magnumP5's RX-7 Build Thread

Woohoo, finally got something done! Replaced air filter with K&N drop-in, changed the oil with Pennzoil 10W40, replaced spark plug with stock platinums, replaced stock spark plug wires with Magnecor 8.5 mm wires. I was going to drain/replace the coolant, transmission fluid and rear differential oil, but didn't get around to it...

On a weird note, I noticed one of the leading spark plug wires was unplugged. I don't believe I knocked it loose while working on the car, but it was definitely attached in some older pics. Is it possible for these things to get blown off and will the car run without one leading spark plug? Also noticed the noise is definitely coming from the steering - it creaks when the direction is changed drastically. There are a number of possible prognoses, but it's definitely not the steering fluid.
 
mine made noise when the clutch was out as well however it went away the longer i had it. my guess is its probably the throw out bearing.

the front end creak i would guess is going to be those 20yr old bushings
 
Shadow102 said:
mine made noise when the clutch was out as well however it went away the longer i had it. my guess is its probably the throw out bearing.

the front end creak i would guess is going to be those 20yr old bushings
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Throw out bearing was my thought as well. It'll probably quiet out a little with the transmission fluid change. Hell, with only ~100k miles it's likely still the stock clutch. I just didn't want to change it until I figured out what direction I was going to go with the car. I'm pretty sure I want to pick up an S5 TII transmission, driveshaft, rear end, etc. with an S6 rear differential and S4 stub shafts (I think those will work). I just don't know what all else needs to get replaced (I know the starter is one). I've been thinking more and more about a 13B-REW swap lately...

As for the steering, I guess it could be the bushings, and those will get replaced eventually anyway. I just find it strange it started happening literally overnight.
 
So today I decided to tackle the door locks and windshield wiper relays. I was only able to get the driver's door lock replaced as it took me about two hours to figure out the procedure to remove the lock and then about another 30 minutes to figure out how to put everything back together. After that it started to rain so the passenger's door will have to wait until tomorrow.

After that I took the wiper switch inside to desolder the old relays and install the new ones. About two hours later I have the #1 and #3 relays replaced and everything looks good. I go out and plug the switch back in to test and sure enough, I have a functioning rear wiper again and the front wipers now park instead of staying put. However, the intermittant and high speeds still do not work. I can hear the relays clicking over but I get nothing. Is it possible the wiper motor isn't functioning on those speeds? I am by no means an electrician so I'm looking for some advice here...

EDIT: Looks like I damaged the PCB board (looked on "another" forum). I looked on the old relays and it looks like some of the copper "collars" came off with the old relays. So even though I have more functionality than before but it appears I'll never have fully functioning wipers with this switch and now I need to find another...
 
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There is a U-pull junkyard down here in Ky that I frequent looking for stuff for my 1st gen. It's called Bessler's, they are located not far off I-275. They usually have one or two 2nd gens, you could probably get the wiper switch from there.
 
I ended up giving the guys at Apex Auto Parts a call and sure enough, they had one rebuild wiper switch left. They gave me an offer I could not refuse on the switch and I also ended up picking up some new headlight trim (as my headlights are missing the upper piece from some reason). I tested the switch this morning and everything looks good (just need to adjust the wipers). Hopefully on Friday my interior trim panels will arrive from Mazdatrix and I can put the whole thing back together and for the first time I will have a fully-functioning RX-7!
 
The car is finally all back together! New defroster vents and windshield wipers went in today and the car was thoroughly vacuumed. It's finally beginning to look normal again. All that's left to do-away-with are the yellow calipers and brake hubs. Still getting a grinding noise while turning but other than that everything is functioning perfectly. Aesthetically speaking, the only big things are the brake calipers and the driver's headlight (not so sure how to fix that one).
 
Shadow102 said:
i must have missed it but whats up with the drivers headlight?
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There's a picture on the first page showing that is doesn't sit flush with the hood. Also, when open, there is a very large gap between the upper and lower plastic trim pieces. I thought I might just have to adjust the headlight but the second condition seems to indicate something else is up. I'll try to take a picture to show what I mean.
 
