P5 Emblem Rust

[pureliquidhw]

I have read that it is common for P5's to rust on the holes for the "Protege5" emblem. I noticed mine right after i heard about it and now there is orange metal showing. I took the emblem off to see the extent of the damage and there is a thumb sized spot of rust. is 300 bucks anywhere close to being reasonable for a fix?

I got 2 quotes ant they are both in the 200-300 range. one shop said they would do some sort of final clear coat on the whole car.

Is that reasonable? I truly have no idea what a reasonable charge is to take care of that rust. Please help?

 

[sube]

I have read that it is common for P5's to rust on the holes for the "Protege5" emblem. I noticed mine right after i heard about it and now there is orange metal showing. I took the emblem off to see the extent of the damage and there is a thumb sized spot of rust. is 300 bucks anywhere close to being reasonable for a fix?

I got 2 quotes ant they are both in the 200-300 range. one shop said they would do some sort of final clear coat on the whole car.

Is that reasonable? I truly have no idea what a reasonable charge is to take care of that rust. Please help?

If they are going to fix the rust and repaint the entire tailgate that is a more than fair price. Why don't you get them to weld the holes up and either leave the emblem off or reattch with just double side tape.

Pat.

 

[pureliquidhw]

thats what they were going to do. actually it was 400 to weld the whole thing and tape all the decals up. It just seems steep. that's 5% what i paid for the car lol. Should i drop some extra cash for them to touch up ant other spots? is it cheaper once they have it in the shop?

 

[sube]

thats what they were going to do. actually it was 400 to weld the whole thing and tape all the decals up. It just seems steep. that's 5% what i paid for the car lol. Should i drop some extra cash for them to touch up ant other spots? is it cheaper once they have it in the shop?

Makes no difference they charge an hourly rate, might get a little better deal but not much I would assume. That is not steep believe me, body and paint costs an arm and a leg. You need to answer your own question, if you intend to keep the car and it is in basically good shape I would fix it. But then I am anal about my cars. If I get a door dent today, the Paintless dent guy will be here tomorrow taking the ding out

Pat.

 

[danny1rod]

That's a good deal!!!!

 

[RABID_MP5]

you definitely gotta address the rust - or it will grow real big. That said, you might be able to cover a repair somehow say with a rectangle of appropriate color decal etc. & maybe stick the Protege5 logo over it. There's a line here where it gets tacky looking real fast though. There are some 'MP5' rectangular logos floating around that you might sub in over it all, but I don't know if they are big enough to cover it all. Otherwise, yeah good bodywork ain't cheap. At some point the value becomes a question. But if the rest of your P5 is decent, I'd say do it right.

 

[pureliquidhw]

i think i'll try touching it up myself then covering it. worst case they have to repaint the whole hatch which they were gonna do anyways. 90% is covered by the p5 emblem so i should be g2g.

 

[Footballer]

I see a lot of guys over here on the forum are welding their holes left by taking the rear emblem off. Why don't you use the kit used to patch up dents in bumpers and repaint?

I need to work on the rust around the rear emblem, but I'll put it back!

 

[CheeseHelmet]

You can get the supplies to do it yourself for less than $100 (primer, color-matched paint, clear coat, sandpaper, bondo, etc). If you just want to stop the rust and hide the damage, that might be the way to go. I tried fixing up my rear wheel-well, it looks better but you really need to take it to a pro to get the paint to blend nicely. Depending on how you look at my car you can see a pretty clear line where the old paint stops and the new paint starts.

IMO a crappy paint job looks better than rust spots, I can't justify spending hundreds of dollars on something that is purely for looks.

Edit: Regarding the topic of this thread, I have a bit of bubbling starting around the emblem. I plan to sand down a small area around it and re-paint that. I might have some time next week; when I do it I'll take pics.

 

[Ride92]

For a small spot like that I would sand/grind/wirewheel down to bare metal, use a rust inhibator of somesort, prime, touchup paint in a spray can if you can find it, wet sand, touchup paint again, wet sand, buff with rotary, clear, wet sand, clear, wet sand, final buff and then reattach emblems. I would leave the holes just make sure you use some silicone on the emblem posts to make a good seal around the holes and be sure to go on the inside of the rear hatch and do the above procces to some extent, it's hidden behind the intrerior panel so I would sand and buff probably just primer. and the call it good. Take your time and it should come out well enough that you don't really notice it and be much cheaper then a shop. If you are willing to give up your time to do it. If you don't have the time to do it right then pay someone who does.

 

[hornsfan10609]

$400 to shave the tailgate holes and repaint the whole tailgate seems like a pretty fair deal.

 

[iJay]

why waste the $? Just grind it down cover it with clear nail polish r clear coat and cover it with a magnetic sticker?

 

[CheeseHelmet]

why waste the $? Just grind it down cover it with clear nail polish r clear coat and cover it with a magnetic sticker?

Haha, that's what my grandpa does to cover up scratches on his bumper.

I'd rather keep the P5 badge (it's a good-looking badge) and try to make it look like the rust was never there in the first place (provided you don't look too hard).

 

[iJay]

If your gonna do it all the way, rip out the hatch liner and have em patch the hole from the inside too, that door holds ALOT of water and traps tons of moisture.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

I got some pics from the work I did on my emblem rust, it turned out ok but I really suck when it comes to bondo-ing.

Here's what I started with:

After pulling off the badge and cleaning the area I was left with:

hmmmm, it seems someone already worked on this before...

This was used to remove the bulk of the cancer:

Which leaves you with:

Next is the part I'm bad at, the bondo-ing:

After sanding and priming the bondo:

More sanding then paint:

Two wet clearcoats later:

The final result in the sun:

Notice that you can make out where I bondo-ed (there's a ring around "Prot" area of the badge).

This wasn't a very hard job, it just takes a lot of time (about a day and a half).

 

[Mad Mike]

I got some pics from the work I did on my emblem rust, it turned out ok but I really suck when it comes to bondo-ing.

The point is that you tried. and it came out looking great IMO. is it perfect? No. Are you a professional with years of experience? No. But you took the initiative and I applaud your efforts. (cool)

 

[wagon]

+1

 

[Ride92]

great job. As long as it's a 50/50 job (looks good from 50feet or going 50mph) I say you did well. Looks better then the rust. Body work is my least fav thing to do. Takes some much dam time to wait for everything to dry and then sand then paint then dry then sand, you get the idea.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

great job. As long as it's a 50/50 job (looks good from 50feet or going 50mph) I say you did well. Looks better then the rust. Body work is my least fav thing to do. Takes some much dam time to wait for everything to dry and then sand then paint then dry then sand, you get the idea.

My sentiments exactly, if you don't have time to kill then it's not worth it. I'm a student and it's exam season so I have a few days with nothing to do here and there

 

[bazooka joe]

fix it your self, save $375, and you'll have some supplies left over for the next rust spot along the rear fenders(evil)