Need New Breaks!

NYCZMP3 said:
i'll give u $5 to delete that post asiansloppie.....that seems to be the biggest bid u will get for u sweety....hehe

Hey LinuxRacr where on that site u see anythng for the protege??....i cant find the special you are takin bout...i am gonna get that hopefully i can get it i mean....
:D

Here is part of an e-mail I got from Rafi@rr-racing.com:

--------------------------------------
(2) Special KVR Performance brake kit deals until May 30th ONLY!
--------------------------------------

RR-Racing deals with KVR because KVR supplies the *highest* quality OEM Performance brakes, bar none. Remember, those so-called "Brembo" brakes share nothing with the $3000 Brembo Race systems, Brembo simply rebadges "made in China" rotors! KVR rotors are available either slotted or cross drilled, in your CHOICE of SILVER, GOLD, or BLACK cadmium plating!

... and now for the kicker... because of our close relationship with KVR Performance, RR-Racing is pleased to offer very special pricing on these brake kits until June 1st only, after that, prices go back up! How about front and rear rotors, your choice of slotted or cross drilled, WITH KVR carbon fiber pads, for just $325!
 
Not even gonna answer on the forum. YOU HAVE MY PHONE NUMBER! Quit phukin around and MAKE THE CALL!
 
Am I the only one that doesn't see an application for the Protege and the KVR brake kit. All I see is the Probe/MX6 etc. I personally wouldn't buy a brake kit unless it was model specific. In other words, if it doesn't say "this kit can be used on the 01-02 Mazda Protege", then it wouldn't be a good move.
 
I just talked ot Rafi, and he is going to check with KVR tomorrow for the application to the MP3. I am gonna go with the OEM brakes for now, and upgrade maybe later to something other than stock.
 
The kit is not listed on KVR's site. It would have to be custom made with a 4-6 week lead time. I talked to them back in January, it was around there anyways. Like I said before it does fit the 01-02 pro's and runs around 1300.00. Linux I feel your pain on the whole walet crunch thing, otherwise I would've gotten the kit and been able to give first hand opnions.
 
I actually take my protege out on the track and autocross it. I have abused my pads and rotors to death. I have 14k mi. on the car and at this point, under hard braking, there is a shudder. A clear sign that the rotors are warped. It's not huge, but it's noticeable. The rotors were warped from excessive heat, and it is in the front rotors not the rear. The problem showed up near the end of the last track day I went to. The pads are pretty worn out in the front and just starting to get there in the rear. I get my advice from people who race competitively on at least a monthly basis. Tri-Point recommends the Hawk HP Plus brake pad for a person that uses their vehicle the way I do (frequent autocrosses and occasional track days combined with daily driving). They recommend them for the front only and recommend using the stock pads out back. It's all you need. Since purchasing the Hawks, I've been told by an experienced road racer that they have a tendancy to be a little harsh on rotors, although the HPS versions may be a little better in that respect than the full race version of their pads, and that Porterfield pads offer the best combo of performance and rotor kindness. None of these people have recommended anything but putting a new set of stock rotors on the vehicle. Since I autocross I qualify to be a member of the Mazda Motorsports team support program. Through this program I can buy genuine Mazda parts for a discount through them. I just purchased the new front rotors yeaterday for $28 ea.! So I've figured out why I was told to just replace the stock rotors with stock rotors. There is the distinct possibility that I will still overheat a set of cross-drilled or slotted rotors and still have to replace them just as soon as a set of stock rotors. It's going to get real expensive to replace $325 worth of brake gear every 4-5 months when I can get 2 new front rotors, a set of rear brake pads and a set of high performance front pads for around $150.
A couple more points:
If you are abusing your brakes through harsh driving you should use brake fluid with a high dry boiling point. While the Motul fluid recommended here earlier has a high dry and wet boiling point and is really good exclusively for racing applications, it is highly hydroscopic(does not reject moisture) and needs to be changed frequently. It's not a good thing to use on a car that is driven daily. Additionally, it is really expensive and it comes in a plastic bottle which makes it a bad candidate for storing for any length of time because plastic bottles will allow moisture to enter after some time(metal cans are better). Another expensive one that has a fairly high dry boiling point is ATE Super Blue or ATE TYP 200. This comes in a metal can and does a good job of rejecting water, so it can go a long time without being changed. It's a good choice. I bleed my brakes often enough(because even with high boiling points I still get them to boil) that I can go a route of something that doesn't reject water as well but has a high dry boiling point, like the Motul. BUT, I don't want to spend a fortune on brake fluid so the best choice for me is the Ford(Motorcraft) high performance DOT 3 brake fluid. It's dry boiling point is a little higher than the ATE fluid, but it doesn't reject water all that well. No problem because I'm going to bleed it often enough that it won't matter and the plus side is that it's like $3 a can. There's a very good article abou this
here.
Next point, if you are doing track days or autocross, follow the previous advice here and do not set your parking brake, it will warp your rotors as they cool down.
Sorry for another long post!
 