3rd post updated again. Got the transmission and differential fluid changed today - what a messy job that was. Went with Redline MT-90 for the transmission and 75W-90 Gear Oil for the differential. I really need to do a coolant flush but I don't know where I can dispose of the used coolant. I have the anti-freeze and distilled water ready for mixing too...

On another note I been weighing heavily on two routes to take with the engine. Both require ditching the current motor ironically enough.

Option 1:
-Swap in 13B-RE (JDM Cosmo 2-rotor engine)
-Moderate Streetport
-Large-ish single turbo
-Requires TII Trans/Diff/etc.
~400 whp
~$19,000 total

Option 2:
-Swap in 4-port motor, but keep current rotating assembly (e-shaft, 9.7:1 comp. rotors, etc.)
-Bridgeport
-ITB's
-Questionable Driveability
~200+ whp (?)
~$16,000 total

Of course there's a lot of other things I haven't listed and many are common to both lists (suspension and standalone ECU, for example), but that's pretty much the gist of it.
 
How about a nice 20B swap. I have seen a few for about $3500 with ecu.
 
Wagonbacker9 said:
uh....... duh? 3K for 1.5-2x the power? why the hell not?
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That's what I initially thought but those numbers are by no means concrete. The single turbo, 13B-RE example I was using was Banzai Racing's and they put out just over 400 whp at 16 psi but I've seen numbers in the high 300's as well (386 whp comes to mind). Just like with the Proteges big time N/A builds are rare so the obtainable power is really unknown. I have read of 225+ whp on moderate N/A builds (bridgeports and modified ECU's) but nothing with bridgeport + ITB's + full standalone, etc. Either way, neither is going to be happening any time soon.
ogsp5 said:
How about a nice 20B swap. I have seen a few for about $3500 with ecu.
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Well yeah, $3500 for the engine, but the ECU is pointless (all Cosmos were auto's). However, from what I have read, the basic cost for a 20B swap is $20k (give or take, single turbo or N/A) based on everything else that is required.
 
Look in the Florida section. Some nice pictures of RX7,s with 20B engines and some large T70 and T80 turbos. There was even a RX7 with a 2J motor. ( South Florida Epic Meet)
 
ogsp5 said:
Look in the Florida section. Some nice pictures of RX7,s with 20B engines and some large T70 and T80 turbos. There was even a RX7 with a 2J motor. ( South Florida Epic Meet)
Click to expand...
I'm not saying it isn't possible but that is well outside of what I want to spend on this car (not looking to go above $20k, really). I know a guy back in VA who's putting a 2JZ motor in a later model Efini RX-7 (FD) as well. Personally, I can't fathom putting a Toyota motor in a Mazda, but it's not my car. I'm likely going to stay N/A with a 4-port, bridgeported motor with RX-8 rotors (10:1 compression) and ITB's. Should be enough for 250 whp or so with great throttle response and a killer sound. Not to mention still cheaper than a single turbo 13B-RE or 20B.
 
Cool. When you are ready let me know I have someone that can get you the ITB's for a good price. Plus it is not the cheap knock off china crap.
 
ogsp5 said:
Cool. When you are ready let me know I have someone that can get you the ITB's for a good price. Plus it is not the cheap knock off china crap.
Click to expand...
Who's he a dealer for? I've been looking into either TWM or EFI Hardware who both have ITB setups for the Mazda 2-rotor. All I have to source is a Weber IDA-style intake manifold, which isn't hard to find (Racing Beat makes one). I have not priced out TWM yet but the EFI Hardware kit will be about $1000 with all the options needed (cable pull, TPS shaft, vacuum manifold, etc.). I expect TWM to be a little more expensive but I do know a semi-local shop who deals with them.
 
Call Mack at Emerald Performance. He is a dealer for Jen-Vey ITB's . Phone# 954-682-7281 or 954-578-0465. Just let him know what type of set up want.
 
Nothing new to update. The wife is making me spend all my money on the new house. The transmission is still noisy and the suspension still crunches loudly when turning/accelerating/braking but other than that everything is good. Just crossed 100k two days ago too :(

On the other hand I'm possibly in the works of picking up another (albeit non-working) RX-7. Another member here knows the owner and says the car has a hood scoop. Possible TII find (sweetness!) so depending on the condition I will be either be building that one up and lightly modding the current, or a I will scavange whichever is the worse and use its parts for the other.
 
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