handheld vac pump would be best, but if you can freely blow air through the line with it attached to the WGA then that would mean that there is a leak in the line or the WGA itself is leaking.

I used a kids snot sucker because that was what I had handy at the time ;P
 
Do you have a boost gauge?? if so what is it reading at idle? Because i could swear i have a vaccum leak or something wrong with the wastegate as well, i dynoed my car yesterday and got horrible issues with loss of boost... the car would build boost and then just loose it, i have a feeling there is a leak or something has went up ... my boost gauge reads 10vac at idle and i dont think that is right. Does anyone else have this problem or have any idea how i can fix it? Or do you all read 10vac at idle i heard most read about 20vac

dirtysouth_msp said:
Yeah, a handheld vac pump would be best, but if you can freely blow air through the line with it attached to the WGA then that would mean that there is a leak in the line or the WGA itself is leaking.
 
You've got a leak somewhere, my car was at 22vac give or take a few psi when the fans would kick on.
 
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