Installshield... you should replace the stickied protege shop manual on the mazdaspeed forum page. That was more thorough than the doctor during a 45 year old man's physical. But thank you for the information. I saw on utube that there was a video of removing the cams and was going to use that as a guide, but that write up just blew that out of the water. Ill be sure to make sure that I have the correct cam-sensor and cam-gear placement inline. Hopefully that gets her going. Thanks again for yals support... other forums and their people are usually d*cks. And who wanted a picture of the cam gear?
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New to site... problem with 626 engine swap.
- Thread starter Chad92
- Start date
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
haha thanks people...
yeah, i did this like 6 times in one weekend recently...If you weren't in Colorado i'd just drive over and do it for you...in 6.2 minutes...
and sorry for the length, there are no terms to really describe that center cut out on the gears...The gears do have I and E markings, but i forget exactly how those line up...plus my focus gears cover the markings anyway...so the 'boomerang' method worked perfectly for me a month ago haha.
yeah, i did this like 6 times in one weekend recently...If you weren't in Colorado i'd just drive over and do it for you...in 6.2 minutes...
and sorry for the length, there are no terms to really describe that center cut out on the gears...The gears do have I and E markings, but i forget exactly how those line up...plus my focus gears cover the markings anyway...so the 'boomerang' method worked perfectly for me a month ago haha.
After doing closer inspection of the car earlier today, I found this tucked up in the cars bowels. It is a connection that leads from the rear side of the transmission, and it has the same exact male lead as the rod-knock sensor. I have done some major snooping around the car to see if I can find where this fella needs to go, but have come up empty handed.... As the label I had previously put on it has dissappeared, I would like to know if any of yal know where this connects to? You might be able to make out the starting point of the lead, which is in the blurry part of the picture...
<a href="http://s978.beta.photobucket.com/user/dcdirtrider/media/photo_zps4c8c243b.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/dcdirtrider/photo_zps4c8c243b.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo photo_zps4c8c243b.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s978.beta.photobucket.com/user/dcdirtrider/media/photo_zps4c8c243b.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/dcdirtrider/photo_zps4c8c243b.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo photo_zps4c8c243b.jpg"/></a>
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
speed sensor? Did you get a gear box with the 626 engine? Is that hanging from the gear box and you can't find a connection on the engine harness, or vice versa? the MSP doesn't need a diff sensor for vehicle speed because of ABS...but if you have a different gear box or something, it may've came with the lead for it...Not sure, i can't really tell from the pic...
nope, this is the only gearbox that I have. Could it be a connection to a sensor on the exhaust system? I have a straight pipe so i do not know if I am missing a sensor, but here is the lead i am talking about
<a href="http://s978.beta.photobucket.com/user/dcdirtrider/media/msptrans2_zpsc87acf05.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/dcdirtrider/msptrans2_zpsc87acf05.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo msptrans2_zpsc87acf05.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s978.beta.photobucket.com/user/dcdirtrider/media/msptrans2_zpsc87acf05.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i978.photobucket.com/albums/ae267/dcdirtrider/msptrans2_zpsc87acf05.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo msptrans2_zpsc87acf05.jpg"/></a>
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
I'm pretty sure that is the speed sensor location, but again...the MSP and its box doesn't need that (i think the sensor plug is just filled with a bolt, but not sure) as ABS is used for the speedometer...it could also be the reverse switch...
So just to fully clarify...is your gear box from a mazdaspeed protege? and do you have a mazdaspeed protege with intact ABS? (you never removed the system or something?)...
I may be wrong on that though...i'll know for sure in a few weeks when i rip mine out for a clutch install, but as far as i know the gear box has 2 leads running into it...the speed sensor for non-abs cars...and the reverse switch...I thought the speed sensor was the lower of the two on the box, but i've been drinking in a hot tub...and am having trouble figuring out the orientation of the gear box from your last pic haha...
anyway, to cut myself off...i'm pretty sure its either the speed sensor or reverse switch...an MSP shouldn't have a speed sensor or lead coming out of the gear box...but i can't say that for sure, as i don't own one and am not exactly sure of the differences...in either case, the only thing i'd say is that that lead should be plugged into the engine harness somewhere...with your engine install you may've tucked one by accident under or behind the rear engine mount...
So just to fully clarify...is your gear box from a mazdaspeed protege? and do you have a mazdaspeed protege with intact ABS? (you never removed the system or something?)...
I may be wrong on that though...i'll know for sure in a few weeks when i rip mine out for a clutch install, but as far as i know the gear box has 2 leads running into it...the speed sensor for non-abs cars...and the reverse switch...I thought the speed sensor was the lower of the two on the box, but i've been drinking in a hot tub...and am having trouble figuring out the orientation of the gear box from your last pic haha...
anyway, to cut myself off...i'm pretty sure its either the speed sensor or reverse switch...an MSP shouldn't have a speed sensor or lead coming out of the gear box...but i can't say that for sure, as i don't own one and am not exactly sure of the differences...in either case, the only thing i'd say is that that lead should be plugged into the engine harness somewhere...with your engine install you may've tucked one by accident under or behind the rear engine mount...
