New to site... problem with 626 engine swap.

[Chad92]

I did find a coon-rig way of holding the cams: I used who wrenches and some vice grips to hold the cams where I needed them to be. Here is a pic...

<a href="http://s978.photobucket.com/user/dcdirtrider/media/IMG_0489_zpsb3921ee5.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/dcdirtrider/IMG_0489_zpsb3921ee5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0489_zpsb3921ee5.jpg"/></a>

Also, here is a pic of the timing I did. The picture does show that the marks are off but that is because of the rotations Did afterwords. I did rotate the crank and checked the marks on the gears and the crank gear and they lined up damn-near perfect. Ill take another pic when I get to the shop again. But here is the pic.

<a href="http://s978.photobucket.com/user/dcdirtrider/media/IMG_0490_zpse98b2dbc.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/dcdirtrider/IMG_0490_zpse98b2dbc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0490_zpse98b2dbc.jpg"/></a>

As you can see, the marks are off, but that is due to a some fiddling with the cams after the check-up rotations

 

[Installshield 2]

yeah if that pic is just after TDC, you should be ok...i'd say you're safe to figure out what the leak is about, and try to return whatever that guy did to the intake to as close as stock as possible...at least for now...

 

[Chad92]

You may be able to make out in the first image that the mark is more centered, and can barely make out the mark on the (I) cam gear to see that they are lined up. But ill be working on the car again on thursday, So i will keep this forum up-to-date then. Ill take pics of the car as well.

Just a note: I only installed the exhaust cam gear as I thought that was the one that I needed, so hopefully the other one is not needed.

 

[Chad92]

Well, I brought the car back from the shop thursday, then a blizzard came through . But I had the chance to check out the starter and I need a new one. So before I get working on it again, I will need one of those ha. But I took a couple pics....

<a href="http://s978.photobucket.com/user/dcdirtrider/media/2013-03-24_19-15-03_755_zpse3e3cd3f.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/dcdirtrider/2013-03-24_19-15-03_755_zpse3e3cd3f.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-03-24_19-15-03_755_zpse3e3cd3f.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s978.photobucket.com/user/dcdirtrider/media/2013-03-24_19-16-37_343_zps33c78f09.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/dcdirtrider/2013-03-24_19-16-37_343_zps33c78f09.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2013-03-24_19-16-37_343_zps33c78f09.jpg"/></a>

Ill update as soon as I get a starter in her!

 

[Chad92]

Ok, so it finally dried out and becqme reasonably warm here so ordered a starter and installed it. I also found that on one of the leads that connected to a coil pack had a frayed-off wire, so I cut one of the identical connection ends off the donor 626 wiring harness, and saudered it in place of the other. I cranked her over and she started right up! But when she starts, one of the belts is squeaking very very loudly. Also it is running very rich and is spitting fuel out the muffler, and is not throwing a code so I cannot diagnose the problem through the ecu. I do not have all of the clamps tightened down on the intercooler piping so could a vacuum leak cause such a rich run? Also, where does the small outlet on the top of the bpv run to? Every picture that I have looked at does not have a clear view of the location, but it seems to lead to the top of the intake manifold. Any suggestions on either richness or bpv?

 

[Sport23]

The BPV boost line runs to a T connecter by the side of the engine. The line comes from the intake manifold, goes to the T, then goes to the BPV and WGA.

 

[Chad92]

Ok, thank yu Sport23! I found the tube that was dangling from the T and connected her up. But back to the engine problem. So this weekend, I messed with the engine a bit and connected all of the intercooler clamps up to ensure there was no leak. I started the car up once again and it was still running rough. I removed all of the plugs and found all the plugs ,besides the far right one (when looking at the front of the car), was completely black and fouled up. So I am guesssing the car is only running on 1 cylinder??? I have a video, but it is an Apple video, which doesnt play nice with other children and will not upload to anything. The car also is spitting a bit of fuel out the back end of the tail pipe and is running VERY rich, which is most likely also the cause/effect fouled out spark plugs. Could this be timing, as I assume that the far right cylinder is considered the #1 piston. Ill try to upload the video again but please help me out.