Last edited:
I actually take my protege out on the track and autocross it. I have abused my pads and rotors to death. I have 14k mi. on the car and at this point, under hard braking, there is a shudder. A clear sign that the rotors are warped. It's not huge, but it's noticeable. The rotors were warped from excessive heat, and it is in the front rotors not the rear. The problem showed up near the end of the last track day I went to. The pads are pretty worn out in the front and just starting to get there in the rear. I get my advice from people who race competitively on at least a monthly basis. Tri-Point recommends the Hawk HP Plus brake pad for a person that uses their vehicle the way I do (frequent autocrosses and occasional track days combined with daily driving). They recommend them for the front only and recommend using the stock pads out back. It's all you need. Since purchasing the Hawks, I've been told by an experienced road racer that they have a tendancy to be a little harsh on rotors, although the HPS versions may be a little better in that respect than the full race version of their pads, and that Porterfield pads offer the best combo of performance and rotor kindness. None of these people have recommended anything but putting a new set of stock rotors on the vehicle. Since I autocross I qualify to be a member of the Mazda Motorsports team support program. Through this program I can buy genuine Mazda parts for a discount through them. I just purchased the new front rotors yeaterday for $28 ea.! So I've figured out why I was told to just replace the stock rotors with stock rotors. There is the distinct possibility that I will still overheat a set of cross-drilled or slotted rotors and still have to replace them just as soon as a set of stock rotors. It's going to get real expensive to replace $325 worth of brake gear every 4-5 months when I can get 2 new front rotors, a set of rear brake pads and a set of high performance front pads for around $150.

I said goddamn!!!!!!!:eek:
I think we have a new brake tech expert and racing liaison. Thanks for that great info! Its one thing to discuss something in theory and through the eyes of a parts ditrubitor, but real world track experiece like you have is invaluable :D
 
Thanks spoolin!

There will be more to come!

Much of what I know I learn by talking with guys who have far more racing experience than I do. You know, those "old guys"? The fact is they've seen more cars than you can think of come and go and there are many simple, basic truths that apply to almost every vehicle. I have met these guys through my affiliation with the local chapter of the SCCA and by attending track days that are sponsored by them. Most of these guys really like for you to ask questions and enjoy sharing their experiences with you. What they are really doing is taking some great relief in the fact that they are not alone in their infatuation with cars and racing. You know how an alcoholic doesn't like to drink alone? Plus, they're getting bored racing the same old dudes everytime they go out and they're happy to see some fresh faces and new talent come out and give them a challange.

I am actually setting up a situation for the remainder of this racing season to crew for a guy who prepares and rents spec miata and spec RX-7 race cars. I'm doing this before I purchase my dedicated race car so I can learn how to properly prepare and sort a vehicle for racing to get maximum performance, durability and serviceability. There are a lot of "tricks of the trade" to be learned that will be invaluable as I enter into club racing.
 
Last edited:
20ESGUY said:
BTW I'm not even sure our cars have 2 piston calipers in the front, I think they're only singles like the rears. [/B]
They are single piston all the way around.
 
Back