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Neutral Switch
or
Reverse Light Switch
or
Reverse Light Switch
Yes, My transmission is a Mazdaspeed Protege unit and my car is a 2003.5 MSP. I can post pics of my car, as soon as I get to the shop again on friday. Maybe ill turn this thread into a build thread-ish thread. (boom05) But do you guys know where this lead goes, as in location in engine bay (Ex. Above charcoal canister on passengers side, should be a point to plug in). I have done a fair bit of routing around this morning on the car, but I was rushed into leaving for my finance course (Later cancelled for my professors excessive need to snowboard, good ol Colorado State). But I did do a pretty thorough job of trying to locate possible locations for the lead and came up with nothing. So let me know what yal think!
Ok, So i switched out the cam gar and ended up just doing the whole timing kit while I had the timing covers and belts off. After I did all of the stuff mentioned before, I cranked her over and... nothing. I cranked on her for a while and she finally started to sputter to life. After about 5 mins of cranking (and most likely a starter motor burned to shreds), she ran on her own for around 3-5 seconds then died. She had very rough idle and did not stay running. After that, my starter motor was basically molten metal so I stopped. But any ideas on why she will not come back to life. The car does have 1 year old prem-gas and spark plugs, but could that be the problem? I wanted to push start it, but my uncle advised not to. But again, the car stuttered, started-ish, idled rough, then died.... any ideas??? Im prolly gonna take it to DSM-Specialist and see if they can diagnose the problem, but I wanted to consult yal first! Lemme know please!
I also want to say thank you to Installshield, really great help on the miscellaneous items that don't make sense to this noob member... (hand)
I also want to say thank you to Installshield, really great help on the miscellaneous items that don't make sense to this noob member... (hand)
Your fuel system might need to be cleaned. I don't think gas is made to last that long without a stabilizer. I will say that my car started with 6+ month old gas. If it were me, I would replace the gas with fresh gas and inspect the condition of the plugs
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
No problem, chad...glad you got the cam timing figured out...
I highly doubt its specifically fuel related now...chemical properties of gasoline do allow it to absorb moisture, as well as 'gum' up over time...but with normal fuel injection systems, it'll take longer than just a year or so for that to become a major problem...especially considering the climate of where you live (its not nearly as humid constantly, like other parts of the country)...This commonly messes up smaller engines, that require very little fuel per cycle (a lawnmower, for example)...but a fuel system of a modern car with considerable pressure inside the fuel system...will usually have little trouble blowing all that gummed gasoline right through...despite a lot of myths about it...
One thing to try, first...is relieve the fuel pressure...you can do this 2 ways...the 'real' way is to remove the fuel pump relay in the engine bay fuse box..I forget which specific relay it is, but this link below should help...Some members have had trouble with this method, as removing the relay just caused their car to never start (and in which case its not removing the pressure)...so if that is the case, just pull the electrical plug on top of the fuel sending unit, under the rear seats...
try to start it by using either of those methods...it should turn over fine, hopefully start for a few seconds...then completely stall...that'll at least move the fuel around in there without sending more to the engine...then reconnect everything and start it again...it'll have to crank a few seconds longer before fuel reaches the engine...If still no start...it is most likely the pump...if it starts, but continues to have trouble...it may then be the fuel, or something ignition related...
What coils are you using, and how old are they? You should be using MSP plugs, wires, and coils... not whatever came with your 'new' engine...lots of changes to electronic ignition happened to these engines over a pretty brief time period...so try to use whatever parts your MSP ecu is used to seeing...check your plugs, and replace if necessary...as well as the wires...
lastly...any codes? and positive of no vacuum leaks? its VERY common for a slew of vacuum leaks to show up with a new engine install...intake manifold gaskets are very tricky to seat properly before a few heating cycles...did you install the IM with the engine out? that is far easier to get the gasket seated properly, but very easy to bump the entire IM during installation, which can distort the seal...causing a vacuum leak outside of the normal vacuum lines...
also i'd check all of the intake plumbing...did you replace hot and cold MSP pipes (i'm sorry if you've listed this, i just started typing haha)? Those are notorious for drying out...as well as the 'accordion' pipe running to the TB...if all that has just been sitting around in dry air for a year or so, its possible they are not sealing properly...for the most part, you should be concerned with plumbing behind (engine side) the MAF, as your car seems to be behaving like it has a major condition of ummetered air entering the engine...
You can try some water treatment in the fuel tank if you're really worried about it...but coming from all this occuring from a new engine being installed...i'm fairly sure its something not quite as simple...but who knows, maybe you'll luck out and just need some new gas...