 

[Sport23]

It won't run on one cylinder. The plugs often come out very dark because the stock tune is so rich. You're issue is going to be that one cylinder that doesn't have a black plug. Btw the cylinders are numbered starting at the one closest to the belts. #1 is on the passenger side; #4 is on the driver side.

 

[Chad92]

It won't run on one cylinder. The plugs often come out very dark because the stock tune is so rich. You're issue is going to be that one cylinder that doesn't have a black plug. Btw the cylinders are numbered starting at the one closest to the belts. #1 is on the passenger side; #4 is on the driver side.

So possibly the injector may not be functioning correctly on (now knowingly corrected to) the 4th cylinder, or the 4th cylinder may not be getting any spark? Ill pull the injector and the plug to see if they are both functioning correctly, then I will update the thread once again. I have rebuilt my fair share of (carburated) dirt bike engines, but never a car... shoulda thought that through before buying a project (gah). Thanks again Sport23!

...Wait, if the car is spitting fuel out the back end and all the other three cylinders are firing, then the problem has to be the spark (ignition) on the last cylinder, Right? Since the car is spitting raw fuel out the tail pipe, all the other cylinders are working, then the fuel coming out the tailpipe must be from the 4th cylinder's fuel not being ignited and rather expelled out...? If not, maybe I need to re-watch some more Wheeler Dealer episodes to enhance my process-of-elimination skillz (bolt)

 

[Chad92]

Ok, now for the update. I took the #4 plug out and found that there was no connection spring inside the tube. So basically the power was not reaching the spark plug. I bought a new one and installed it and it runs a bit better (alright).

But... now the problem is the wastegate actuator, or at least I think so. When I rev the engine and then let of the gas, there is no "turkey" or any noise of pressure release in the system at all. I know that a faulty WG actuator is a plague among MSPs, and I do not want to drive until I know what the problem is. Should there be a noise that comes from either the wastgate or BPV? Maybe I have the wrong tube hooked into the actuator/WG? I do not have Boost guage attached so I do not know what pressure the turbo is creating. But any suggestions on this matter? (anyone)

PS... I know us newbies are not fun to deal with, but I do thank yal for the help that you have provided. Like I said, this is easilly the best forum I have ever used, by far (10). So thanks, again

 

[Sport23]

Ok, now for the update. I took the #4 plug out and found that there was no connection spring inside the tube. So basically the power was not reaching the spark plug. I bought a new one and installed it and it runs a bit better (alright).

But... now the problem is the wastegate actuator, or at least I think so. When I rev the engine and then let of the gas, there is no "turkey" or any noise of pressure release in the system at all. I know that a faulty WG actuator is a plague among MSPs, and I do not want to drive until I know what the problem is. Should there be a noise that comes from either the wastgate or BPV? Maybe I have the wrong tube hooked into the actuator/WG? I do not have Boost guage attached so I do not know what pressure the turbo is creating. But any suggestions on this matter? (anyone)

PS... I know us newbies are not fun to deal with, but I do thank yal for the help that you have provided. Like I said, this is easilly the best forum I have ever used, by far (10). So thanks, again

Are you reving the engine in neutral? If so you will not build boost and can not test your wga that way. You really need a boost gauge (if you don't have one already) and to go drive the car. Be gentle getting into boost and back off if you go over 7 psi or so.

 

[Chad92]

Took her for a drive the WG worked. Unfortunately the car overheats, needs a tune, needs a pilot bearing, and a lot more (bang)

 

[alazare619]

Not trying to thread jack this by any means but I've been searching for a replacement fs-de as well. Ive seen a few listed as w/ Disi and some W/ Coilpacks the link below is the one I'm currently looking into purchasing. Is this going to be a drop in replacement or will I have to swap cam's as well with this one?

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

 

[Chad92]

I would not buy that, especially for over $1k. There is a guide for what engines are most usable for the swap. Type "swap guide" in the search bar.

BTW: I got a 2001 FSDE for $400ish, and I felt like I a paid alot.