Fuel pressure relief:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...y&highlight=protege+5+fuel+line+quick+release
I highly doubt its specifically fuel related now...chemical properties of gasoline do allow it to absorb moisture, as well as 'gum' up over time...but with normal fuel injection systems, it'll take longer than just a year or so for that to become a major problem...especially considering the climate of where you live (its not nearly as humid constantly, like other parts of the country)...This commonly messes up smaller engines, that require very little fuel per cycle (a lawnmower, for example)...but a fuel system of a modern car with considerable pressure inside the fuel system...will usually have little trouble blowing all that gummed gasoline right through...despite a lot of myths about it...
One thing to try, first...is relieve the fuel pressure...you can do this 2 ways...the 'real' way is to remove the fuel pump relay in the engine bay fuse box..I forget which specific relay it is, but this link below should help...Some members have had trouble with this method, as removing the relay just caused their car to never start (and in which case its not removing the pressure)...so if that is the case, just pull the electrical plug on top of the fuel sending unit, under the rear seats...
try to start it by using either of those methods...it should turn over fine, hopefully start for a few seconds...then completely stall...that'll at least move the fuel around in there without sending more to the engine...then reconnect everything and start it again...it'll have to crank a few seconds longer before fuel reaches the engine...If still no start...it is most likely the pump...if it starts, but continues to have trouble...it may then be the fuel, or something ignition related...
What coils are you using, and how old are they? You should be using MSP plugs, wires, and coils... not whatever came with your 'new' engine...lots of changes to electronic ignition happened to these engines over a pretty brief time period...so try to use whatever parts your MSP ecu is used to seeing...check your plugs, and replace if necessary...as well as the wires...
lastly...any codes? and positive of no vacuum leaks? its VERY common for a slew of vacuum leaks to show up with a new engine install...intake manifold gaskets are very tricky to seat properly before a few heating cycles...did you install the IM with the engine out? that is far easier to get the gasket seated properly, but very easy to bump the entire IM during installation, which can distort the seal...causing a vacuum leak outside of the normal vacuum lines...
also i'd check all of the intake plumbing...did you replace hot and cold MSP pipes (i'm sorry if you've listed this, i just started typing haha)? Those are notorious for drying out...as well as the 'accordion' pipe running to the TB...if all that has just been sitting around in dry air for a year or so, its possible they are not sealing properly...for the most part, you should be concerned with plumbing behind (engine side) the MAF, as your car seems to be behaving like it has a major condition of ummetered air entering the engine...
You can try some water treatment in the fuel tank if you're really worried about it...but coming from all this occuring from a new engine being installed...i'm fairly sure its something not quite as simple...but who knows, maybe you'll luck out and just need some new gas...
Fuel pressure relief:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...y&highlight=protege+5+fuel+line+quick+release
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- Banned For Being A Troll
It's not fuel
When I bought the car, it had custom fabricated hard pipes and an "auto-zone special" k&n type aftermarket filter. When I took the hard pipes off during the engine removal process, I noticed that they had an unusual amount of black sooty substance in them. So I bought some original piping (plastic msp piping) and replaced the hard piping. It does throw a code when I attempt to start it, but when the engine begins to idle, the code goes away. But after closer inspection of the upper inter cooler pipe, I noticed that there was a biggish crack in the inlet/outlet for the BPV. So that could possibly have been the problem? I will go purchase some sealant for the piping and see if that does the trick! I will also be taking it to a turbo-specialist shop to see what they think the problem is. But I will definitely check the plugs and other places for vacuum leaks. Oh, and I stalled both I/E manifolds when the engine was out of the car. And I am 99.99% sure I did the timing right, but it was my first time doing a DOHC timing belt. I had a completely stock Civic HX that I did it on, and it worked fine. But ill go grab a look at it again in a few days and see if I can find any vacuum leaks. But Ill let yal know! And thanks again for everyone's help!!!!
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
I was worried about that...for whatever reason buying used turbo-charged cars often results in the PO's doing all kinds of ghetto ass s*** to them haha...so yeah, you're on to something if you're finding obvious spots for air leaks...
but, like sport said...you have to be POSITIVE the engine is timed correctly before you proceed...I hope you were able to get someone to hold the cams with a wrench as you installed the belt...its very tricky to do right by yourself, and will take many attempts...EVERY TIME i install a belt, i cycle the engine by hand (turn clockwise at least 2 full rotations) a few times and check, then re check, then re check again...You did say you thought you had it, went back and checked and adjusted it again, so hopefully that means you have it right...but that WILL cause problems like what you're having, so if there really is any doubt...just check it again...maybe with some pictures, and we can help...
but, like sport said...you have to be POSITIVE the engine is timed correctly before you proceed...I hope you were able to get someone to hold the cams with a wrench as you installed the belt...its very tricky to do right by yourself, and will take many attempts...EVERY TIME i install a belt, i cycle the engine by hand (turn clockwise at least 2 full rotations) a few times and check, then re check, then re check again...You did say you thought you had it, went back and checked and adjusted it again, so hopefully that means you have it right...but that WILL cause problems like what you're having, so if there really is any doubt...just check it again...maybe with some pictures, and we can help...
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